2002 Lincoln LSE DOES NOT GO INTO DRIVE OR REVERSE AND JUST ROLLS DOWN MY DRIVEWAY

If they don't know what to do, then you telling them is not likely to help...
Thanks again, people like yourself and grizzlyls are invaluable...that's what it's all about, helping people out...we're all connected in this thing called life. Thank you. Respect.
 
You know what, here is another source you can talk to. valvebodypros.com (408) 287-4500 over in San Jose. I was thinking about contacting them on mine, but wasn't sure when I could get out to them with my work. They may even have a referral for someone in Fresno, those two towns tend to go hand in hand. Half the distance too if you had to go outside.

I found them when I researching and the guy showed testing pcm/solenoid work without hacking up connections. Seems to know his stuff.
 
You know what, here is another source you can talk to. valvebodypros.com (408) 287-4500 over in San Jose. I was thinking about contacting them on mine, but wasn't sure when I could get out to them with my work. They may even have a referral for someone in Fresno, those two towns tend to go hand in hand. Half the distance too if you had to go outside.

I found them when I researching and the guy showed testing pcm/solenoid work without hacking up connections. Seems to know his stuff.
Aweome grizzlyls...can't thank you enough. Hey, if it is in fact a fried tranny...do you think $650 for a used tranny and $500 labor plus fluid is fair?
 
Well the problem I have with that is the potential of $1200 bucks and inheriting some one elses problem. Really I would say it gets down to what really up. Remember, I mentioned AAMCO swore up and down that my tranny was falling apart inside and 'he hated to give me the keys because its like giving them to a drunk driver'. The reality is my tranny was clean, just 15 years had made the control springs weak. Simple repair with $80 parts (labor of course more).

Your best bet is spend the effort to find someone trust worthy, and if they get into it and find the internals are shot then mid 2k price for rebuild is reasonable. That usually has 3 ish year warranty. That would be worse case. You might find like me you would need less than $500.
 
If they don't know what to do, then you telling them is not likely to help...
Just got off the phone with another shop All Valley Transmissions and they stated it would be $99 to check fluid and add if necessary, pull the pan and scan codes. He also said with this tranny that a lot of the time the front solenoid shift pack needs to be repaired at a cost of $900-$1100 or a full rebuild at a cost of $2600-$2700.
 
Okay, how about some background here...
Were you having ever increasing problems with the transmission? If so what where they? Alternately, was the transmission fine the day before it stopped moving at all?
 
All Valley is not bad if they do indeed pull the pan for $99. The other prices seem a smidge high for Fresno, thats what we pay here in LA. Make sure if they do work for you they dont charge $99 and the work. I bet that shop I mentioned before might be a little less, ask him what his charge is for pulling pan only and the other estimates.

Wondering too if you heard any weird noises too day before like a U joint clunking as it gave way..... you would hear things like that.
 
Well the problem I have with that is the potential of $1200 bucks and inheriting some one elses problem. Really I would say it gets down to what really up. Remember, I mentioned AAMCO swore up and down that my tranny was falling apart inside and 'he hated to give me the keys because its like giving them to a drunk driver'. The reality is my tranny was clean, just 15 years had made the control springs weak. Simple repair with $80 parts (labor of course more).

Your best bet is spend the effort to find someone trust worthy, and if they get into it and find the internals are shot then mid 2k price for rebuild is reasonable. That usually has 3 ish year warranty. That would be worse case. You might find like me you would need less than $500.
Forgive me for asking...not mechanically versed or inclined....but if it's a similar issue to yours how will the tech know? by pulling the pan?
 
Okay, how about some background here...
Were you having ever increasing problems with the transmission? If so what where they? Alternately, was the transmission fine the day before it stopped moving at all?
No issues with transmission shifting. Only issue has been with the misfire in cylinder 6 and my Catalyst faults. Transmission was fine night before when I parked it. My driveway is on a slight incline.
 
No issues with transmission shifting. Only issue has been with the misfire in cylinder 6 and my Catalyst faults. Transmission was fine night before when I parked it. My driveway is on a slight incline.

Well, then it's almost certain that your transmission is fine (can be repaired). I would expect some valve body or solenoid issue (or sudden leak that you missed). Get them to check the fluid and drop the pan...
 
