last night my daughter shut off the lincoln ls and after a few minutes tried to restart it. it tried to start but was really rough and died quickly. we towed it home and last night i checked the schrader valve on the fuel rail and there is good pressure. i also gave the intake a good long shot of starting fluid and it really did not seem to help. it did fire a couple of times but now none of the cylinders seem to fire.
2000 lincoln ls wont start UPDATE broken timing chain
- Thread starter ack
- Start date
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Fuel, air, spark, compression - One or more of these is missing.
Try unplugging the MAF. If it's bad or if there's a big air leak, then doing this should allow it to start and run. However, since the starting fluid didn't work, this probably won't either.
If the COPs have power and are pulsing, then since this is a 2000, I think that you next test should be cylinder compression. You may have jumped a timing chain (if this is the V8).
Try unplugging the MAF. If it's bad or if there's a big air leak, then doing this should allow it to start and run. However, since the starting fluid didn't work, this probably won't either.
If the COPs have power and are pulsing, then since this is a 2000, I think that you next test should be cylinder compression. You may have jumped a timing chain (if this is the V8).
it is a 3.9 v-8. i tried the maf with no help. i have no lights flashing on the dash. i pulled a plug and had the wife crank it over. it has good spark. i am leaning towards timing. i have fuel and spark but it won't fire. will the crank position sensor have any effect on this? one other thing is that it does seem to be cranking over harder/slower then normal even with a different battery and a charger hooked up on boost. i did look down into the cylinder and the top of the piston looked damp. i also checked the oil and see or smell no trace of gas. it was running fine last night and after sitting for approx 10 minutes it won't start. i can't imagine the compression going that quick. any quick tips on checking the timing chain?
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
That was the point of the compression test. If you've jumped timing on one side or the other, it would show in the compression numbers that you get.
Other than that, remove the valve covers and turn the crank until all the flats at the front of the cams line up. If you can't get them to line up, you have your answer.
Yes, a bad crank or cam sensor would stop it from running. However, I think that would also stop the ignition.
i don't have the proper comp tester so i kinda rigged one. the passenger back showed roughly 110 and the drivers side a bit higher. not satisfied with the results i pulled the passenger side valve cover. both chains are tight. hardly any slack. i really dont see how it could skip a tooth. both cams have flats that at a quick glance are timed with each other. rolling numb. 1 up to tdc the flats are approx at 11 on the closk compared to the head face.
i did notice a gas fog coming out of the sparkplug hole when i removed the comp tester.
i have not checked the alt. i have switched batteries with a known good one AND had a battery charger hooked up. it still puzzles me as to why it seems to be cranking over s bit slower then normal.
i did notice a gas fog coming out of the sparkplug hole when i removed the comp tester.
i have not checked the alt. i have switched batteries with a known good one AND had a battery charger hooked up. it still puzzles me as to why it seems to be cranking over s bit slower then normal.
rcvxl14
LVC Member
I doubt it jumped timing. I had the exact same problem on my 2006 LS, and a brand new throttle body fixed the problem. It was literally running perfect one day, and the next day I went to start it and it gave the same symptoms yours is. However, it was displaying "ETC engine failsafe mode" on the screen. If your CEL isn't on then I'm not sure what's going on.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
His 2000 has a mechanical throttle linkage, not an electronic throttle like your 06.
ok got it out and with the flats on the cams aligned with each other when i look into the crank position sensor hole the "window" that is aligned with the hole is kinda half mooned on the outside. it is different from the other holes in the plate. i looked the switch over real good and the face of the switch had quite a bit of sticky goo on it. makes me wonder if it could be giving false readings. at this point i am thinking about putting everything back together and giving it a shot since i cleaned the switch off.
not sure if it is a valid check but i reinstalled the cps and pierced the wires with an ohm meter. with the meter set on ac volts i had the car cranked over and i did get some very low ac volts. i only have 3 plugs in the engine at the moment and we only cranked it a couple revs so who knows if it changed anything. we are taking the family out tonight so i am done with the car for now. back at it in the morning. if anyone has any more tips i am all ears!
2002_lincolnLS
Custom User Title
Just out of curiosity, why would you check anything on a DC battery electrical system with AC volts? As far as I know there is no inverter changing the system to AC for a sensor, maybe I am wrong.
Or is that a Typo?
Joe may be able to tell what sensors should be showing voltage wise.
Or is that a Typo?
Joe may be able to tell what sensors should be showing voltage wise.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
There are lots of AC signals in cars...
I'll have to look up the particular crank sensor. It could be a hall effect, which would be DC pulses. However, it is most likely to be a simple magnetic coil, which will be a low voltage AC signal.
UPDATE i finally gave up and pulled the drivers side valve cover even though it showed good compression. how i don't know. the "rear" timing chain is broke. at least i have found he problem. the bad is i have NO time to work on it. i just called a local guy and he is working up a quote mon. day morning. anyone have a guess what kinda cost i am looking at having it done?
1LoudLS
Dedicated LVC Member
it is an interference motor, but it will depend on how far it jumped timing... there have been a couple on here that said they thought it looked like it only jumped a tooth or two and were fine after replacing the chain and tensioners. but if it completely broke or jump timing a lot, I would pretty much bet on it smashing a bit up... if thats the case, your most economical thing to do would probably be to find a used motor out of a junkyard and swap it in, many times people have found motors for well under a grand. it should be far cheaper than having a machine shop go through and do all the work cleaning up the mess and replacing parts...
NOW IN MY OPINION if this is the case, before dropping the new motor in, I would definitely tear into it and replace the tensioners just incase they haven't been done already to keep this from happening again.
NOW IN MY OPINION if this is the case, before dropping the new motor in, I would definitely tear into it and replace the tensioners just incase they haven't been done already to keep this from happening again.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
This, and try to get a 2002 3.9. (Better oiling of the chains.)