I'm looking for a new car as to my last one was wrecked (Caddy). I'v found a 1993 TC that I was told was in good condition and is for the right price. What should I check when I go to look at it. What problems do these car's normally have? Thanks.
'93 lincoln TC trouble spots?
- Thread starter Insomniac
- Start date
[font=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]From one of my other websites...[/font]
[font=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Common Town Car Problems[/font]
[font=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Air suspension: Air struts are prone to leaks caused by the bag rubbing against the axle or control arm. [/font]
[font=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Alternator belt: The drive-belt tensioner pulley or idler-pulley bearings are apt to make a squealing noise when the engine is started in cold weather. (1993-96)[/font]
[font=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Automatic transmission: Transmission vibration or shudder can be caused by improper transmission fluid. It requires that the transmission fluid (including fluid in the torque converter) be changed frequently (every 20k miles) and that only Mercon fluid be used. (1992-94)[/font]
[font=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Automatic transmission: The transmission may slip and the engine may flare when the transmission shifts into fourth gear, which can often be traced to a bad TR/MLP sensor. (1992-95)[/font]
[font=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Hard starting: The connector at the starter solenoid tends to corrode resulting in a "no-crank" condition. (1991-94)[/font]
[font=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Oil leak: The oil filter may leak due to the oil-pump relief valve sticking. (1991-94)[/font]
[font=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Vehicle noise: A chattering noise that may be felt coming from the rear during tight turns after highway driving is caused by a lack of friction modifier or over-shimming of the clutch packs in the Traction-Lok differential. (1990-96)[/font]
[font=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Vehicle noise: A broken gusset or weld separation at the frame crossmember may cause a rattle from the rear or the car. (1990-92)[/font]
[font=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Common Town Car Problems[/font]
[font=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Air suspension: Air struts are prone to leaks caused by the bag rubbing against the axle or control arm. [/font]
[font=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Alternator belt: The drive-belt tensioner pulley or idler-pulley bearings are apt to make a squealing noise when the engine is started in cold weather. (1993-96)[/font]
[font=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Automatic transmission: Transmission vibration or shudder can be caused by improper transmission fluid. It requires that the transmission fluid (including fluid in the torque converter) be changed frequently (every 20k miles) and that only Mercon fluid be used. (1992-94)[/font]
[font=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Automatic transmission: The transmission may slip and the engine may flare when the transmission shifts into fourth gear, which can often be traced to a bad TR/MLP sensor. (1992-95)[/font]
[font=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Hard starting: The connector at the starter solenoid tends to corrode resulting in a "no-crank" condition. (1991-94)[/font]
[font=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Oil leak: The oil filter may leak due to the oil-pump relief valve sticking. (1991-94)[/font]
[font=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Vehicle noise: A chattering noise that may be felt coming from the rear during tight turns after highway driving is caused by a lack of friction modifier or over-shimming of the clutch packs in the Traction-Lok differential. (1990-96)[/font]
[font=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Vehicle noise: A broken gusset or weld separation at the frame crossmember may cause a rattle from the rear or the car. (1990-92)[/font]
thamarkman
Well-Known LVC Member
Sometimes with the 4.6 the valve seats can leak causing the engine to burn oil and blue smoke will come out of the exhaust. Usually in higher mileage cars. But, I think it has a little bit to do with how you take care of your engine.
92 Arizona Towncar
Active LVC Member
Blue smoke is a COMMON problem. Does not matter how well you maintain the engine. The seals Ford uses just plain sucked when they were installed. it usually start somewhere around 80-100K miles, and it will get worse. While some people say you should change the seals right away, you can wait to change them out. It ranges from 800-1000 to change them , so if you do plan on doing it, remember that you can wait and save up.
Check the lower ball joints and see if they are the originals (flat top no grease fitting) They had a safety recall on these. If they start squeaking you could end up closer to the road than you'd like to be.