2000 Ls v8 Steering control issues [FIXED]

JustALs

JustALs

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Hey guys this car seems to get a new problem almost everytime time you fix one lol..

Okay so today my turn signal switch and four-way flasher button stopped from working, no highbeam / lowbeam. No wipers and the steering column telescopic 4-way switch doesn't do anything either.
Also I wasn't able to find a switch they are all out of stock :/
ForScan codes ;
B1438
P1565
B1932
Thanks
 
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Does anyone by chance know the nut size on the steering wheel column shaft?
 
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04_Sport_LS said:
Fixed it for ya.
Click to expand...
Haha mybad my english is trash but thnx.
04_Sport_LS said:
That depends on the wiper options.

Do a search on Rock Auto.

Junkyard might have a good used part... but if the telescopic lever is non functional... you might have other issues.
Click to expand...
Yeah, telescopic doesn't work but sometimes it moves like 1cm and stops.. I ran a test with forscan and it moved normally.
The day before this my driver side lower ball joint snapped and crushed my quarter panel, when I was fixing it I saw like 40 wires running under the wheel shroud, they looked fine but I might take a closer look. I was thinking it might be the root of my issues.
Worst part is where Im from you wont find a single ls in a junk yard, I found 1 last year but they got it crushed I should of bought the whole thing for 200$
 
Yeah for sure lol after it broke I checked the upper and it had like 1/4 inch of play, I just ordered all of the rear control arms and two front uppers from Lemforder on fcpeuro. Thank god I had a spare knuckle I was able to fix it and get it home that night, Getting pricey and now that winter is coming I wont get very far with no wipers and blinkers :')
 
JustALs said:
Does anyone by chance know the nut size on the steering wheel shaft?
Click to expand...
It's been a while, and I don't have one anymore, but ... I thought the steering wheel was held on by a bolt. That bolt requires a torx bit to remove it. I don't remember the size. T50?
 
So I removed the steering column neck and it was this black rectangular connector tab on the lower right side, it seemed pluged in but as I pushed on it everything started to work again!
Forgot to mention when my lower steering knuckle ball joint broke I got mad and punched the steering wheel like 15 times so it might of moved the connector somehow lol
 
IIRC... he said he had 260k on the LS. I'm assuming that's KM's... which equates to 160k miles.

I could see that being the original ball joint/knuckle.
 
Replaced it at 240k cause the shop refused to do an alignment because it had some play.
I got a new one pressed in by a reputable shop and it failed on the knuckle lower part so I assume they heated up the cast and it made weak spot. And if I knew the whole knuckle with balljoint was cheap I would of took that route..
38$ for a balljoint so brought the kuckle to get the old one pressed out for 25$ and only 1 out of 6 shops were able to get it out but the one who got it out probably heated it up , and 25 to press the new on in so 88$ and an hour of driving arround when the new knuckle is less than 100 from mevotech
 
JustALs said:
Replaced it at 240k cause the shop refused to do an alignment because it had some play.
I got a new one pressed in by a reputable shop and it failed on the knuckle lower part so I assume they heated up the cast and it made weak spot. And if I knew the whole knuckle with balljoint was cheap I would of took that route..
38$ for a balljoint so brought the kuckle to get the old one pressed out for 25$ and only 1 out of 6 shops were able to get it out but the one who got it out probably heated it up , and 25 to press the new on in so 88$ and an hour of driving arround when the new knuckle is less than 100 from mevotech
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i don’t know why the LS and early s-type ball joint is such a pain in the ass to do.

the later ones have the ball joint flipped upside down. an OTC ball joint press takes it right out with no drama
 
JustALs said:
when the new knuckle is less than 100 from mevotech
Click to expand...

There's a reason for that. You will most likely be replacing thr knuckle again in a year. If you're lucky... 2 years.

And yes... if the ball joint had a nylon insert, (instead of metal), then when/if it was heated... then it was junk already.

Moog uses (or use to use) a metal insert... depending on which tier of part was purchased.

Heating the knuckle can be tricky... and can go wrong real fast if someone doesn't have the experience.
 
I wouldn't be surprised it the garage cracked the knuckle and left it that way. It's easy to do (crack) and they might be stupid enough to send it out that way. The weight rests on it, so it might only give out on just the right kind of motion.
 
Well "cooking" the ball joint (if it has nylon in it) is a sure way to cause premature failure.

The Moog with the "metal gusher bearing" can withstand the heat... if done (and cooled) properly.

That ball joint part number starts with a "K"... and used to be made in USA (and weren't cheap $$$).

If the stud snapped... then something was definitely wrong... that should have been noticeable.

Maybe an unusually large gap between knuckle and control arm.
 
Do you have any suggestion on what aftermarket brand steering knuckle I should get?
 
I'll do ya one better. Rock Auto is showing both Motorcraft front knuckles in stock... but you won't like the prices.

Or... you could get that good Moog ball joint from R/A... and pull a used Ford knuckle (from a non wrecked car)... and have someone who knows what they are doing install the new ball joint in the used knuckle.
 
JustALs said:
Replaced it at 240k cause the shop refused to do an alignment because it had some play.
I got a new one pressed in by a reputable shop and it failed on the knuckle lower part so I assume they heated up the cast and it made weak spot. And if I knew the whole knuckle with balljoint was cheap I would of took that route..
38$ for a balljoint so brought the kuckle to get the old one pressed out for 25$ and only 1 out of 6 shops were able to get it out but the one who got it out probably heated it up , and 25 to press the new on in so 88$ and an hour of driving arround when the new knuckle is less than 100 from mevotech
Click to expand...
I found out the hard way also...never try messi g with the aluminium knuckles ...better to replace lower ball and knuckle together...be thankful you didn't have a serious injury or accident
 
AmsterDutch said:
I found out the hard way also...never try messi g with the aluminium knuckles ...better to replace lower ball and knuckle together...be thankful you didn't have a serious injury or accident
Click to expand...
if it goes in and out nicely no harm no foul

done it plenty of times
 
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