A/C Compressor Clutch Issue?

[Alvin]

I am having an A/C issue with my 03 LS v6. When my car was driving my a/c blew cold, but would get warm when I would come to a stop. A guy I work with does heating and cooling on the side and told me that my R134a was low and he would add some. Now there is no cold air at all, and the clutch spins for literally a second and then stops. This just keeps cycling over and over. So when the pressure was a little low it mostly worked, but now at the proper pressure, I get nothing but hot air. I can try to adjust the clutch but I am not sure how much to adjust as I don't want to kill the compressor if only the clutch is bad. Or could the issue be a sensor or something else. I did the DATC test both before and after charging the system and did have the code 2477 but the A/C was working with the code. I also disconnected the Evap Discharge Temp Sensor from under the dash, but no change. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks

 

[chris2523]

does the LS have a high pressure switch? did he put too much in?

 

[Alvin]

He said he barely added any but it is possible he added too much I guess. I am not sure about the high pressure switch. I guess I could let some out and see if I get any cold air back.

 

[joegr]

does the LS have a high pressure switch? did he put too much in?

It only has monitoring of the high side pressure. (It does not have a low side switch like most cars.)

It's not the clutch.
There are only a few things that will turn the AC off, and only two that might cause the rapid cycling indicated.

1. Evaporator freezing or bad evap temp sensor.
2. High side pressure going too high - clogged/stuck expansion valve or system overcharged.

You can't charge it just by looking at the low side pressure. You have to look at the low side and high side at the same time to get an idea about what is going on.

 

[Alvin]

I printed off the proper pressure charts from deneau and my buddy is going to vacuum some out and recharge with the High and low sides attached. If I unplug the high pressure sensor, will the system run just so I can verify the issue? And do you know where the high pressure sensor and expansion valve are located? He will be looking at it at lunchtime so I can give feedback. Thanks for your help. It's greatly appreciated!!!

 

[joegr]

I haven't tried it, but I have heard that the AC will operate if the pressure sensor is unplugged.
The expansion valve is under the dash at the firewall. The entire dash (steering column and all) must be removed to get to it.
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/forum/showthread.php?76669-Dash-Board-Removal-Thread

You can't miss the pressure transducer. It's under the hood connected to the AC high side (discharge) line.

 

[Alvin]

So I pulled the sensor and the clutch engaged but I turned the A/C off right away. We checked the low and high side pressure and sure enough the high side was way over the recommended range. After removing enough refrigerant to get the proper pressures, everything works great. Thanks for saving me a bunch of cash with your input. I really appreciate your help!!

 

[LS4me]

Not the clutch, but my compressor is leaking at the front where the two pieces of the case meet. I know I need to replace the compressor, but my question is just how hard is this job? Alldata shows 1.4 hours labor and it doesn't look too bad, EXCEPT for the top two bolts. Anyone done this? How long did it take? Worth the savings?

 

[joegr]

I've replaced the compressor (for the same reason) on the gen II V8. It was not too difficult. I remember that disconnecting one of the refrigerant tubes (other than just at the compressor) made the job easier. I don't remember the top two bolts being a problem. You do have to turn the compressor around a bit to get it out and back in.

 

[LS4me]

I've replaced the compressor (for the same reason) on the gen II V8. It was not too difficult. I remember that disconnecting one of the refrigerant tubes (other than just at the compressor) made the job easier. I don't remember the top two bolts being a problem. You do have to turn the compressor around a bit to get it out and back in.

Thanks. I got a quote of $270 for labor + "freon" to replace the compressor (I don't remember if I mentioned the drier) and refill the system. For that I think I'll just let them hassle with it as I would need to have to pay the $100 or so to refill the system anyway.

 

[LS4me]

Well.........

I got the parts in yesterday and couldn't wait. R&R isn't too awfully bad............. As long as you remember to.........UNPLUG THE COMPRESSOR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! DOH!! Anywho, allowing for the 30-45 minutes of wasted time trying to remove a plugged-in compressor, I would have had the whole job done (including the receiver/dryer) in around 2 hours. Not too bad as Alldata gives 1.4 hours for the compressor alone.

Now it's off to get the system charged.......

 

[RigsLS]

... Now it's off to get the system charged.......

with "freon" ???

 

[joegr]

with "freon" ???

No.
Suva.

Suva = R-134a
Freon = R12

R12 hasn't been used in cars since the mid 90s.

 

[RigsLS]

No.
Suva.

Suva = R-134a
Freon = R12

R12 hasn't been used in cars since the mid 90s.

oh, I know it.

... I got a quote of $270 for labor + "freon" ...

He even knows not to put that stuff in.

 

[INFOOL7]

My AC stopped working and blowing hot air even with the ac off hot air was still wafts out of the vents. It blows the 10A fuse #1 and at the A/C realy I am getting 2.6 ohms but there is some black goo seeping from the clutch. I am planning on replacing the compressor but the hoses are really rusted so It looks like I'll be replacing them as well.

When you say un-plugged do you mean unplug the wire for the compressor clutch?