2000LSV8 rear subframe

JustALs

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Hey guys after going thru 3 sets of rear tires with new arms top to bottom, new lateral arms and new bearings I figured my subframe bushings were shot.

I bought this car at 140k three years ago and I didn't know much about the ls but the car looked fine.

Yesterday I was doing 225 on a beat up road and the car bottomed out and felt like the back end was going to rip off loose as hell, got home looked under the car and front rear subframe bolts is what hit the ground and they bent

So just by looking at the bolts it looks like they were replaced with longer ones n had like 4 nuts used as spacers but they busted thru the bushing and the only the only thing holding my subframe is the rear mounts but even tho those ones look okay I will be replacing all 4 And getting proper bolts...
I bet this won't be easy finding the nut on top in the body to start the bolt does any one have advice on how I could do this or should I just take the grinder and cut an opening above it from under the rear seats and just grind the factory nut out and add a new one?
I can weld and have no problem dropping the rear frame but I need a source for the bushings and maybe bolts if they make them. Might just buy a whole unit if I can find one.

I found bushings but 220 usd a piece is crazy.

Thanks!
 
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04_Sport_LS

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There is no nut on top. The bolts go into a blind hole on the underside of the frame.

Problem with that is... the bolt is typically froze up in the hole... and the bolt will snap off flush at the frame... making extraction a nightmare.

A member on this forum had to deal with this... during a project of completely gutting an LS for racing.

Use the search function and look for a thread titled "Devons 06 LS" . That should get you close so you can PM him.

IIRC... he tried drilling the bolt to extract it... and it just turned into a nightmare after that.

Beyond all that... leave the welding to the experts. That's what Devon did.

To avoid that... heavily soak the bolts where they go into the the frame with PB blaster... and let it sit for a couple days. Then use a torch to heat the frame area around the bolt. Do the same where the bolts go through the suspension cradle.

You may want to remove the gas tank... and any carpeting, seats, and/or interior trim around where heat will be applied... to help prevent any fires. Make sure any open fuel lines are capped off for the same reason.

Factory bolts MAY still be available for the cradle, from the dealer.

Good luck. :(
 

milehighmikey

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I had that happen to mine where my bolt fell down to the ground, pretty nasty. I ended up cutting through the floor on the left side where this happened, and added plates and washers and nuts. I had previously changed the 4 bushings, prices were not bad at the time, but they were sourced through Jaguar as Ford's solution was, buy a new subframe. When you do the subframe removal, it involves the differential being bolted to the subframe, so that thing adds a lot of weight to the assembly. Unfortunately, there is a way to hack it that they did at the dealership where my son worked, a Ford master tech worked on it because the differential had lost its pinion bearing. This dude did not separate the differential properly to save time. He ended up letting the whole assembly hang there and it bent a lot of stuff down there. So be aware that you should be ready to deal with that rear end also. And the axles, etc. Also, when you put it back together, your alignment may be off. If the wheel is shifted, don't get an alignment to correct it -- the car will be dog-walking if you do that. The car should be pre-measured for congruity from rear wheel to front wheel, so with all 4 wheels off the ground, find a fixed measurement from each rear wheel to its front wheel, and note that value. It should be pretty even. My car was off by maybe an eighth turn of the wheel and loosening the subframe bolts allowed the steering to re-center after making those measurements equal on both sides.
 

JustALs

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Thank you for the info guys.
I know this isn't a cake walk
But I will try to tackle it down someway.

But I can see its twisted because the rear diver side axle boot is rubbing on the subframe and it ripped the boot

I could leave the bolt in the frame and just cut it shorter and try to re-thread it from the bottom instead of taking my chances of breaking the bolt on removal. Or just leave it like that.

The rear mounts where it's close to the trunk spare tire well ,, I was able to loosen them up and the front too so I think I'm just going to remove the rear end and calipers etc drive shaft and stuff and drop it. I also have access to a hoist.

And I found a used subframe in Quebec for 200$ bushings are in very good condition so I'll be going that route since 1 bushing is 200usd.
 
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04_Sport_LS

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Also, when you put it back together, your alignment may be off. If the wheel is shifted, don't get an alignment to correct it -- the car will be dog-walking if you do that. The car should be pre-measured for congruity from rear wheel to front wheel, so with all 4 wheels off the ground, find a fixed measurement from each rear wheel to its front wheel, and note that value. It should be pretty even.

Best way to get that measurment is to pull a tape from center of the hub on the front wheel... to center of hub on the rear wheel, (on the undamaged side), before disassembly... assuming the cradle is still sitting "square" under the car.
 

JustALs

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And I seriously hope you weren't doing 225kph on a bad road. Be thankful that only the car got farked up.
True, one time my front lower ball joint let go at like 100 and it was scary as hell..

But the story is my cousin. He has a honda civic and he always talks about my ls and says it's a slow piece of shit car made for grandpa's lmao and he was in my a$$ lol
I usually don't speed up but the road was not too bad it had no potholes or so but a lot of bumps and with the speed it bottomed out on one of it, weak shocks probably didn't help
1 point remaining on my license so this won't happen again for a long ass while lmao..
 

craigh

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I tried to replace my sway bar rear bushings and one of my rear sub frame bolts sheared off. Not fun to get out of the frame, but with Pb Blaster sprayed in the holes on the frame I was able to get the bold out. Spray the frame everyday for a few days before you start trying to remove the bolts. I did find new bolts at the dealer. About $25 each! But for me I will be keeping the car a long time and I considered it a good investment. Listen to what others have done on this. I also took the subframe out and sandblasted it and repainted it. Took a while but I am happy with the results.
 

04_Sport_LS

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Terry's Jaguar in Michigan is reputable.

I orderd from Jaguar Maurin in Cali when I did my Bilstein conversion many years ago.

