2000 LS v8 no power to fuel pump

J

Jiwek

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Hey everyone just want to say big thanks to you guys on the forum I have learned so much about this car already. My father is an experienced mechanic and he has been impressed at what I have been able to do on this car through reading here. Ok moving on to my problem...

2000 LS v8

One morning my car decided to stop starting, and I cannot hear the fuel pump engaging. I am a little confused on where to proceed now because I have replaced the fuel pump with a Delphi hoping it was just the unit itself. The filters looked awful, so I don't really consider it a waste of money. I have found some similar posts on here and it seems to be an electrical issue.

What I know so far:
There is no power to the connector at the fuel pump when the key turns on. The car will crank but will not start.
Zero fuel pressure at the schrader valve
Battery is reading 11.74 volts
There is a lot of corrosion on and around the battery junction box (BJB). Previously I had a water leak in the trunk that I believe has been fixed now. Not sure if the corrosion is due to gas release from the battery or water in the trunk. I have cleaned up the corrosion on the pins for the relay, diode, and fuse for the fuel pump to no avail (plan to clean the rest off as well, it looks awful)
The relay is working, it audibly clicks with a 9v battery connected to 1,2 and has continuity beep at pins 3,5
The diode has resistance one way (reading ~700 at 2k setting)
The 15A fuse is working

I suspect the BJB has a bad connection to the wiring underneath (or to the sockets) so I removed the casing and took a couple pictures for you guys. However, I realize this could also not be the problem and it could have something to do with the REM or possibly a bad inertia switch. The 5A inertia switch fuse is good (no corrosion on anything for the Central Junction Box) and the button is pressed.

Joegr asked in a similar post if there is 12V on the positive connector to the fuel pump and a bare metal ground. I do not have any power to the fuel pump, however the positive fuel sending unit wire (red and white) has 10.3V of power. I have the wiring diagram and will post it below. Hoping to get schooled by one of you guys, and I am all ears.

I cleaned the cable protector coming from the BJB last night but it was filthy as well

IMG_20220122_165531__01.jpg
IMG_20220123_132943.jpg

IMG_20220123_132925.jpg
 
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First things first...
Is the fuel pump relay coil being powered when the key is in the run position? (You have to check in the first few seconds of turning the key to run. It'll take two people to do.
If you bypass the fuel pump relay, do you get power to the fuel pump? If not, is there power at the relay contacts?
 
googled "testing relay circuit" and got a pretty good explanation of what you're talking about by Homie Hektor yt
 
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Using test light...

Relay pin1 slot has power with the battery pos(+) side grounded, pin3 slot has power with battery neg(-) side grounded

When the key is turned on I'm not getting power to any other contacts

The bypass wire did not power the fuel pump (car seemed to have much less cranking power when I hooked up the bypass)

Going to clean up the corrosion on the remaining two contacts near the cable cluster and retry
 
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I know nothing about the LS, but in reading the posts I did notice something---
Battery is reading 11.74 volts. That reading would be considered a dead battery.
A fully charged battery is 12.68 VDC.
If the LS is like any of the other computer laden cars - they don't like low voltage.
That said, I will now go back to minding my own business.
 
Well the car was not cranking over very well so idk could be the battery. Tested 11.47 last night so it will be needing a charge soon

This is how the jumper wire was hooked up

IMG_20220127_150601.jpg
 
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Jiwek said:
Is this my problem?

View attachment 828576966
Click to expand...
It may not be your only problem, but it is certainly a problem. I bet that the rest of the electrical in the trunk is not in much better shape than that. Looks like you've had water sitting in the trunk, and probably have the wrong battery, or don't have the vent tube connected to the battery.

Jiwek said:
Well the car was not cranking over very well so idk could be the battery. Tested 11.47 last night so it will be needing a charge soon

This is how the jumper wire was hooked up

View attachment 828576967
Click to expand...
Yeah, that's not the right contacts to bypass.
 
