From the day I obtained this vehicle it’s always been slow to start, which I believe is an issue with the fuel pump but it had always started. Recently, it began to not start on occasion. Always later that day, when I returned to the vehicle it started. Eventually I had it towed to a Ford dealer so I could fix it once and for all. Of course, once at the dealer, it started and wouldn't duplicate the issue. I fully explained what was happening to the service department and the following was check or replaced:
Bad battery - check by dealer to be fully functioning
computer putting out a code for a bad fuel injector - once dealer got into the engine, injectors all tested in good condition but they found several bad coil packs. They replaced coil packs and plugs. They stated it was ready to pick up.
After paying for my repairs, I attempted to start and leave with my vehicle but it would not fully turn over. Dealer began further testing.
They created two additional keys but that didn't resolve the issue. Then they contacted the engineers at Ford. Ford said it was the PCM. Dealer diagreed and researched the issue on a Ford Forum like this. Responses stated issue was electrical wiring. Said they discovered a bad wire, replaced it and told me vehicle was ready to pick up.
Went out to my vehicle and it would not start. After several minutes of multiple attempts to start vehicle by myself and the service manager, it started. I decided it might be time to divorce myself from this dealer and left with my LS.
I began my own diagnosis with the assistance of a mechanic savvy friend. We replaced the emergency fuel cut off switch located next to the kick panel on drivers side. No difference. We removed the PCM and opened it to check the seal and the possibility of damage inside. No noticeable damage but the seal seemed worn. Resealed PCM and reinstalled. No difference. Checked all wiring and electrical components in trunk for obvious damage or wear. None found. Because the initial thought by everyone involved was the battery, I replaced the battery just in case it was defective regardless of how it tested. No difference.
Over the past week, I've tried to truly pay attention to what is happening when it does not start and document it via my iPhone since it never want to duplicate it for a dealer/mechanic. Here is a detailed description of exactly what happens:
Most of the time, the LS will start, though delayed, but it will start. When it doesn't start two different seniros can play out. If the PATS light on the dash is flashing non-stop, the engine will start but immediately die. Then it will turn over but never catch fire. All the while, the PATS light is flashing non-stop. I've seen on here where it gives a flashing code. I'll pay attention next time and post the code on here. Seniro 2, when I insert the key there is a tapping or clicking noise that can be heard coming from behind the dash/instrument panel once the key is entered and the first attempt to start is made. When this happens, the PATS light doesn't flash at all and the fog light come on, along with the tail lights and will stay on reguardless if the key is in or not. Occassionally, the noise can be accompanied by the fluttering of the speedometer needle and fuel gauge needle. They move and tap in tune. This happens whether the key is in any position and even if it’s removed from the vehicle all together. After roughly a minute, the needles will start climbing higher until they eventually cycle all the way over and back, then the tapping and needle movement stops. When its only the flashing of the PATS light, after several minutes (not sure exact time) and cycling the key multiple times from off to on but not attempting to start the vehicle, the PATS light will go back to normal, with 3 flashes and then the vehicle will start. Usually this happens in the morning upon the first attempt to start the vehicle or possible just when the vehicle is cold. But without fail, after its starts for the first time of the day, it will successfully start for the remainder of that day. But if the PATS light is not blinking, if its blank, and the tapping noise is heard, it takes much longer for it to stop and a clean start is accomplished.
This morning when attempting to start vehicle, I first turned key to the on position and noticed the PATS light working properly. I decided to cycle the key a few times to build pressure in my fuel pump to hopefully get an immediate start instead of a delayed start. On my first attempt to cycle the key back to the on position, the PATS light did not come back on and the tapping or clicking noise could be heard behind the instrument panel along with tiny quivers of movement with the all gauge needles except for the RPM needle. As always the tapping and needles are in tune. I cycled it over and back several more times over a 10 minute period with the same result. If the key was removed completely, the tapping stopped. Also, like always when this happens with the tapping and NO illumination of the PATS light, the fog lights and tail lights come on and stay on even when the lights are turned off and key is removed. When I turned to key from ON to Start, nothing happens. I disconnected the battery for around 35 minutes to hopefully reset the computer but same things were happening. This is entirely confusing. It appears like the car is bleeding power from the battery to particular components of the vehicle. Possible wire short somewhere? Why won't it at least turn over? Why at other times, the PATS light is flashing continuously but won't catch fire? Very frustrating.
