A/C blowing hot air, intermittent idle jumps, all around weird-ness

der3wuste3fuchs

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Hey guys, so basically **** has been getting real for me. I just got divorced and was about to sell the car when all hell broke loose.

Basically, one night coming home the A/C just randomly stopped working and started blowing out hot air. I then noticed at the same time the engine temperature was climbing high and the temp light came on.

After luckily almost home I made it home and just thought it was a fluke.

I went out to go for a drive the next morning and after the car warmed up the same thing happened. I then messed around with the A/C out of random frustration and found that when the A/C was turned off and the heater was all the way up to 90, that the temperature would go back down and stabilize at normal operating temp (exactly half-way).

I then researched and researched and seeing as I didn't have the same majority of problems that most have with DCCV, etc. I thought maybe I should at least look at the cooling system.

I noticed the rad fluid was quite low so I decided to fill it up. Unfortunately, the engine air bleed is stripped and would absolutely not come out. Ah, now I remembered that I did not perform the coolant refill procedure correctly last time because of that, and that it may be my problem.

So I took it into the Goodyear (basic lube shop) and had them flush the radiator. They annotated that the engine bleed was stuck and I'm not sure if they did it another way or if they somehow used it.

Either way, I turn on the car, start driving and notice the engine temp is fine however the A/C still blows hot air. This is both sides.

This time however, the A/C can be on and set to a cool temperature and the car will not go into overheat mode.

The lube shop guys told me the compressor internally is not working, but they are not specialists and I don't think they know what their talking about.

The fan runs fine

when I tell the climate control to go to, say, full blast 60 degrees, the car fully outputs the POWER that it should, but not the TEMPERATURE.

This leads me to believe that the heater valve is stuck open and will blow this hot air no matter what. I mean hot air, like if it's on 60 degrees and I put my hand in front of it, it could be dangerous at long periods of time.

Also, I do not think it has anything to do with the thermostat since at some point it would stabilize itself on a regular basis (and after having the flush done it does not seem to go up).

However, I've notice the idle is quite rough as well. It did die once today at a stop at idle in park, after that it's just weird intermittent idling. Also, when messing around with the controls sometimes the idle will get jumpy.

Really not sure where to start here, I've been frantically researching this forum and the internet for similar problems but they all have dead ends.

I really do not have the money right now to go get an official ford diagnostic, but I will if I exhaust all my options.

I'm thinking of trying to replace the heater control valve fuse as a first step.

Any ideas? I really appreciate the any help.

Ian
 
So I found the culprit. It was a simple 10 amp AC Clutch fuse located in fuse slot #1 in the right passenger side fuse box under the hood.

That little 10 amp sure caused a slew of problems. I still think my PCV is in need of replacement as the Idle wasn't perfect but much better.

It's sad that shops will just blindly guess without checking the simplest of things. I hope this helps someone further down the road, thanks.

Oh, and I also replaced the AC Clutch relay (#8) in the same fuse box as a precaution. They did carry it at my local O'reilys so always check even if it seems to specific.
 
So I found the culprit. It was a simple 10 amp AC Clutch fuse located in fuse slot #1 in the right passenger side fuse box under the hood.

That little 10 amp sure caused a slew of problems. ...

You're not done yet. That fuse blew because there was a short. That fuse also covers the DCCV. One of the well known failure modes of the DCCV is for it to leak slightly, and the coolant goes into the solenoid coils and corrodes the coil wires. This eventually causes it to short out.
I predict that the fuse will blow again.
 
You're not done yet. That fuse blew because there was a short. That fuse also covers the DCCV. One of the well known failure modes of the DCCV is for it to leak slightly, and the coolant goes into the solenoid coils and corrodes the coil wires. This eventually causes it to short out.
I predict that the fuse will blow again.


Thanks Joe, I assumed it blew because of something linked with overheating in the car. I'll definitely be looking at that next. I'm assuming your saying just go ahead and replace the DCCV? (after testing).
 
You hit in on the hammer. A/C is now exhibiting the usual DCCV issues. Driver's side seems to blow about 90% cold and passenger now blows warm. Won't have time to wait for a replacement order so I'm just going to sell as is. Hope this post helps in the future.

Ian.
 

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