5R55S - PCM vs tranny rebuild

[stumpy]

Gentlemen,
I'm back to the hate part of owning this car, and I want some good advice.

2004 v6, 144k on the scoreboard.
All fluids, including transmission was flushed back in 2011 when purchased by dealer around 120k. No clue if previous owner did a flush.
Zero tranny issues until yesterday.
Hard shift from first to second. Drops down from 3rd to 2nd and back to 3rd when accelerating to 55ish.
No issues with reverse shifting or park.

I'm having the exact same symptoms as these two guys have. Both did the work and spent the $$$ and they then found out it was PCM.
http://www.justanswer.com/ford-lincoln/6f4u0-lincoln-ls-2003-licoln-ls-v6-engine-5r55s-transmission-problem.html
http://www.searchautoparts.com/motorage/powertrain-pro/easing-harsh-engagements-lincoln-ls-5r55s

I'm split between changing the solenoids as everyone here tells me, or just getting a new PCM and knocking this out.
I reset the memory and it didn't make a positive difference.
Maybe related: The plugs, coils, and valve gaskets were done about 4000 miles ago. The cat is still weak and throwing a code from the bad burns, but the PCM seemed strong during the past 4000 miles.

 

[joegr]

V6 PCMs do seem to have a higher than expected failure rate...

 

[stumpy]

I think I'm going to try the PCM replacement path.
What are my options in terms of part numbers and years? Can I buy any gen 2 PCM off eBay and get it reflashed or do I need to pull mine first and match some numbers?

Has anyone tried rebuilding a PCM??

 

[joegr]

It needs to be a gen II V6 PCM at the least. Past that, I'm not sure how much will need to match.
Once you change the PCM, the car will not start. If you don't have an advanced scan tool that can enter secure mode on the PCM, you will have to tow the car to a dealer that does. Be sure to take at least two keys with you. (If you don't have two keys, you will have to get another one made first.)

 

[stumpy]

I searched about and found the TSB on PCM programming. It looks like they need both PCMs to make it work:

http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/tsb/tsb/files/042414.pdf

 

[joegr]

I searched about and found the TSB on PCM programming. It looks like they need both PCMs to make it work:

http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/tsb/tsb/files/042414.pdf

That's configuration programming, not PATS security. The PATS marries your keys to your cluster to your PCM. If you ever change out the PCM or the cluster, they have to be married back together. Until that happens, the starter won't even engage. There's no need (or use) to have the old PCM to do the PATS reprogramming.

The configuration programming that they are talking about has to be done if you buy a brand new PCM. It's an optional step if you buy a used PCM from an LS of the same configuration as yours.

 

[stumpy]

I found more info on the PCM's numbers:
Seems like the numbers are for the software/firmware version, and I can just buy whatever is cheapest, as long as I follow the "Update part number" chain

https://www.google.com/#q=LS+site%3Ahttp%3A%2F%2Fwww.obd-ii.biz%2Fford-ecu-info



Here is the info for the Gen 2 v8 3.9:
http://www.obd-ii.biz/ford-ecu-info/hbo_340/
http://www.obd-ii.biz/ford-ecu-info/hbo_360/
http://www.obd-ii.biz/ford-ecu-info/hbo_361/

And the Gen 2 v6 3.0:
http://www.obd-ii.biz/ford-ecu-info/hbo_331/
http://www.obd-ii.biz/ford-ecu-info/hbo_350/
http://www.obd-ii.biz/ford-ecu-info/hbo_351/

Gen 1 v8 3.9:
http://www.obd-ii.biz/ford-ecu-info/ncb_311/

Gen 1 v6 3.0:
http://www.obd-ii.biz/ford-ecu-info/ncb_200/

 

[stumpy]

It was the PCM!
$200 for a dealer to reprogram and $270 for the used PCM

Shifts just as it was, no kicks. I took the old PCM apart. Its made by Motorola. You would think they could design circuits to last the lifetime of the car!

One last issue is the dealer installed remote start isn't working. I might take it back but I don't want to lose the car for another day. Does anyone have the dealer documents on how to program a remote start??

 

[stumpy]

I fixed my own issue. The dealer remote start is not actually a remote, but a "wireless key"
Here is how I added it back:

If you want to add a key....

