2002 V8 LSE Replaced Battery now my car wont start....any advise would be great

AmsterDutch

AmsterDutch

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2002 V8 LSE No codes on Forscan Battery is fully charged and brand new 12.89 Volts ....My LS won't turn over at all...turn key and nothing ...Starter? Kinda weird if it is ...wouldn't it at least make a click click click noise? Haven't tested yet but will ...wanted to say this first...After I turn off the car and wait awhile I hear the normal moaning sound or whatever that is that shuts off but I also hear a high pitch whistle type noise ...that would never do that before ...I listened to the car shut down many times. ...any thoughts what the whistle or high pitch buzz sound is...could this lead me to what is wrong?
 
Well, then it shouldn't be PATS, or the power to the PCM. I'd check for blown fuses and test for power at the starter relay.
 
joegr said:
Well, then it shouldn't be PATS, or the power to the PCM. I'd check for blown fuses and test for power at the starter relay.
Click to expand...
When testing for power at the starter relay do I need to have key in start position or have someone try turning it over when doing a multimeter test? What setting should I put the multimeter? 20v? Also I tested the new battery again and its reading 12.60Volts ...I hooked up my charger on it and the charger started at 25% again? Could it be the new battery is a dud?
 
Have someone holding the key in the start position while you read the voltage across the terminals that would be going to the relay coil.
 
joegr said:
Have someone holding the key in the start position while you read the voltage across the terminals that would be going to the relay coil.
Click to expand...
Test at the starter relay fuse box ...engine compartment...12.64V ...I'm pretty sure you meant the starter solenoid though correct? Also checked all the starter fuses and relays ...PATs fuse ...PCM fuse ...I did get a U code for gear selector error...I'm thinking that might have been a old code stored ...but if I am understanding that code correctly...could it mean the car's transmission could think it's in drive even if it's in park? The dash gear is on P and I did shift it down to neutral and back to Park and tried starting again with no avail...I have a new starter sitting on the shelf I'm just going to throw it on tomorrow and hope for the best
 
No, I did mean the relay. If the relay is really being powered, then it's not the transmission interlock. (Still, did you try starting it in neutral?)
Now, the next step is to check for power at the starter solenoid. If you are getting it there with no sounds, it's failed.
 
joegr said:
No, I did mean the relay. If the relay is really being powered, then it's not the transmission interlock. (Still, did you try starting it in neutral?)
Now, the next step is to check for power at the starter solenoid. If you are getting it there with no sounds, it's failed.
Click to expand...
Okay good I did test the relay and yes I tried starting it in neutral...no go....I will test the solenoid tomorrow...its dark out and unfortunately the car is on the street and not in my garage I am going to test the solenoid in the garage tomorrow...crossing my fingers that is the culprit
 
Starter is replaced same result ...no crank issue the battery goes down to 12.54 when under load and trying to start it
 
Wait, So what went wrong with the diagnosis? What voltages do you get on the B, S, and M terminals while someone holds the key in the start position? Where are you grounding your meter?
 
joegr said:
Wait, So what went wrong with the diagnosis? What voltages do you get on the B, S, and M terminals while someone holds the key in the start position? Where are you grounding your meter?
Click to expand...
B? S? M? You're speaking Greek ...I'm not good at electronics...you have to walk me through this unfortunately...but I'm willing to learn...I put the starter in becausexit has been sitting on my shelf for two years ...I don't want to throw parts at the car....I want to avoid bringing to my mechanic if possible
 
Also with the key in the on position the oil light ...battery light...and air bag light and engine light are on steady ...when I try to start the car all the lights on dash disappear...20 years owning Lincoln LSes and I haven't even paid attention to my car when it was being started...I guess when these cars run good you pay no mind to such things
 
joegr said:
Wait, So what went wrong with the diagnosis? What voltages do you get on the B, S, and M terminals while someone holds the key in the start position? Where are you grounding your meter?
Click to expand...
Mechanically inclined...electronically no so much but I have a multi- meter and I'm willing to work step by step
 
Just so I'm crystal clear with the starter those metal tabs on the wires should be facing the starter correct? I'm probably over thinking things but K don't want to ground out something that shouldn't be or vis versa
 
AmsterDutch said:
Update: The starter cranked over when I jumped power to it ...going into the ignition switch next
Click to expand...

It seems like you are skipping a few steps jumping right to the ignition switch, unless you just didn't mention them.

What happens if you bypass the starter relay?
Have you tried substituting another relay?
Can you hear the relay click when the key is turned to start? (have to listen closely)
Did you do the voltage tests at the starter relay socket?
 
joegr said:
It seems like you are skipping a few steps jumping right to the ignition switch, unless you just didn't mention them.

What happens if you bypass the starter relay?
Have you tried substituting another relay?
Can you hear the relay click when the key is turned to start? (have to listen closely)
Did you do the voltage tests at the starter relay socket?
Click to expand...
Yes I hear the relay click when the key is turned to start...unless that could be the PCM Relay clicking which as you know is right next to the Starter relay...not sure if they both click when the key turns over ...What I do know is that I'm not getting power to the Starter so I jumped it to see if the new starter would crank and it does ...pretty relieved that it's not the engine ...but you're right I have a long list of things to do still before diving straight into the ignition ....just thought it would make sense to see if I'm getting power from the ignition
 
If the starter relay does click, then it is clearly not the ignition switch. Note that the PCM relay should not click when going from run to start, only when going from accessory to run.
If bypassing the starter relay does not activate the starter, then it's not the ignition switch. To bypass, unplug the relay and fold out a paper clip and insert one end in the 87 terminal of the relay socket, and the other in the 30 terminal.
 
joegr said:
If the starter relay does click, then it is clearly not the ignition switch. Note that the PCM relay should not click when going from run to start, only when going from accessory to run.
If bypassing the starter relay does not activate the starter, then it's not the ignition switch. To bypass, unplug the relay and fold out a paper clip and insert one end in the 87 terminal of the relay socket, and the other in the 30 terminal.
Click to expand...
Update: after removing the panels under dash I found the previous owner(s) installed a remote start ...just got done ripping it out and the car has started about a dozen times :confused:
 
Good job! Remote start hardware can really mess things up! Glad you were able to get it back to stock!
 
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