AC Issues

V8inMA

V8inMA

Active LVC Member
Joined
Jun 9, 2005
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Location
South Hadley
2006 V8

My AC has had a leak the past few years but I don't drive the car all that often so in the spring I would have the shop just add R134A and it usually lasted all summer. This year I decided I would take the plunge and get it fixed correctly. Initially they put dye in it to trace the leak and determined it was the compressor so last month they replaced the compressor/clutch/drier/accum. All was good for about 2 days and then I started to hear the dreaded hiss and it was no longer blowing cold air. So I brought it back, they added more dye and I am driving it for a few weeks and will be bringing it back for them to take another look. They mentioned the next step is they may need to take apart the dash.

I guess I am asking for help with a couple of things - 1 What else should they be checking? 2. If they do end up taking the dash apart are there other non AC related items I should get replaced while they have it apart?
 
V8inMA said:
2006 V8

My AC has had a leak the past few years but I don't drive the car all that often so in the spring I would have the shop just add R134A and it usually lasted all summer. This year I decided I would take the plunge and get it fixed correctly. Initially they put dye in it to trace the leak and determined it was the compressor so last month they replaced the compressor/clutch/drier/accum. All was good for about 2 days and then I started to hear the dreaded hiss and it was no longer blowing cold air. So I brought it back, they added more dye and I am driving it for a few weeks and will be bringing it back for them to take another look. They mentioned the next step is they may need to take apart the dash.

I guess I am asking for help with a couple of things - 1 What else should they be checking? 2. If they do end up taking the dash apart are there other non AC related items I should get replaced while they have it apart?
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You might want to find a good shop to take it to and have them check it out. They do have a tool that can go in the vent and determine if the valve inside the dash is leaking. Find a few shops to have it checked out this time of year many do free AC checks.
 
Find a better shop!
The most common leak is the seal on the scroll control valve on the back of the compressor. It's a $15 part instead of the cost of a compressor, and can be done with the compressor still on the car.
The second most common leaks are the low side and high side ports.
When you go back, they will likely see dye on the hoses (a tiny bit does out-gas) and may claim that you need the hoses, or they may claim that you need the manifold if the low side port is leaking. You don't, you would need just the Schrader valve core.
Evaporator and expansion valve leaks seem to be very rare, so I would not expect it to be in the dash.
 
Thanks for the replies guys. I don't think they are purposely trying to have me replace things that might not need replacing. I think its just a lack of knowledge about the LS. Unfortunately I think I am going to have that problem with most of the shops around where I live.
 
V8inMA said:
Thanks for the replies guys. I don't think they are purposely trying to have me replace things that might not need replacing. I think its just a lack of knowledge about the LS. Unfortunately I think I am going to have that problem with most of the shops around where I live.
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See if you can find one with Jaguar experience.
 
Thank you for the suggestion. I was able to find a jaguar repaid facility not too far away, not open today but will give them a call on Monday to see if they can help.
 
joegr said:
See if you can find one with Jaguar experience.
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Hopefully, he has better luck with Jaguar shops because I know around here they still won't touch the LS for some reason. I know none of them have helped me for anything even when I was considering new shocks on my old LS doing Jaguar parts and for other things I have had issues with.
 
DaleGrib said:
Hopefully, he has better luck with Jaguar shops because I know around here they still won't touch the LS for some reason. I know none of them have helped me for anything even when I was considering new shocks on my old LS doing Jaguar parts and for other things I have had issues with.
Click to expand...
go ask on the jaguar forums for anybody local to you.

bob (motorcarman) is like 4 hours away from you. he was a dealer tech when the original s-type was new
 
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Hey guys I also have this A/C issue and all fingers point to the dash. Really how hard is it to fix I have no place around here I will trust with my LS so if it has to be done I'll be doing it
 
What do mean the dash? Is the evaporator or expansion valve leaking?
It's a big job to remove the dash and lots of plastic stuff to break. I would make VERY sure that's where the problem is.

Can you DIY the repair?
What have you done so far?
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Larry85326 said:
Hey guys I also have this A/C issue and all fingers point to the dash. Really how hard is it to fix I have no place around here I will trust with my LS so if it has to be done I'll be doing it
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If you tear the dash apart... take a lot of pictures as you disassemble. Also keep track of where bolts and nuts come from, (location), by "bag and tag".
 
Often, they will say that it must be under the dash if they don't find the leak anywhere, since they can't see it in there. I think that they are often wrong on this.
 