Bad battery - check by dealer to be fully functioning
computer putting out a code for a bad fuel injector - once dealer got into the engine, injectors all tested in good condition but they found several bad coil packs. They replaced coil packs and plugs. They stated it was ready to pick up.
After paying for my repairs, I attempted to start and leave with my vehicle but it would not fully turn over. Dealer began further testing.
They created two additional keys but that didn't resolve the issue. Then they contacted the engineers at Ford. Ford said it was the PCM. Dealer diagreed and researched the issue on a Ford Forum like this. Responses stated issue was electrical wiring. Said they discovered a bad wire, replaced it and told me vehicle was ready to pick up.
Went out to my vehicle and it would not start. After several minutes of multiple attempts to start vehicle by myself and the service manager, it started. I decided it might be time to divorce myself from this dealer and left with my LS.
I began my own diagnosis with the assistance of a mechanic savvy friend. We replaced the emergency fuel cut off switch located next to the kick panel on drivers side. No difference. We removed the PCM and opened it to check the seal and the possibility of damage inside. No noticeable damage but the seal seemed worn. Resealed PCM and reinstalled. No difference. Checked all wiring and electrical components in trunk for obvious damage or wear. None found. Because the initial thought by everyone involved was the battery, I replaced the battery just in case it was defective regardless of how it tested. No difference.
Over the past week, I've tried to truly pay attention to what is happening when it does not start and document it via my iPhone since it never want to duplicate it for a dealer/mechanic. Here is a detailed description of exactly what happens:
Most of the time, the LS will start, though delayed, but it will start. When it doesn't start two different seniros can play out. If the PATS light on the dash is flashing non-stop, the engine will start but immediately die. Then it will turn over but never catch fire. All the while, the PATS light is flashing non-stop. I've seen on here where it gives a flashing code. I'll pay attention next time and post the code on here. Seniro 2, when I insert the key there is a tapping or clicking noise that can be heard coming from behind the dash/instrument panel once the key is entered and the first attempt to start is made. When this happens, the PATS light doesn't flash at all and the fog light come on, along with the tail lights and will stay on reguardless if the key is in or not. Occassionally, the noise can be accompanied by the fluttering of the speedometer needle and fuel gauge needle. They move and tap in tune. This happens whether the key is in any position and even if it’s removed from the vehicle all together. After roughly a minute, the needles will start climbing higher until they eventually cycle all the way over and back, then the tapping and needle movement stops. When its only the flashing of the PATS light, after several minutes (not sure exact time) and cycling the key multiple times from off to on but not attempting to start the vehicle, the PATS light will go back to normal, with 3 flashes and then the vehicle will start. Usually this happens in the morning upon the first attempt to start the vehicle or possible just when the vehicle is cold. But without fail, after its starts for the first time of the day, it will successfully start for the remainder of that day. But if the PATS light is not blinking, if its blank, and the tapping noise is heard, it takes much longer for it to stop and a clean start is accomplished.
This morning when attempting to start vehicle, I first turned key to the on position and noticed the PATS light working properly. I decided to cycle the key a few times to build pressure in my fuel pump to hopefully get an immediate start instead of a delayed start. On my first attempt to cycle the key back to the on position, the PATS light did not come back on and the tapping or clicking noise could be heard behind the instrument panel along with tiny quivers of movement with the all gauge needles except for the RPM needle. As always the tapping and needles are in tune. I cycled it over and back several more times over a 10 minute period with the same result. If the key was removed completely, the tapping stopped. Also, like always when this happens with the tapping and NO illumination of the PATS light, the fog lights and tail lights come on and stay on even when the lights are turned off and key is removed. When I turned to key from ON to Start, nothing happens. I disconnected the battery for around 35 minutes to hopefully reset the computer but same things were happening. This is entirely confusing. It appears like the car is bleeding power from the battery to particular components of the vehicle. Possible wire short somewhere? Why won't it at least turn over? Why at other times, the PATS light is flashing continuously but won't catch fire? Very frustrating.
