2000 LS lower balljoint help.. Complete assy or MOOG?

Justin00LS

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I've been doing some searching on LVC and have learned a lot about LS balljoint issues.. So I'm replacing a bad front wheel hub today and I discovered my lower balljoint is shot (rocking tire with hands at 12 and 6 o'clock position on the tire and play at the following joint- see picture).

It looks like the consensus on LVC is that MOOG is a quality replacement ball joint. Anyone tried MEVOTECH Part # MS40502 from rockauto.com? It's a balljoint and complete assembly for only $125. I'm thinking that by the time I pay for a balljoint and the labor to have it pressed in my original assembly, I might as well spend $125 for the whole part which I can replace myself in my garage without a press or shop labor.

Sound logical or am I missing something?? :confused:

Ready to get this thing on the road again. I miss driving my LS!

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1416956

balljoint.jpg


getimage.jgp.jpeg
 
One thing for certain is that Moog parts work(as in they last). And that is not to say Mevotech does not.
 
Has anyone installed these? I'm assuming they will work on a 2000 LS. I need to replace mine and want to make sure these are decent.
 
Has anyone installed these? I'm assuming they will work on a 2000 LS. I need to replace mine and want to make sure these are decent.

Did on our 2000 a couple of years ago. Worked out well. It was a little hard finding a shop that would pres them into the aluminum arm.
 
Did on our 2000 a couple of years ago. Worked out well. It was a little hard finding a shop that would pres them into the aluminum arm.

I was referring to the Metotech arm, from the pic it looks like it comes as one piece, arm and ball joint.

The alignment shop won't align my car until I replace both front ball joints. They need replace, all the other noises from old suspension parts were covering up these and didn't notice it until I drove it to the shop last night. They said they would press in the new ball joints. Does the hub have to come out of the arm for them to press the new ball joint in?
 
I was referring to the Metotech arm, from the pic it looks like it comes as one piece, arm and ball joint.

The alignment shop won't align my car until I replace both front ball joints. They need replace, all the other noises from old suspension parts were covering up these and didn't notice it until I drove it to the shop last night. They said they would press in the new ball joints. Does the hub have to come out of the arm for them to press the new ball joint in?

I don't remember. IIRC, labor was around $200.
 
At $120 a side I'd try them. I spent around $120 for new ball joints and having the pressed in, but you run the risk of the aluminum cracking pressing new ones in.
 
At $120 a side I'd try them. I spent around $120 for new ball joints and having the pressed in, but you run the risk of the aluminum cracking pressing new ones in.

I ordered them so I'll see if they fit hopefully this weekend. I ordered a new hub as well, not going to try and get that thing out of its corroded hole. I replaced my passenger side last year and destroyed it getting it out so its just best to replace that too.

All thats left are the front upper and lower control arms and the rear lower control arms and I'll have a whole new suspension. I'm hoping they can wait a while longer before replacement.
 
Installed the Mevotech knuckle with ball joint a few weeks ago. A pic of what it looks like installed. I installed both the drivers and passenger side.

2012-04-28 17.25.18.jpg
 
How hard was the install and how long did each side take? I just bought the exact same parts for 118 a piece a few weeks ago
 
How hard was the install and how long did each side take? I just bought the exact same parts for 118 a piece a few weeks ago

Its easy if you have the right tools. If live any where there is salt, it will take awhile to loosen everything. I had to use a torch to loosen the outer tie rod ends and upper control arm nuts. I ended up cutting off the outer tie rod end on the knuckle since it was on so tight and had to buy two new outer tie rod ends. Plan on buying a new hubs as well, mine were corroded and bonded to the knuckle. Took me about a day a side, it became quicker once we brought out the torch and saw.

edit: I should have bought new upper control arms, the ones on there got destroyed while trying to loosen/tighten the nut and I didn't wan to wait to get new ones to install. Thats on the list to change in the next couple of months.
 
Last edited:
Its easy if you have the right tools. If live any where there is salt, it will take awhile to loosen everything. I had to use a torch to loosen the outer tie rod ends and upper control arm nuts. I ended up cutting off the outer tie rod end on the knuckle since it was on so tight and had to buy two new outer tie rod ends. Plan on buying a new hubs as well, mine were corroded and bonded to the knuckle. Took me about a day a side, it became quicker once we brought out the torch and saw.

edit: I should have bought new upper control arms, the ones on there got destroyed while trying to loosen/tighten the nut and I didn't wan to wait to get new ones to install. Thats on the list to change in the next couple of months.
I'm getting ready to order these same parts from rockauto. I did the outer tie rods last weekend, which were very hard to get off. I'm not ordering the upper control arms I hope to get them off with out destroying them. Anyway thanks for all of the info, the site says they'll fit my v6 3.0. I assume the v8 has the 14mm stud size as well?
 
So I want to bump this and see if anyone else has used these. For 60 bucks more it's basically a bolt on and go. Even if it lasts the full warranty. It would be a cheaper route if it lasts.
 
I had the Mevotech rear stabilizer links and the blue boots started cacking in less than 2 years. I replaced them with Moog and the fronts too.
 
I hate to say but I'm looking for a band aid, I know it sounds stupid but I can't afford to have the car up in the air for a weekend like I did with the rear. I can still get the moogs pressed in later for a back up set once I find someone who can press them that I feel comfortable with doing them.
 
Mine are still working as good as the first day I installed them.
 

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