Shipping to Canada might be pricey though.
 

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JustALs

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Thanks guys. yeah the bushings are pricey plus having them pressed in too.

Upon further inspection the rear rears looks good, just the front ones that busted thru.
I read somewhere where this guy used polyurethane in the 50-60a hardness and said it worked for him, he used it to diy fill the cracks N stuff but not sure if that would work for me
Might just have to give that a try and will also have replace my antibsway bar bushings too the thing been slapping lol
 

04_Sport_LS

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Gotta have a question... to get an answer.

Urethane bushings come with their own issues. Just buy new OEM arms. You'll get 217k out of them. (as long as you don't try to rip out the rear suspension cradle again) By that time your LS will be needing more than suspension parts.
 

JustALs

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@04_Sport_LS I did not fix the subframe yet but replaced all control arms went OEM few months ago but now I can't afford those rear subframe bushings..
and if its all loose then it's not alignment worthy so can't put new tires on.

I'm just asking if you think it would be possible to liquid pour some poly and fabricate some DIY front rear subframe mounts .

I was thinking of burning the bushes out and tack welding a few little spots inside the bushing mount housing sleeve walls and seal the bottom and pour some poly with a middle sleeve.
This might just rip thru but I think it could be avoided some way by drilling holes after its set and put a few screws in what do you think? Could possibly pour with bags in the bottom and making some kind of taper and just grind it to shape afterwards.
Or just pour and fill the current torn bushes when the subframe is taken apart doing it from top and bottom while trying to keep it aligned
I know this is redneck af I wouldn't expect this to last long but I just need something for a few months.
Thx

Thanks
 

JustALs

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measured both sides of the car center to center, drivers side; 115" passenger side 114"
Did a quick Google search and the wheelbase 2000-2005 is 114.5" so half an inch off
 

04_Sport_LS

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Not gonna comment on making your own bushings.

measured both sides of the car center to center, drivers side; 115" passenger side 114"
Did a quick Google search and the wheelbase 2000-2005 is 114.5" so half an inch off

I would work on getting the subframe square... and double check all the suspension geometry to make sure the subframe isn't tweaked.

Believe it or not... a half inch can make a big difference on tire wear, and the car "dog tracking"
 

JustALs

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No broken spring but it won't sit right cause the bushings are torn and the bush center sleeve is un-centered.
will start to take it apart soon and will check if it's bent too.
My driver side axle been rubbing on the subframe for awhile now not sure if it's because the subframe isn't square and might of caused the rear end to twisted cause it's hooked to the driveshaft or might be bent not sure but will have a better look when I take it apart.


Found this on eBay would these fit the front part of the rear subframe?
Item description ; This part generally fits Jaguar vehicles and includes models such as S-Type,Super V8,Vanden Plas,XJ8,XJR,XK,XKR,XKR-S with the tri ms of Base Convertible 2-Door,Base Coupe 2-Door,Base Sedan 4-Door,GT Convertible 2-Door,GT Coupe 2-Door,L Sedan 4-Door,Portfolio C onvertible 2-Door,Portfolio Coupe 2-Door,Portfolio Sedan 4-Door,R Sedan 4-Door,Sport Sedan 4-Door,Touring Convertible 2-Door,Touri ng Coupe 2-Door,VDP Edition Sedan 4-Door. The engine types may include 3.0L 2968CC 181Cu. In. V6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated,4.2L 4196CC 256Cu. In. V8 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated,4.2L 4196CC 256Cu. In. V8 GAS DOHC Supercharged,5.0L 5000CC V8 GAS DOHC Natural ly Aspirated,5.0L 5000CC V8 GAS DOHC Supercharged. This part fits vehicles made in the following years 2003,2004,2005,2006,2007,20 08,2009,2010,2011,2012,2013,2014,2015.
Suspension Subframe Mount Rear URO Parts C2C31256 | eBay
 
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ajv8

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No broken spring but it won't sit right cause the bushings are torn and the bush center sleeve is un-centered.
I just ordered some poly and hardware will start to take it apart soon and will check if it's bent too.
My driver side axle been rubbing on the subframe for awhile now not sure if it's because the subframe isn't square and might of caused the rear end to twisted cause it's hooked to the driveshaft or might be bent not sure but will have a better look when I take it apart.


Found this on eBay would these fit the front part of the rear subframe?
Item description ; This part generally fits Jaguar vehicles and includes models such as S-Type,Super V8,Vanden Plas,XJ8,XJR,XK,XKR,XKR-S with the tri ms of Base Convertible 2-Door,Base Coupe 2-Door,Base Sedan 4-Door,GT Convertible 2-Door,GT Coupe 2-Door,L Sedan 4-Door,Portfolio C onvertible 2-Door,Portfolio Coupe 2-Door,Portfolio Sedan 4-Door,R Sedan 4-Door,Sport Sedan 4-Door,Touring Convertible 2-Door,Touri ng Coupe 2-Door,VDP Edition Sedan 4-Door. The engine types may include 3.0L 2968CC 181Cu. In. V6 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated,4.2L 4196CC 256Cu. In. V8 GAS DOHC Naturally Aspirated,4.2L 4196CC 256Cu. In. V8 GAS DOHC Supercharged,5.0L 5000CC V8 GAS DOHC Natural ly Aspirated,5.0L 5000CC V8 GAS DOHC Supercharged. This part fits vehicles made in the following years 2003,2004,2005,2006,2007,20 08,2009,2010,2011,2012,2013,2014,2015.
Suspension Subframe Mount Rear URO Parts C2C31256 | eBay
yes
 

JustALs

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can someone confirm if they fit? I need to know before ordering.
And Is this the correct Part Number for the bolts
; C2Z2226
Thanks
 

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