2005 Lincoln LS V8 Problem, Looking For Advice

Lincoln LS

  1. AustinSowinski14

    AustinSowinski14 LVC Member

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    Well as the title says its an 05 LS V8. I was getting the rattle/knock at idle and while driving no matter what and It was on the driver side of the engine. Also Loss of power. Check engine light is on so I got it scanned, came up with all the coils malfunctioning and timing too advanced. Which led me to believe that maybe that timing tensioner that goes out on the first gens went out or timing chain is somehow getting too much slack somewhere. So today I pulled the valve cover off and checked the secondary timing chain tensioner. no slop in the chain and there doesnt seem to be any loss of tension through pushing on the tensioner. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
     
  2. AustinSowinski14

    AustinSowinski14 LVC Member

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    Error Code list is as follows:
    P0-
    355
    356
    355
    356
    011
    351
    352
    353
    354
    357
    358
    I know I repeated the first 4 but thats how it came up on the list. Wasnt too sure if it made much of a difference. Thanks again for any help
     
  3. AustinSowinski14

    AustinSowinski14 LVC Member

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    more information-code P011 points to bank 1 timing too advanced. I currently have both valve covers off. Tensioner on passenger side is completely collapsed and there is no slack in the chain what so ever. Drivers side tensioner is out but when pushed in it seems pressure is getting released.
     
  4. joegr

    joegr Dedicated LVC Member

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    What oil (weight) have you been using?
    Did you check to see if any of the cams could be moved front to back?
    The P035x codes indicate a problem with the primary side of the coils. Have you tried changing the coils? Have you checked the primary wiring? Damage to the engine wiring harness would explain all the codes. It's also possible that you have PCM damage.
     
  5. AustinSowinski14

    AustinSowinski14 LVC Member

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    Hey sorry for delayed response. Have quite a bit going on, I should have thought about it a little more before I just went and replaced the tensioner. The knocking noise is coming from cylinder #6. Here's a link to a video I had posted on YouTube for ease of sharing. https://youtu.be/vyd_tnVTyoQ
    To answer your questions, I have been using mobil1 5w20. I've only done one oil change since I've owned it. When this all started happening I just reached the 5k mark to do another oil change but decided to wait until I fixed this problem. Doesn't sound nor seem like a timing issue, also did not notice any movement in the cams but I'll take a closer look when I get the valve cover off. I have tried unplugging the coils and all that fun stuff but it really doesn't make the sound better or worse but when you get close it's clearly cylinder #6
     
  6. AustinSowinski14

    AustinSowinski14 LVC Member

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    Anyone have any thoughts? I have a suggestion from someone I know but just wanted to get more opinions before I tore it apart again.
     
  7. don-ohio

    don-ohio Banned

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    Well,since no one's daring or believes this to say it.............I'm looking at a broken or loose rod or rod bearing gone. It sounds like the engine did when my step-son blew up his Grandma's AMC.
    I hope that's NOT it,and it's just a strange problem peculiar to OHC engines, but........ how many miles on this engine? don-ohio :)^)
     
  8. FDR

    FDR Dedicated LVC Member

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    That sound hurts me........ Way too loud to be normal OHC sound. I would bet it's rod knock from a spun bearing. I had the same tappety diesel noise when it happened to me. Did you check the oil level? Mine occurred just shy of 5k miles short of my oil change. The oil was low and I believe a hard turn did it in.

    Here's how to check for a spun (obliterated) bearing

    Remove all spark plugs. Mark a soda straw with a bunch of tick marks with a marker. Stick the straw in spark plug #1 (or, if you're positive it's #6, you can start there).

    Turn the crankshaft nut with a 19 or 21mm socket CLOCKWISE as you are facing the engine.

    When the straw stops moving outward, you've reached Top Dead Center. Turn the crank another 1/8 turn or so. The straw should smoothly move down.

    Follow the 3.9's firing order of 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 for fastest results (only 1/4 turn between TDCs)

    If you find a cylinder that seems to have a delay and then a jolt, you've probably found the spun bearing.