04_Sport_LS said:
If you tear the dash apart... take a lot of pictures as you disassemble. Also keep track of where bolts and nuts come from, (location), by "bag and tag".
Click to expand...
What else can it be I really don't want to be taking things apart if I don't need to ,this is my daily driver and I don't have a garage to do work in the blue valve says it's over charged and the ref side also we vacuumed R134 out and still both show the a/c is over charged the compressor froze up and we switched it out and filled the system and still we will get cooler air for a few minutes then it's hot air I want to this fixed as soon as possible being as I live in Az and it's getting in to 110 115 degree temps and I work out doors as it is I been told so many things that it can be or should be but no body is 100 sure and I do understand it's a guessing game unless you are looking right at it I would like to just start with what would be cheapest and easiest I just can't drive it like this it's so hot and don't help when I get pointed in 15 directions with really no hope just a poke in the dark
 
joegr said:
Often, they will say that it must be under the dash if they don't find the leak anywhere, since they can't see it in there. I think that they are often wrong on this.
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Can you give any advice as to anything else this could be I really can't afford to take my car apart for no reason
 
Larry85326 said:
What else can it be I really don't want to be taking things apart if I don't need to ,this is my daily driver and I don't have a garage to do work in the blue valve says it's over charged and the ref side also we vacuumed R134 out and still both show the a/c is over charged the compressor froze up and we switched it out and filled the system and still we will get cooler air for a few minutes then it's hot air I want to this fixed as soon as possible being as I live in Az and it's getting in to 110 115 degree temps and I work out doors as it is I been told so many things that it can be or should be but no body is 100 sure and I do understand it's a guessing game unless you are looking right at it I would like to just start with what would be cheapest and easiest I just can't drive it like this it's so hot and don't help when I get pointed in 15 directions with really no hope just a poke in the dark
Click to expand...

Trying to parse this...

....the blue valve says it's over charged and the ref side also we vacuumed R134 out and still both show the a/c is over charged...

This is impossible by definition. Either you pulled a vacuum or you didn't. It's also very difficult to tell if a system is overcharged without knowing (all at the same time), the low side pressure, the high side pressure, and the exterior temperature.

the compressor froze up and we switched it out and filled the system and still we will get cooler air for a few minutes then it's hot air...

So, the compressor seized and you replaced it. You didn't replace the condenser (can't flush those) and the dryer? You didn't fully flush the hoses, evaporator, and expansion valve?

You have to do all of that, and replace your new compressor, because it is toast now.

I want to this fixed as soon as possible being as I live in Az and it's getting in to 110 115 degree temps and I work out doors as it is I been told so many things that it can be or should be but no body is 100 sure and I do understand it's a guessing game unless you are looking right at it I would like to just start with what would be cheapest and easiest I just can't drive it like this it's so hot and don't help when I get pointed in 15 directions with really no hope just a poke in the dark

No offense, but if you don't know about AC systems (and you don't), then it is hopeless for you to be messing with this one! You are left with the choices of replace the car, or take it to a good AC shop and pay what is likely to be a pretty high bill for them to fix it correctly.

Sorry...
 
On the Arizona car, it almost sounds like you may have a bad DCCV which is allowing heat to flow through the heater core, which neutralizes any refrigeration action.

Anyone else working on finding tough leaks: Buy a refrigerant sniffer and learn how to use it. I've found plenty of leaks with mine and never had to use dye before. And if you think it is leaking in the evaporator inside the dash, that's pretty easy to rule in or out with a sniffer doing sampling of the air coming through the dash vents. These leak detector sniffers are super sensitive. You just slowly follow all of the piping and listen for the tone that indicates a leak. It will go wild when it is over the leak. Electronic Refrigerant Leak Detector
 
milehighmikey said:
On the Arizona car, it almost sounds like you may have a bad DCCV which is allowing heat to flow through the heater core, which neutralizes any refrigeration action.

Anyone else working on finding tough leaks: Buy a refrigerant sniffer and learn how to use it. I've found plenty of leaks with mine and never had to use dye before. And if you think it is leaking in the evaporator inside the dash, that's pretty easy to rule in or out with a sniffer doing sampling of the air coming through the dash vents. These leak detector sniffers are super sensitive. You just slowly follow all of the piping and listen for the tone that indicates a leak. It will go wild when it is over the leak. Electronic Refrigerant Leak Detector
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That would be great because I really don't want to take out the dash in 120 degree heat right now. We did try to vacuum out some of the system but still says it is over charged. Right now I'd kill to have even a little cool air in the car . When we swapped out compressors we got a little cool air but it didn't last very long.
 