**You must have two original keys to perform this procedure. If you only have one key, you WILL have to take it to the dealer to get it programmed**

1. Insert and existing (working) key into the ignition cylinder.

2. Turn the ignition cylinder ON (RUN) and back to OFF. Ignition should stay on for at least ONE SECOND.

3. Remove the existing key and, within TEN seconds, insert a second working key and turn it to ON (RUN) and the back OFF. Ignition must be in ON for at least ONE second, but no more than TEN seconds. Remove the key.

4. Insert the new key before TWENTY seconds have elapsed and turn it to ON (RUN). Leave it the ON position for at least ONE second and turn back to OFF.

5. The security light will light up for THREE seconds to indicate that the new key has been successfully programmed.

6. To program additional keys, repeat steps 1 through 5

 

[bluBomber]

It was the PCM!
$200 for a dealer to reprogram and $270 for the used PCM

Shifts just as it was, no kicks. I took the old PCM apart. Its made by Motorola. You would think they could design circuits to last the lifetime of the car!

One last issue is the dealer installed remote start isn't working. I might take it back but I don't want to lose the car for another day. Does anyone have the dealer documents on how to program a remote start??

what was your source for the used PCM?

 

[stumpy]

eBay.com

 

[kb8mgn]

How can you tell if the used pcm is any good? Can the dealer just reflash my pcm to recondition it? Also was it difficult to remove the module? 2002 LS 3.0
Our 2004 Lincoln LS w/102,000 miles has shifting problems such as on occasion slams into 3rd gear or has long hesitation going into drive from reverse or reverse from drive, and also on occasion slips tremendously from 2nd or 3rd to the point of free revving to 3200 or 4000 rpm if you don't catch it then slamming into the next gear. All occasionally unhook the battery for a couple hours and it all goes away for about a week and then it starts the occasional stunts all over again. Could this be related to the t-body? Thanks

 

[joegr]

The only way I know to tell if a used PCM is any good is to install it in the car, marry it to the PATS and your keys, and try it out.
The dealer can "FLASH" the correct calibration into it for the configuration of your car, but the PCM still has to be the correct one for your specific LS. FLASHING (which is reprogramming certain of the FLASH memory in the PCM) does not recondition it in any way that I can think of.
While your problems could be the PCM, they are still more likely to be mechanical problems in the transmission (solenoid assembly, servo bores, valve body, fluid, ...). The 04s did go out with defective fluid. Do you know if yours had the recall applied to it when the recall came out? (It was to add a particular additive to the fluid. It would be too late to do now.) I went through that with my 04, and still had to replace the solenoid assembly and the fluid.

Also, the PCM is fairly easy to change out, physically. You do need a special scan tool and a ten minute procedure to setup the security so that the car can be started again.

 

[kevinspann]

Somewhat easy. You have to remove the inside of the glove box, and remove two bolts on the inside that hold the PCM in...and also remove the cowling, and all of the plastic parts that house the cabin air filter. Then there are 3 connectors with 10mm bolts in them, and two nuts, one of which doesn't come all of the way off without being able to push the PCM assembly 'in' towards the inside of the car due to interference from an A/C line. It was a bit more involved than I imagined.

 

[jrand]

All occasionally unhook the battery for a couple hours and it all goes away for about a week and then it starts the occasional stunts all over again. Could this be related to the t-body? Thanks

are you following all of the reconnect procedures after you unhook? check the owners manual for the battery reconnect procedure, search the forum for the drive cycle procedure <which will help you clear the hidden p1000 code and get the trannys shift specs set>.

not sure how many miles youre driving in a week, but i bet if you truly had a major mechanical issue that your tranny wouldnt magically fix itself everytime your clear the data on the electronic controllers via a battery disconnect.. you might be looking at an intermittent coil fail, dirty maf, wrong fuel octane, dirty fuel filter, maybe even dirty throttle body yes. just do all of that stuff as basic maintenance and then follow all the directions when you reconnect the battery and it will probably pick up good shift-data and start shifting right again. also remember that the temp has to be above 40 degrees when you run that drive cycle procedure to get it to clear the evap steps correctly.