2001 LS V8 does it have the DATC Test tools?

DaleGrib

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I know the Gen 2 has this option but does the Gen 1? I am having trouble just about one year after replacing the entire coolant system with the car starting to overheat again. I have not been able to really do much testing yet but I wanted to see if this had the option so I can try to see if my DCCV or Aux water pump is defective or possibly get some insight with the codes it can provide. I notice the 2 center vents when using heat barely any air comes out and its not hot and instead of heat coming out of the main vents it's ice cold full blast ac. I was gonna make sure there was not any air in the system so that is why I tried the heat to try and bleed out the system. Any help would be great as I was just about to drive on a 600 mile trip the first of the month and I need to obviously figure this one out or I won't make it very far.
 
Yes, the 1st gen has DATC self diagnostics, just like the 2nd gen. They are triggered a little differently than the 2nd gen (if using the DATC buttons instead of a scan tool), but the capabilities are the same.

In either case, it will detect it either DCCV solenoid has corroded open or shorted to ground, but will not detect any purely mechanical problem, like stuck, clogged, or leaking. It should be the same for the aux pump, open or short circuit only. As far as overheating goes, only leaking from the aux pump or DCCV could lead to overheating. Any other problem with either of those should not. (Yes, the aux pump helps cool after shutdown, but it really won't make the difference between overheating and not overheating.)
 
Yes, the 1st gen has DATC self diagnostics, just like the 2nd gen. They are triggered a little differently than the 2nd gen (if using the DATC buttons instead of a scan tool), but the capabilities are the same.

In either case, it will detect it either DCCV solenoid has corroded open or shorted to ground, but will not detect any purely mechanical problem, like stuck, clogged, or leaking. It should be the same for the aux pump, open or short circuit only. As far as overheating goes, only leaking from the aux pump or DCCV could lead to overheating. Any other problem with either of those should not. (Yes, the aux pump helps cool after shutdown, but it really won't make the difference between overheating and not overheating.)
Yeah I don't have any leaks at all so that is why it's a bit puzzling to say the least. How can I run it on the Gen 1 cause the stuff I found online said to hit the off and floor button at the same time and then press auto within 2 secs and I saw one say hit off and defrost and hit auto within 2 secs as well but neither of them seemed to do anything on my car. I know it is not likely gonna tell me much being what you just had said but it would be good to know how to do that the correct way in the future.
 
Just an update I was trying to bleed the system... I did so for about an hour and a half till it started pouring down rain, so I had to stop it for the night. But I can say I got heat when I cranked it up to 90 and for most of the time it was very hot with a few occasions of it getting cooler and then getting pretty hot over and over again the whole time. But at the end I was wanting to see if I put the car at 85 would I still get heat and the answer is nope! I only get heat on the wide open setting. Does this sound like there is air in the system still or could it be anything else? The car never overheated during the attempted bleed process which was the first time since the issue occurred today. I could not get the car to run for any longer than about 1-2 mins before it would start to overheat earlier today.
 
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Sounds like trapped air ... Leak somewhere?
 
Sounds like trapped air ... Leak somewhere?
I don't think so I have not noticed any dried coolant and it had not leaked down at all. I just thought maybe when the guy did my valve cover gaskets and he might have taken off a line and caused air to get in the system. That is the main reason I am trying to bleed it. I have not driven the car very much at all since the valve cover gaskets got replaced and it has been a few months since he did that repair but he did not remember taking any lines off. Just hoping it's trapped air at this point. But if I can't find any leaks or anything else strange and it happens again would I be smart to go ahead and replace the thermostat as a safe measure? I know I replaced it last year but as cheap as they are it won't be hard to get a new one.
 
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The only part that I did forget to change when I did my coolant system was the small piece of hose that connects to the thermostat housing. Is there a part number for that or would just taking the old one off to autozone and matching it up with another piece of their universal radiator hose work and be ok? It just looks old and I don't see any cracks on it so far but for peace of mind was thinking tomorrow of replacing that hose and grabbing a new thermostat and gasket.
 
I would think that a piece of hose of the correct ID and cut to length would work, rather than trying to get the specific part.
 
Today when trying to bleed it I got no heat at all even at 90. Is it possible for a thermostat to stick open and the car overheat? I know that is most likely a dumb question as I thought it would only happen if stuck closed.
 
Nope. Wide open thermostat on working cooling system = never reaches operating temperature.
95% sure it's air locked.
Something's leaking, even if it's not enough to see or measure, it's letting air in.
 
Nope. Wide open thermostat on working cooling system = never reaches operating temperature.
95% sure it's air locked.
Something's leaking, even if it's not enough to see or measure, it's letting air in.
Yeah that is what I was thinking but I never try to go off my own thoughts cause 9 out of 10 times just guessing is never good enough on these cars!
I have a mechanic that is gonna check it out tomorrow if all goes right. I think this one is beyond my eyes.... and ability. Other than if it's the one hose on the front of the thermostat housing but I doubt it as usually you would see some kinda dried coolant. But either way I am gonna get that section replaced for peace of mind. And if a thermostat sticks closed or open it should throw a code right? I do agree with you that there is a good chance of a small leak somewhere and it's air locked.
 
...And if a thermostat sticks closed or open it should throw a code right? ...

Not directly. There is no thermostat monitoring. You would eventually get a code for unable to reach operating temperature if stuck open, or a code for failsafe cooling triggered if stuck closed. However, you would get that code for any cooling system problem that kept it from cooling, not just a stuck thermostat.
 