Larry please help us to help you??
Joegr has asked several questions with no answers back?

You can't tell if the system is overcharged unless you vacuum it down and weigh how much refrigerant comes out. Same with filling. How much did you put in? What are your low and high side pressure readings? What is the outside temperature when you take these pressures? When you replaced the compressor was it new? What did the inside of the old compressor look like. Why did you not change the dryer at the same time, it is required? Same with flushing the system as Joegr has pointed out.

This ALL matters a great deal if you want an operational AC system. It's not hard or complicated but it MUST be done correctly!

We can't really help without good descriptions of the problems and what exactly you have done so far.
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Thinking about this... if the system truely is overcharged... then the high pressure cutoff switch is most likely preventing the compressor from cycling.

That may be why Larry is feeling cool air when the system first starts... but then cuts out.
joegr said:
So, the compressor seized and you replaced it. You didn't replace the condenser (can't flush those) and the dryer? You didn't fully flush the hoses, evaporator, and expansion valve?
Click to expand...

However... this is most likely the bigger issue. Debris in the system.
 
04_Sport_LS said:
Possibly... yes. Depends on how long it takes for the cold air to go warm.
Click to expand...
I was thinking that it might be the amount of time that it takes to get the engine warm lol. OP is scant on details, which helps to pull nearly every single potential fix out of our brains. I like your high pressure cutout theory.
 
joegr said:
Trying to parse this...

....the blue valve says it's over charged and the ref side also we vacuumed R134 out and still both show the a/c is over charged...

This is impossible by definition. Either you pulled a vacuum or you didn't. It's also very difficult to tell if a system is overcharged without knowing (all at the same time), the low side pressure, the high side pressure, and the exterior temperature.

the compressor froze up and we switched it out and filled the system and still we will get cooler air for a few minutes then it's hot air...

So, the compressor seized and you replaced it. You didn't replace the condenser (can't flush those) and the dryer? You didn't fully flush the hoses, evaporator, and expansion valve?

You have to do all of that, and replace your new compressor, because it is toast now.

I want to this fixed as soon as possible being as I live in Az and it's getting in to 110 115 degree temps and I work out doors as it is I been told so many things that it can be or should be but no body is 100 sure and I do understand it's a guessing game unless you are looking right at it I would like to just start with what would be cheapest and easiest I just can't drive it like this it's so hot and don't help when I get pointed in 15 directions with really no hope just a poke in the dark

No offense, but if you don't know about AC systems (and you don't), then it is hopeless for you to be messing with this one! You are left with the choices of replace the car, or take it to a good AC shop and pay what is likely to be a pretty high bill for them to fix it correctly.

Sorry...
Click to expand...
Ok im going to try to answer as best as i can here first i had 3 people work on this and i dont think either of them knew what the heck was going on. I had ice cold a/c in the morning and it hit 100 before noon and on the way home i got nothing for. Air pump was not engaugeing busted the drive belt short on cash i took the pump from my 04 LS V6 (BTW I have 2 LSes A 01 V8 and a 04 V6.) swaped them both out donor pump was bout about a 12 or 13 months old worked greaat for a month then it sat until i pulled it off one car and replaced on the other car. 1-45 hours later. helper started the car and ran air for 30 minutes or so . The system was never vacumed as of then. (Mistake #1) first HVAC buddy did not have his scale to weight out the freon about 2 oz. of oiil was on the floor outside temp was 95 degrees or so. Blew cold air for maybe an hour then went hot again. blue side was cold and gauge was 100 psi give or take red gauge was HOT and read about 150 175 psi. (Mistake #2 ) Second Shade tree HVAC guy vacumed system 15 20 minutes not sure what amount he got out but put 2 HUGH cans of freon blue side was cold again 200 psi and red HOT as H33L 175 250 psi look warm air for 30 minutes then hot (Mistake #3) back at work the next morning My co worker went ot play with it and add 1 MORE huge can in and its never been hot again. UNTIL this morning about a week now has past. I hit the Auto button and slowly itgot cold been like that for 2 days now and all this time temp has been between 110 at night and 125 day time. I have picked up a drier just installing after i get home this posted . this is where Im at with it if its messed up i guess ill need to start getting the cash to replace the system .I will not give up this car I have grown very atached to this car. I know I should of never trusted anybody to touch my car unless they have a big L tattooed on thier chest. But if i need to it wuill be replaced you cant own a Lincoln LS with outr air.. Sorry about the long drawn out story but that is where im at with this car hope i answered at least 1 question for you.
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