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I absolutely agree with Joe ...just out of curiosity what kind of coolant you running in her?
Ordered the thermostat today, will pick up on way home from work and install. I was running the gold coolant but ended up adding Preston all models (saw a post from Joeger saying that was okay).
You're fine with that coolant but you can never go wrong running green in the 1st Gen Lincoln LS
Okay, another new OEM thermostat ($27!) and new gasket ($17!) and no joy. No leaks and bled system as always. Pressure eventually builds up (including upper hose) as temperature increases. Fan is running. Turn heater on and returns to normal. Help
Okay lets start from the beginning...what Plastic parts did you replace on the Cooling system rebuild?
Degas, heater tube (twice), upper and lower hose, and of course thermostat (twice).
how many minutes did you let the system bleed? did you try jacking up the back of the car or drive back wheels on ramps while bleeding the system? I know this sounds crazy but times I had to bleed the air I bled the car for about 30 minutes while refilling Degas bottle when needed...if you think all the air is truly out of the system then A. you have a crack you're unaware of or you may need a new water pump...my money is still on air in system or a crack
Didn't really time it but I watched a video on YouTube as follows; fill system and leave cap off. Run heater. Hold at 2000 rpms for 2 minutes. Let cool and repeat. I did once so far and will do it again later tonight. So just leave the valve open for 30 minutes while refilling Degas? Okay, I know I didn't leave the valve open that long. Will try it.
I usually fill the degas bottle pass the hot fill mark and allow the coolant to drain out of the bleeder hose for 30 minutes ...after 30 minutes I close the bleeder valve and take it out for a drive to make sure the car is staying at a adequate temp ...if the car overheats after bleeding for that long I know I have bigger problems
Okay, will do and hope that solves it. Thanks alot!
Should I run with the heater on?
Okay, bled the system for 30 minutes and same deal. With the heater off and the AC on it eventually overheats. I do hear a gurgling sound near the new Degas bottle after a few minutes of turning off... normal? I also replaced the cap.
Did you replace the plastic crossover tube? https://www.amazon.com/Evan-Fischer-EVA4444011712-Cooling-Thunderbird-Radiator/dp/B07BZD98H4 Another suggestion, make sure your hydraulic fan is operating properly. I recently had to replace the hydraulic pump fan actuator on my 2002 LS.
Yes, replaced that part twice in last 8 months. That is where the coolant was spraying out this last time, right through the front at the passenger side head connection. Fan seems to be operating normally.
Assuming that your AC is working correctly (cools at idle)... Turn the AC off and the car off. Wait until the engine is completely cooled off. Start the car. The fan should be turning slowly (at it's lowest speed). Turn the AC on. In seconds, the fan should speed up to a fairly high speed (not maximum though). Also, when the engine is overheating, the fan should be at maximum. It should be very loud, you should be able to hear it inside the car with the windows closed. Is your overheating only at idle and low speeds, or does it also happen while you are going over 45 MPH?
AC is working properly. With AC off fan turns slowly, when AC is turned on fan speed increases. The last time I drove to work it was normal for 15 out 17 miles (90% on freeway over 45). Same thing on way home. So I think it is more prone to overheat idle. After bleeding last night I turned the heater off and AC on and a few minutes later the temperature started rising. Took about 10 minutes to hit 3/4 which is when I turned it off.
While, that's not enough to be certain, but it does sound like it may be a fan issue. The fan should really be roaring just before (and during) the needle goes above the half-way mark. What's the fan fluid look like?
Okay, I'll check it out when I get back from work and let you know. Thanks
After replacing all cooling parts including radiator and still having leaks under the aluminum fill cap I over tightened and went about my business. After getting an overheat two years later and seeing the coolant residue and lowered level, I resolved to cut an o-ring (Dorman assortment) to fit tight around inside of fill cap with no movement then bled again. No leaks since. Also, I haven’t seen the video, but make sure you’re following the bleed instructions perfectly.
Ya, I'm getting to be a real expert at bleeding the system! I went OEM on everything and the cap appears to be sealing properly. I notice the pressure release when removing. I miss the good ole days... hose springs a leak, replace it and your done!
I know that bleeding the coolant system on the LS V8 can be a real pain. I finally bought this (UView 550000 Airlift Cooling System Leak Checker and Airlock Purge Tool Kit) off Amazon last year when I changed the antifreeze in my LS. GOOD investment, but you will need an air compressor to use it. Never had to bleed my LS after buying this little tool.
This question has no relation with your over-heating...Did you buy 50/50 premixed coolant? I agree with Jmeecer ...you may want to but UView 550000 Airlift Cooling System Leak Checker and Airlock Purge Tool Kit ...
Yes on the premix.
Okay all. Here is today's update. Went to check if fan was working properly per Joegr's suggestion. Topped off Degas and started. Ran AC the entire time. Took about to 5 minutes to get to normal (bottom side of middle line). No leaks and fan running normally. Let idle for 5 minutes with no change. Ran at 2000 rpms for about 2 minutes. Temperature remained normal. Slight increase in pressure on top hose but no overheating. Let idle for another 10 minutes... everything normal. The phantom is gone again!!!