2000 LS Still no hot air from heater

hillfolk

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Nakusp, B.C. Canada
Hi all. I have been battling a no heat issue for a while now with no luck yet. I have been through the posts on this site and have the LS maintenance manual as well. I recently removed my DCCV and dis assembled it. It all seems to be working correctly. Also, when I unplug it, it should default to the hot condition. That didn't help either. The aux coolant pump is working.
My heater lines going into the cores at the firewall are warm but not too hot to touch as most people say they should be.
I have no fault codes at the control head.
Can anyone tell me how much of a flow is to be expected from the bleed line at idle? After going through the published procedures, I have just a steady dribble and sometimes inconsistent. Is that enough?
I have yet to try a new thermostat but that is next I think. I think the manual says that it should start to open around 190 deg? I pulled mine out and tested it and it seemed to start to open around 180 deg.
Also, when I had the DCCV removed, I blew compressed air through the lines to the heater cores and they seemed not to be blocked.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
 
You don't say, but you must have the V8 if you do indeed have an aux pump.
You have micro cracks in the plastic cooling system parts. These let air in and that blocks coolant flow through the heater circuits. You need to replace all the plastic cooling system parts, and that may include the radiator. (Look at the front of the passenger side tank near the top for any sign of a crack or dried coolant residue - white or orange or gray powder.)
You must fill and bleed the system exactly by the book. The car needs to be level, or even better have the nose down hill.
How to Drain the Lincoln LS Cooling System
 
You don't say, but you must have the V8 if you do indeed have an aux pump.
You have micro cracks in the plastic cooling system parts. These let air in and that blocks coolant flow through the heater circuits. You need to replace all the plastic cooling system parts, and that may include the radiator. (Look at the front of the passenger side tank near the top for any sign of a crack or dried coolant residue - white or orange or gray powder.)
You must fill and bleed the system exactly by the book. The car needs to be level, or even better have the nose down hill.
How to Drain the Lincoln LS Cooling System
Thanks Joegr, Just to play devil's advocate here, if I had micro cracks letting in air, wouldn't that be during the engine cooling cycle? I can't get heat even after bleeding the system as per your hyperlink for the first time. The system holds pressure. I am away from the car for a bit but will check for cracks when I get back.
Again, what kind of "steady stream" should I expect from the bleed hose? I seem to get a few drops per second at best.
Thanks
 
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Again, what kind of "steady stream" should I expect from the bleed hose? I seem to get a few drops per second at best.
Thanks

It's always (once the air is out and the system is pressurizing) been more of a steady stream for me. If you give it a little gas, it sprays over the front of the car.

When it gets past the dribble stage, I usually put the screw part way back in to avoid so much coolant loss.
 
It's always (once the air is out and the system is pressurizing) been more of a steady stream for me. If you give it a little gas, it sprays over the front of the car.

When it gets past the dribble stage, I usually put the screw part way back in to avoid so much coolant loss.
Thanks. I will try the bleed again with a slight nose down attitude and hope for a steady stream.
 
Thanks. I will try the bleed again with a slight nose down attitude and hope for a steady stream.
You know the air is out of the system when there is a steady stream of antifreeze running out of bleeder make sure the defrost is on high and on full heat you can catch coolant in a bottle if need be the bleeder hose comes out of clips and it makes it easier
 
You know the air is out of the system when there is a steady stream of antifreeze running out of bleeder make sure the defrost is on high and on full heat you can catch coolant in a bottle if need be the bleeder hose comes out of clips and it makes it easier
Is there an average time frame for the bleeding process? I seem to remember bleeding for a solid 10 minutes with just the intermittent dribble. Can it take a lot longer? I was thinking of putting some more tubing on the bleeder as well just to save the coolant.
 
However long it takes to get to normal temperature and have the thermostat open. Depends on how cold it is there.
 

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