    Stick a long screwdriver into the sparkplug hole and push downward, parallel to the sparkplug whole. If you've found your spun bearing, the cylinder will move down a tiny bit from the screwdriver

    Cry



    There are no rebuild parts (besides some racing Jaguar parts for several thousand dollars), the Ford-supplied reman is over $5k, and Jasper won't touch the LS (except apparently they'll sell you a diff for $1.5k). So now you can look at a junkyard, most of which have no idea how many miles are on the engine, eBay, which is significantly more expensive but not awful, selling it for less than $2k, or junking it
     
  9. don-ohio

    don-ohio Banned

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    Yeah,Frank,it seems like every time the power stroke hits,it knocks. About 300 times a minute sounded like to me. I hope it isn't what it sounds like though. don-ohio :)^)
     
  10. AustinSowinski14

    AustinSowinski14 LVC Member

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    If it would be helpful, I could take a video of it rev'ing up. It turns into more of a crackle at high rpms rather than just a sped up steady knock. Thanks for the input guys
     
  11. AustinSowinski14

    AustinSowinski14 LVC Member

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    Also the plan was once I get a chance to tear it apart again I was going to get it to TDC and then push down on the piston to see if there was any movement, just havent gotten there yet. Kinda have no ambition to work on it considering its winter anyway.
     
  12. don-ohio

    don-ohio Banned

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    Don't rev that engine up. Check out the engine first. You could tear it up really bad by continuing to run it. don-ohio :)^)
     
  13. FDR

    FDR Dedicated LVC Member

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    no no no no

    Exactly. And by tear it up, he means wear down the rod and crank until one of them snaps and creates a new oil drain hole in the side of your block

    Do the test I explained before you even crank it again

    Which is pretty close (audibly) to 350beats per minute, maybe even 400bpm, which when you double to account for it being a 4-stroke engine, makes it 600-800rpm, a warm idle speed range.
     
  14. AustinSowinski14

    AustinSowinski14 LVC Member

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    So, did a little prodding around and found the culprit. I believe #7 if I found the correct resource. 3rd cylinder from the front of the car on the drivers side. Got it on the down stroke and it pushed down as if I was pushing down a distributor. Wasnt expecting that much when you said a tiny bit haha.
     
  15. 1LoudLS

    1LoudLS Dedicated LVC Member

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    no es bueno
     
  16. AustinSowinski14

    AustinSowinski14 LVC Member

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    Now my question is, does this pretty much narrow it down to the rod bearing? or is there any other things that would cause that some sort of movement? Only thing I can really think of would be the wrist pin. But as I said, it wasnt the tiny bit that I expected.
     
  17. FDR

    FDR Dedicated LVC Member

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    You can get it to move more if you let the engine run some more if that's what you'd like... heck, you might even to be able to push it a full 3" if you're vigilant enough.

    Don't actually do that.

    You may have caught the problem early enough that there's still some bearing in there. Granted, it doesn't make a difference since once a bearing is damaged, it's as good as nonexistant. The bearings don't really touch the crank. They provide a channel for the high pressure oil to keep a constant film between the two.

    The odds are much greater that it's the rod bearing, not the wrist pin. Regardless, it doesn't matter because damage to either one means the engine comes out (or the car leaves your possession). It's possible to rebuild the engine, but for the cost, it's probably easier to just replace it.

    Then save the old engine to putz with it in your driveway for funsies...
     
  18. AustinSowinski14

    AustinSowinski14 LVC Member

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    So, I just wanted to thank you guys a lot for the help on this, was a bit of a learning experience for me. Another member near me was selling a used v8 that he had sitting around with 35k miles on it. Going to have that put in within the next week and then probably sell the car or trade for a truck. (good thing the car was out of commission most of the winter otherwise I might have been killed haha) Just curious what you guys thought my car would be worth. Odometer says 150k engine is going to have the 3X,XXX miles. minor scratches and what not. LSE package with a new front bumper. heated and cooled seats. Aftermarket double din touchscreen. As it sits right now only thing wrong with it is the engine. What do you think?
     
  19. don-ohio

    don-ohio Banned

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    No way to tell without the replacement having been done. It's gotta run great,no problems. So many times engines are installed and don't quite get matched up right and never get straightened out. So it depends on how good the replacement is. don-ohio :)^)
     
  20. AustinSowinski14

    AustinSowinski14 LVC Member

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    Well, we shall see in a day or 2.
     
  21. AustinSowinski14

    AustinSowinski14 LVC Member

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    Well motor swap is done. Runs great!
     
  22. don-ohio

    don-ohio Banned

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    That's good to hear! Enjoy! don-ohio :)^)
     
  23. AustinSowinski14

    AustinSowinski14 LVC Member

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    Thanks again for all your guys' help. But unfortunately a deal came up on a newer f150 and I had to take it. Being only 19 I would rather not make payments on 3 loans haha. Ill probably put it up on craigslist or maybe on here as well here pretty soon. What is a fair asking price with the details given above and now that it is running?
     

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