Dale
I know that bleeding the coolant system on the LS V8 can be a real pain. I finally bought this (UView 550000 Airlift Cooling System Leak Checker and Airlock Purge Tool Kit) off Amazon last year when I changed the antifreeze in my LS and my other two vehicles. It has been a real lifesaver and has paid for itself in both in time and money. I used it on my daughter car a few months ago when she somehow damaged her radiator in her Nissan Altima, talk about a pain in the ass to bleed that car. Glad I had this tool.
 
Dale
I know that bleeding the coolant system on the LS V8 can be a real pain. I finally bought this (UView 550000 Airlift Cooling System Leak Checker and Airlock Purge Tool Kit) off Amazon last year when I changed the antifreeze in my LS and my other two vehicles. It has been a real lifesaver and has paid for itself in both in time and money. I used it on my daughter car a few months ago when she somehow damaged her radiator in her Nissan Altima, talk about a pain in the ass to bleed that car. Glad I had this tool.
When I get into a position where I can afford that kit I will grab one as well that is a good idea for sure.
 
Dale,

I agree with Joe on being air locked. There is something you could try... and it may or may not work.

Take it out on the highway for a good 20 minute drive... and alternately cycle the temp settings on the climate control.

Start out with both on 75... then cycle one side all the way to 90... and the other side down to 60, and wait a couple minutes. Then do the opposite and wait a couple minutes. Then back to 75... wait...and then both up to 90... wait...then both down to 60. Then one last round of 90-60 and 60-90

If there is any air in the heater core this should force it out.
 
Dale,

I agree with Joe on being air locked. There is something you could try... and it may or may not work.

Take it out on the highway for a good 20 minute drive... and alternately cycle the temp settings on the climate control.

Start out with both on 75... then cycle one side all the way to 90... and the other side down to 60, and wait a couple minutes. Then do the opposite and wait a couple minutes. Then back to 75... wait...and then both up to 90... wait...then both down to 60. Then one last round of 90-60 and 60-90

If there is any air in the heater core this should force it out.
OK I will try that but if I am not mistaken once the unit goes to 90 there is no dual settings for ac. I might be wrong but I noticed it only shows 90 on the screen and nothing on the other side but again it displays both sides when you go back down to 85. I will try that though ! Thanks. I am waiting on roadside right now to bring me some fuel this happened right before I was going to get gas yesterday (I live a good bit from any decent gas stations as I live in the sticks) Did not want to chance driving it with 20 miles to empty.... I had more gas in it than that but in the 2 or more hours of trying to bleed it that is no longer the case! So yeah not gonna risk driving into town with that little bit of gas! I never like to get down that low anyway but in this instance it could not exactly be avoided as it was lower on fuel before because of needing to have my gas tank dropped on the previous repair. They will at least bring me premium gas though but not the usual ethanol free gas that I usually use but I will burn it out fast if the car does not overheat, and fill the rest of the tank with Premium ethanol free gas.
 
Not directly. There is no thermostat monitoring. You would eventually get a code for unable to reach operating temperature if stuck open, or a code for failsafe cooling triggered if stuck closed. However, you would get that code for any cooling system problem that kept it from cooling, not just a stuck thermostat.
Yeah I did not let it run very long so it never hit fail safe. (limp mode) I am very observant and I saw when the gauge went up over 3/4 of the way in the blink of an eye and saw the message check engine temperature. But when checking I had no codes other than low voltage codes as the day before I had just replaced my battery with a OEM motorcraft battery. So they were kinda expected since I had not cleared anything else out. And I know it was overheating cause I could hear the degas bottle bubbling big time.
 
LOL... I recently pulled into a gas station after driving for a mile with the message center saying "0 miles to empty". I might put a gas can in the car sometime and see how far past "0" I can go.
 
saw when the gauge went up over 3/4 of the way in the blink of an eye and saw the message check engine temperature

And I know it was overheating cause I could hear the degas bottle bubbling big time.

I am having trouble just about one year after replacing the entire coolant system with the car starting to overheat again

Did you replace the thermostat when you did the cooling system?

Did you replace the degas bottle when you did the cooling system? If so, did you use an OEM or aftermarket degas bottle?

Did you re use any of the o-rings that seal at the mating surfaces?
 
Did you replace the thermostat when you did the cooling system?

Did you replace the degas bottle when you did the cooling system? If so, did you use an OEM or aftermarket degas bottle?

Did you re use any of the o-rings that seal at the mating surfaces?
I replaced the thermostat with OEM and thermostat housing with the URO parts one. I replaced the degas bottle with the URO Aftermarket one as well. I bought all new oem hoses and o-rings with the exception of the hose that connects the thermostat housing. I replaced the radiator as well pretty much everything. I know it was a long list of parts to say the least. Replaced the DCCV and aux water pump, the main water pump and pretty much everything else that was suggested here on the site. All of that was done at the same time.
 
On this car if the heater core is clogged up or bad it could cause the car to overheat?
 
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On this car if the heater core is clogged up or bad it could cause the car to overheat?

In theory yes, but I do not think the LS is known for having bad or leaking heater cores...but (Murphy's Law) anything is possible, just rare on LS models. Clogged cores another issue. Clogged heater cores can usually be detected by little to no heat during driving speed. Regular coolant changes and good coolant system cleaner can help prevent clogging. I do not have much knowledge with clogged heater core on LS models, maybe some on here will have more information. Again, I would have to say Yes it is possible to have a clogged core on a LS due to lack of maintenance, but I do not think that a clogged heater core that is not leaking would be the root cause for an overheating issue alone. IMO.
 
On this car if the heater core is clogged up or bad it could cause the car to overheat?

No.
If you set the climate control to 60, the DCCV completely closes off circulation to the heater cores.
 

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