Steve stated the $99 would be put towards the job if additional work was needed like the solenoid pack. Is that what you had done?
 
Yours sadly is not like mine - and dozens of others - mine was hard shifts and no upper gear toward the end. Makes it harder to say what yours could be. Pulling the pan is something I got from Joe and guys here and why I didnt go with the AAMCO guy... most often no one can ever say whats wrong until they do. Once they do it reveals alot. If there is a bunch of metal in the pan, that means the inside gears are ground off for example. A lot of something that looks like paper is the bands wore out - and slippage is an issue. Both those mean rebuilds.

My fluid was bright and clean and virtually no metal on the magnet in the pan. My mech even at that point wasnt sure what could be wrong since there was no indication, and it seemed to him the solenoid was good. But I told him your in there, get it done. As it turned out when he pulled the springs, they 'crumbled in his fingers'. So the real issue in my case was a shift kit, but since there was no extra labor involved I put in a new solenoid too, whether the old was bad or not. No reason to pay 2x.

edit: yes thats normal for a mech. The $99 bucks is if you walk away, covers their time.
 
oh And dont drive anymore with that misfire. As joe mentioned that will cause more and expensive damages resulting. Catalytic converters outrageous to replace.
 
Ok, thanks grizzlyls. I'm still up in the air with regards to which shop to take it to. I think when I spoke to Pauls the gentlemen stated that it was $45 to check fluid plus $ for fluid if necessary and $85 to scan and test, but I don't recall him stating the pulling the pan was included.
 
Well, then it's almost certain that your transmission is fine (can be repaired). I would expect some valve body or solenoid issue (or sudden leak that you missed). Get them to check the fluid and drop the pan...

what can I expect to pay for these repairs...ballpark?
 
Try this, go to each one in person. Introduce yourself and just get a feel from the conversation and the look of the shop. That will give you a chance to ask Pauls about pulling the pan too. Go with your gut which is better for you.

edit: My valve body (shift kit) and solenoid was $960. Thats the 900 to 1100 qoute you got i would hope - and thats new parts from transgo and motorcraft, not rebuilt/repaired.
 
Try this, go to each one in person. Introduce yourself and just get a feel from the conversation and the look of the shop. That will give you a chance to ask Pauls about pulling the pan too. Go with your gut which is better for you.

edit: My valve body (shift kit) and solenoid was $960. Thats the 900 to 1100 qoute you got i would hope - and thats new parts from transgo and motorcraft, not rebuilt/repaired.
Ok cool! Great advice!
 
Well, then it's almost certain that your transmission is fine (can be repaired). I would expect some valve body or solenoid issue (or sudden leak that you missed). Get them to check the fluid and drop the pan...
Hey joegr, my car is going towed today to the shop. If by chance the fluid is low and they fill it, should I still ask them to drop the pan as well?
 
If it is low - they need to find the leak.
If filling it restores full (correct) operation, no need to drop the plan unless you want to change the filter (not a bad idea).
 
If it is low - they need to find the leak.
If filling it restores full (correct) operation, no need to drop the plan unless you want to change the filter (not a bad idea).
Ok guys, an update on both shops...

1) Paul's- I just got off of the phone with Paul the owner and he stated the following: A) $85 to diagnose the transmission and run a "scan" and then an additional $45 to check fluid and an additional charge for fluid if needed. DOES NOT INLCUDE DROPPING THE PAN. I asked "what that would cost?" and Paul stated that, "he could usually tell what the issue is without dropping the pan". Paul did sound like he was credible, but I'm just not sure what "scan" he's referring to and why he won't drop the pan to diagnose the transmission thoroughly.

2) All Valley Transmission- $99 to check fluid and drop pan plus additional charge for fluid if needed.

***Both shops stated the diagnosis charge would be applied to any work that was needed.

What do you guys think?
 
Hey joegr, my car is going towed today to the shop. If by chance the fluid is low and they fill it, should I still ask them to drop the pan as well?

What happened to "my car is going towed today to the shop?' We can talk about this endlessly, but you're getting nowhere...
 
What happened to "my car is going towed today to the shop?' We can talk about this endlessly, but you're getting nowhere...
Both shops weren't available until tomorrow, so I called and contacted the owner Paul to ask exactly what his shop did to diagnose the issue.
 

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