3.0 & 3.9 coolant parts interchangeable?
- Thread starter 01LS3.9
- Start date
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Go to
https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/
Select an 01 and get the cooling system parts list for the 3.0 and then the 3.9. Compare them to get which parts are the same and which are different.
Off hand, the degas bottles should be the same and the thermostat housings won't be the same.
https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/
Select an 01 and get the cooling system parts list for the 3.0 and then the 3.9. Compare them to get which parts are the same and which are different.
Off hand, the degas bottles should be the same and the thermostat housings won't be the same.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
The drain plug is at the bottom, passenger side of the radiator. You don't have to remove it all the way. When you close it back, just put it back barely over hand tight. Otherwise, you will break it. (The tightness does not make the seal, it just keeps it from vibrating open.)
Ok, Joe, I followed the directions. The air never got "hot". It got warm but that's it. And I had it up to 90. It didn't overheat...yet, so that's a good sign I guess.
Have you heard of Bar's radiator stop leak? Should I use this? And it says to put directly in the radiator. I don't see a radiator full cap so should I put it in the Degas instead?
Have you heard of Bar's radiator stop leak? Should I use this? And it says to put directly in the radiator. I don't see a radiator full cap so should I put it in the Degas instead?
oddball
Dedicated LVC Member
Do not use the stop leak. That is not your problem, and that product (and all similar products) will cause significant problems on their own.
Try the bleed procedure again, and make sure to follow it *precisely*.
When I replaced a whole bunch of parts there were some stubborn bubbles. I parked facing downhill slightly which helped. One time I simply could not get it to flush out, so I R&R'd the thermostat. The next time went properly.
Try the bleed procedure again, and make sure to follow it *precisely*.
When I replaced a whole bunch of parts there were some stubborn bubbles. I parked facing downhill slightly which helped. One time I simply could not get it to flush out, so I R&R'd the thermostat. The next time went properly.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Stop leak will not fix anything. The problem is that the plastic parts basically rot and start seeping coolant out and air in here and there. I know of one or two that tried stop leak and it left a coating inside the engine that caused them no end of trouble.
Note that the bleed procedure has to be followed to the letter, including having the heater bleed open while adding coolant to begin with. If you don't have bad plastic (unlikely that you don't) and aren't having other problems, the remaining air should work its way out in a week or so.
Thanks, Joe. I followed everything to all 26 letters! It has since stopped leaking, though it took some time. There was a big puddle at first, then I moved the car. Then a small puddle, then moved. Then drops, then moved. Then nothing. Everything seems good now. Hopefully I won't brake down on my 40+ mile (one way trip) to and from work.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
It doesn't work that way.
If it was leaking, then the leak is still there. Leaks don't heal themselves.
Coolant level still good after a week and change. I'm not sure why I was seeing coolant on the ground the first time and why there hasn't been any since, but that's what happened. Maybe it was from spilled coolant making its way from the top where it was poured, down through the open spaces and onto the ground.