A/c compressor failing?

[nghtshd88]

A/C that was ice cold is basically blowing hot now at idle. As soon as I hit the gas 2k-3k rpms it instantly becomes cold again (not moving so no air coming in). Passenger side is blowing even hotter or warm.

Had the system evac/refill done a few months ago and just had the shop check the levels and top it off today (had small leak at the compressor shaft). Still no difference at idle. I could live with topping it off every now and the but its totally hot or cold on how fast the engine is going now. Before it got bad the belt would jump upon the clutch engaging. That stopped and now here I am.

Im assuming this is likely the compressor and or clutch failing? I'll most likely get a new one due to the small leak but Im not even getting cold air fully charged.

 

[AmsterDutch]

A/C that was ice cold is basically blowing hot now at idle. As soon as I hit the gas 2k-3k rpms it instantly becomes cold again (not moving so no air coming in). Passenger side is blowing even hotter or warm.

Had the system evac/refill done a few months ago and just had the shop check the levels and top it off today (had small leak at the compressor shaft). Still no difference at idle. I could live with topping it off every now and the but its totally hot or cold on how fast the engine is going now. Before it got bad the belt would jump upon the clutch engaging. That stopped and now here I am.

Im assuming this is likely the compressor and or clutch failing? I'll most likely get a new one due to the small leak but Im not even getting cold air fully charged.

I would start with a Auxiliary coolant pump and DCCV...both get gummed up after 10+ years ...when I changed my DCCV last fall I thought what the hell, may as well change the Auxiliary coolant pump since I'm in here ...thank God I did it was so crusty and gummed up from years of heat and what not...almost sandy even ...anyway disregard this post of both are new...as far as brand I went with Gates Auxiliary coolant pump and MotorCraft DCCV

 

[joegr]

I am confused about the aux pump. A failed aux pump could only make it cooler, not warmer.
You have the classic symptom of a failed scroll control valve. That's at the back of the compressor. If you have an OEM compressor, then it may be worth it to get a scroll control valve off of ebay and replace it. If it is aftermarket, then probably better to replace the whole compressor again.

(I am assuming that your engine cooling fan is working.)

 

[nghtshd88]

I replaced dccv aux pump radiator condensor and drier at the same time..

Yes all fans are working but it makes no difference whatsoever.

I rev engine and its icy cold like it use to be before whatever went bad. At idle it blows nothing but hot air..

Well its the Original OEM compressor.. lasted what 18yrs and 125k miles till now.

Four Seasons comes oiled from Rockauto for $219. Think Motorcraft is $290 non oiled.

$22 for scrolle valve: NEW A/C Compressor Mechanical Control Valve & Gasket for Scroll Compressor CV12 | eBay

I doubt it can be removed on this car without removing the compressor itself? That would be too easy.. never knew that this particular compressor had a common weak spot.

I watched one video on LS gen1 ac compressor removal and it said there is one bolt on top that requires cutting a socket to remove.

 

[joegr]

I never had to, but it looked like it was changeable with the compressor on the car on the 2nd gen V8. Note that the system will have to be depressurized to change it, then you will have to pull a full vacuum before adding refrigerant back. It looks like R-134a has gone way up lately.