A/V kid

washin34

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With the factory radio I could take my key out of the igntion and the radio would still play. After getting my pioneer installed it doesn't do that. Was it the install or the head unit?

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Why does it need to play when the key is not in the ignition?
 
The factory radio handled the "continued audio" feature, and the red accessory wire in the harness doesn't support it.

However, there is a way to get that feature to work again. You're going to have to tap into another wire, and IIRC I think it's near the rear deck. Joegr or 1LoudLS can probably tell you which wire it is and exactly where to find it.

I opted not to do it when I did my F90BT install. It wasn't worth the extra hassle for me to have that work for the little time I'm not opening the door after shutting the ignition off.

TRU
 
You mean for the DVD to play while you are driving or the radio to play? There are bypass switches you can buy for about 14.00 bucks for the DVD. And it might be a saftey feature on the radio not to play while the keys are out.
 
avic411.com will tell you how to do it. You have to move the mute wire in the harness to another pin. That is, if that's the radio you have that's in the picture. Mine is the same thing and plays fine while driving with this "mod".
 
Guess I misunderstood the OP. I thought he just wanted the audio to continue after the ignition was turned off and the door wasn't opened.

If the OP really wanted DVD/Video functionality while the car is moving, then I agree with NYC to go to avic411.com. Pick your radio series' forum and search on the hardware bypass. It is easy to do.

TRU
 
Just make sure you don't get caught. having video playing in the front seat while driving is a felony in some states.

I was pulled over twice for no front plate. I had to switch the screen to display the nav, and buckle my seat belt, before the cop puled me over lol
 
Just make sure you don't get caught. having video playing in the front seat while driving is a felony in some states.

I was pulled over twice for no front plate. I had to switch the screen to display the nav, and buckle my seat belt, before the cop puled me over lol

+1 always buckle your seat belt, thats the first thing they look for, you phuck them up when your wearing it, lol
 
The OP is not talking about the bypass. He is talking/asking about "delayed accessory power."

The factory headunit did the delayed turn off internally. Fortunately, there is still a source of delayed accessory power in the car that you can tap. The delayed line runs to the power window controls, and to the moon roof. The best place that I could find to tap it was at the connector that goes to the moon roof. This connector is found behind the rear passenger side trim over the package tray. The connector and the delayed power wire should be there even if you don't have moon roof. I don't recall which color wire it was, but I could look it up for you.

BTW, I found that even with the delayed turn off, I was often having to turn the key back on because I would forget to put the windows in a vent position until after I opened the driver's door. I solved the problem by rigging up a small circuit that keeps the accessory power on until after I open and then close the driver's door. (I also rigged it to unlock all the doors when I open the driver's door.)
 
+1, RAP (Retained Accessory Power) is a function that is handled by the factory radio, if you want to retain that freature you will need to run a wire from the passanger C pillar up to the radio(the wire in the C pillar is for the RAP wire for the sunroof)

+1 bypass, go to avic411.com, it looks like you have a D3 if so you move your mute wire to the empty pin directly accross from where it is orignally and then ground it and the parking brake wire, if you dont have nav (avh 3100 or somthing like that) it may be differently any your unit may need to "see" ground a few seconds after it starts and cannot be just grounded, a DEI "pulse timer" (528T) will need to be wired in between the parking brake wire and ground

and why is there a yellow arrow in the picture pointing to the front windshield wiper defroster button?

and why is there a border around the radio, i hope to god that the radio is not mounted so far forward that the cage kit with trim ring was not used (at least thats what it looks like in the picture)



(edit) good timing Joe, you just beat me to it
btw Joe, i hate going to grab something mout of the pass side back seat just to find out that i forgot to unlock all the doors and have to walk all the way back around again so i programmed my R/S& Alarm to unlock all of the doors when the key is turned off. what did you use to unlock them by opening the door?
 
Why does it need to play when the key is not in the ignition?

Well, for one thing... If you are using the bluetooth phone interface, your call won't get cut off when you turn the engine off.
 
Joe, that is slick! I would LOVE to know how you did that!

I have having to unlock the car to get into the rear door after getting out of the car. My 98 Regal had a "delayed lock" feature, where the doors would have 10 seconds of unlock time after you hit the remote button so you could open a passenger door without having to unlock the car again. I wish the LS had something similar to that.

TRU
 
Loud, it does indeed look like he used some type of cage around the radio that actually sticks out in front of the face of the nav panel trim. I don't know why that would need to be there. NYC has a D3 and it appears like it's mounted within the nav panel trim just fine.

TRU
 
Joe, that is slick! I would LOVE to know how you did that!...
TRU

With an Atmel ATTiny26 microcontroller, a voltage regulator, some driver chips, a few discrete components, a small custom PCB, and a little bit of assembly coding.
 
Joe, that even makes it slicker, and unfortunately a bit over my head or capability. I can solder, and actually do some programming, but nothing to that extreme.

However, if you're interested in building one of those puppies for an interested party, how much would you charge?


TRU
 
Joe, that even makes it slicker, and unfortunately a bit over my head or capability. I can solder, and actually do some programming, but nothing to that extreme.

However, if you're interested in building one of those puppies for an interested party, how much would you charge?


TRU

I'd have to charge more than it would be worth to you.
 

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