Thanks joegr. I want this car to keep going for a bit. I have been so proud of what I've learned and fixed because of this forum. The bypass was what got hooked up in the dark after looking at the diagram. My dad truly does want to help but.. He says you're all from India, and I cannot make him realize that this job would likely go much faster if he would read the wealth of knowledge here.
 
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There definitely has been water sitting in the trunk. For the battery I have one hole side plugged with silicone and the other side connected to the gas vent hose with a little adapter held in place by silicone. I am going to pull the fabric off and try to find the water leak. It sounds like that's what got me into this mess.
 
Relay bypass take 2

IMG_20220127_170551.jpg


The electronics look pretty clean, but with the water problem the contacts could be corroded since it's molex.

IMG_20220127_165934.jpg
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Hmm looks like other people have issues with leaks around the tail lights from what I'm reading. Or it could be the moonroof drain tubes. Will keep looking since those sound like better places for water to get through. With the amount of water that gets into the trunk I doubt it's that tiny seal where the Lincoln emblem is.

Freaking love this forum
 
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Jiwek said:
....He says you're all from India,...
Click to expand...
One of my 5th great grandmothers was an American Indian, does that count? (Apparently, I'm mostly Scottish and English.) Anyway, I'm from Alabama originally.
 
Another thing to keep in mind is with all the water damage you could also be experiencing corrosion that is causing the loss of solid grounds. Tell pop I learned that one in Calcutta.
 
When the car is fully stopped in drive the headlights will dim slightly then come back on really fast in a strobe pattern. Happens on the tachometer light too. Thinking this is related to my electrical/water damage problem but hoping I don't need to replace the F.E.M.
 
Jiwek said:
When the car is fully stopped in drive the headlights will dim slightly then come back on really fast in a strobe pattern. Happens on the tachometer light too. Thinking this is related to my electrical/water damage problem but hoping I don't need to replace the F.E.M.
Click to expand...
It's possible, but it is more likely that it is your alternator starting to fail.
 
Jiwek said:
When the car is fully stopped in drive the headlights will dim slightly then come back on really fast in a strobe pattern. Happens on the tachometer light too. Thinking this is related to my electrical/water damage problem but hoping I don't need to replace the F.E.M.
Click to expand...
Sure sign of a dead battery cell ...your battery should be 12.68V while car is off and 14.43 give or take a bit while car is running
 
Jiwek said:
When the car is fully stopped in drive the headlights will dim slightly then come back on really fast in a strobe pattern. Happens on the tachometer light too. Thinking this is related to my electrical/water damage problem but hoping I don't need to replace the F.E.M.
Click to expand...
Have your battery tested by O Reillys or another parts store ...let them charge it and then allow it to see if it holds a load ...most places nowadays have testers that can test all three battery, starter, and generator
 
joegr said:
. Looks like you've had water sitting in the trunk, and probably have the wrong battery,
Click to expand...
Ford BXT66750

Ford BXT-66-750​

Battery
2000-2006 Ford BXT66750
Your battery says 65 for the Lincoln LS it should be a 66
 
There is no need at this point to be screwing around with wiring, jumpers, and fuel pumps.
The car was starting and running.
Suddenly the car doesn't start.
The battery is sitting at 11.74VDC.
11.74VDC is a DEAD battery.
A battery doesn't have to read 0VDC to be completely dead.
No wonder it won't start. It may just start if you PUT IN a new battery.
Repeat -- PUT IN a new battery.
 
FlaOkie is 100% right. check the 5 amp fuse in trunk. happens to me when its freezing in NY and i don't use my car battery drops to 11 = no start
 
The battery in this car has died before, so this battery is maybe a year old. Gonna have to push it to a parts store because it cranks but won't start. Definitely appreciate the advice, I will have more time to work on the car next week and the mega fuse is coming in Tuesday.

I haven't charged the battery since the car quit starting. It has cranked over several times since then. I will hook up a charger and see what it looks like fully charged.
 
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