AC Locked UP

GMAN

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There is this guy i know who has a 96 Mark, and the AC has locked up. The AC shop quoted him $700 to fix and replace the compressor. What will they be doing for that price? If the compressor is locked up, will replacing the compressor and charging it again fix this. I told him i could do it for $500. What else would need to be done?
 
I think either PonyFreak or Jeremi posted up a used compressor for sale for $50 plus shipping. I'd do that and then get a recharge.
 
I would think that would include evacuating and recharging the system, then r&r the compressor. Don't know what else. Maybe leak testing. Seems like a lot though, but I don't know the price of the compressor.
 
The AC shop told this guy that they would replace the acumulator and the drier as well. I take it these don't need to be done? Replacing the compressor should do the trick?
 
The AC shop told this guy that they would replace the acumulator and the drier as well. I take it these don't need to be done? Replacing the compressor should do the trick?

when you have a compressor failure you need to replace accum,and drier and flush system,to make sure no metal from old comp,is in there or you will toast the new comp.
any respesctable shop would do that,they dont want you coming back in a week with no a/c

.not sure on prie though,as i have never had a shop do that replacement,but tell him to get all that done to be sure
 
Yep I forgot about the accumulator. Isn't the accumulator and the drier the same part? The accumulator has the dessicant in it, which is the drying portion of the system. Probably replace the orifice tube as well I would think.
 
yes ,your right same parts,some shops will eplace the condensor if they fear "shrapnel" is clogged in there too.
 
Acumilator is on the low side, filter drier is on the high side. You will only have one of them however. The mark has an acumilator. Standard practice is to replace the acumilator/filter drier and orifice tube when a compressor has went bad. If the compressor seals got chewed up and got into the system then it's a real mess! If your not a pretty good A/C tech then I might let a shop do it just in case.
 
Acumilator is on the low side, filter drier is on the high side. You will only have one of them however. The mark has an acumilator. Standard practice is to replace the acumilator/filter drier and orifice tube when a compressor has went bad. If the compressor seals got chewed up and got into the system then it's a real mess! If your not a pretty good A/C tech then I might let a shop do it just in case.


No kidding, I had this happen in our old ''92 Grand Marque (police packaged with R-12) and it took over a year. The shop ended up replacing all the lines, evap, acumilator and the compressor - all at their cost because all they did the first time was do the compressor and did a recharge.
The compressor blew a week later, they put a new compressor in - it blew in a month then they did a new compressor and acumilator, it lasted 6-7 months then it blew again so they replaced everything and converted to R-134. they later determined it was seal particals that made the mess.

The R-134 never did cool the same as R-12.
 
The R-134 never did cool the same as R-12.

i agree,in most cases converting r-12 system to r134 doesnt work as well,but my mom had a 1985 tbird that got converted to r134 when she still had it and holy crap did that get cold,on the hottest days (95 degrees plus) it still blew 35 to 38 degrees at the center register,her r12 was 40 plus degrees,thats the best conversion temps i ever saw for 134a,everything must have been right for it to work better than r12,otherwise like you said,r12 worked better,i think new cars do a good job with 134,now they want to switch a/c over to CO2 under very high pressure,no retro converting there.:mad:
 
Some R-12 systems will take the conversion better than others. R134a needs a larger condensor area to be effecient. I have converted cars that were ok, and others that would get as cold as R-12. I just used my last can of R-12 on my buddys vette. I've had that can for quite a few years. For now on I will just convert everything over to R134a or freeze 12.

You guys like how the price of R134a is starting to creep up there? Hope it doesn't reach crazy $800 per 30 pounder some day.
 

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