2000 gen 1 parasite battery drain

LincolnSedan

LVC Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2020
Messages
20
Reaction score
1
Location
chicago
Have a .74 amp reading between negative on battery cable and the negative terminal on the battery reading a meter. I am being extra cautious as I have a new battery. Thought .75 amps of draw on a battery after the car generally goes to sleep is quite a bit? What should this care usually draw sleeping? I pulled every single fuse and relay in the car, got no change in amp draw reading .75. The Only difference I found was with the back distribution box in the trunk. Pulled ssp1, 2, 3 and the relay related to them, the amp reading dropped to .61. Plug any of them back in, the draw goes back up to .74.

I have had dead batteries for the winter as the car is parked inside. I am trying to eliminate a draw being an issue. If the above is the case, does anyone have an idea where to trouble shoot for a draw on the system after pulling every fuse and relay? For, me hard to narrow down circuits to look at if I have no where to start.

Thanks.
 
Sleep mode battery drain needs to be less than 50mA (0.005 A), and it usually more like 20 or 30 mA (0.003 A).
The car will not sleep until about 30 minutes after the last thing you changed (door/trunk/hood/glove box opened or closed, button pressed (remote or in car), or connecting or disconnecting the battery or a fuse.

If you really did pull all fuses (I don't think you did, because then pulling an SSP relay wouldn't matter), then it has to be your alternator. Disconnect it to verify.
 
Thought the sleep mode impacted the test. Wondering if it would draw .75 for 30 min? I am checking again after 30min today, or 45 min. Pulled fuses in rear dist box, pass kick panel, front dist box. I was looking or an amperage drop based on the .75. The only drop I obtained was disconnecting the ssp fuses (relays whatever, positions 23, 24, 27, plus some relay). Maybe the ssp fuse/relays power other portions of the fuse distributions rather than an individual circuit. All the other fuses where connected when removing these three, and relay located behind it to obtain the .62. I have the amp meter probe plugged into the 5 amp range, rather than the mv one as I did not want to start low and fry it.

I am verifying the sleep mode amps next.

Understand a potential bad diode in the alternator, the car is 20 yrs old, has almost 140k on it. Could disconnet, check amp draw, really wanted to get into it, could pull and check fields but that would seem to be last step. thanks.
 
Thought the sleep mode impacted the test. Wondering if it would draw .75 for 30 min? I am checking again after 30min today, or 45 min. Pulled fuses in rear dist box, pass kick panel, front dist box. I was looking or an amperage drop based on the .75. The only drop I obtained was disconnecting the ssp fuses (relays whatever, positions 23, 24, 27, plus some relay). Maybe the ssp fuse/relays power other portions of the fuse distributions rather than an individual circuit. All the other fuses where connected when removing these three, and relay located behind it to obtain the .62. I have the amp meter probe plugged into the 5 amp range, rather than the mv one as I did not want to start low and fry it.

I am verifying the sleep mode amps next.

Understand a potential bad diode in the alternator, the car is 20 yrs old, has almost 140k on it. Could disconnet, check amp draw, really wanted to get into it, could pull and check fields but that would seem to be last step. thanks.
The reading after sleep mode may be engaged is .07 which is an improvement however not .003-.005. Am using the 5 amp com port. If changing that to the smaller port, wonder if 2amps would blow the meter considering I did see that before removing trunk light bulb. Maybe remove alternator cable? It would seem if that reading is accurate in sleep mode.
 
When you said sleep mode needs to be blow 50ma, did you mean .050, lincoln ls usually .020-.030, vs .002-003? It seems like .002 may be 2ma not 20? thanks
 
When you said sleep mode needs to be blow 50ma, did you mean .050, lincoln ls usually .020-.030, vs .002-003? It seems like .002 may be 2ma not 20? thanks
Yes, sorry I did add an extra decimal point somehow. Alzheimer's maybe?
 
Yes, sorry I did add an extra decimal point somehow. Alzheimer's maybe?
Ok, so far alternator positive disconnected it is at .07 still. that appears to be just a hair over the .050, nice if it was at .025. there is some complicated procedure listed online for this, TSB 02-9-5, looks like it involves testers, who knows what. Anything that may come to mind that would be simpler to look at than that long winded procedure if .07 is draining the battery? I am going to check again but it has been over 1/2 hr, or 40 min. It did drop voltage from the original wakeup connecting battery.
 
While 70mA is too high, it should still take weeks to drain the battery. If yours is going down faster than that, you have some other issue too. Have you swapped out the factory radio, or added anything that is always powered?
My son's Ranger had a drain that was intermittent. It turned out to be the aftermarket turn signal flasher he had added so that his LED turn lights would work correctly.
Fortunately, I never experienced a drain in either of my LSes, so I've never looked into what might be common there. I'd probably start with the FEM and the REM as the first suspects, just because of their influence on the car's sleep.
 
There is an aftermarket radio that has 2 power leads within inline fuses. I did disconnect them, the are the memory for the radio. the radio has been in the car for years, did not cause this. was driving it more regularly. now disconnected. I have no other aftermarket.
the car has been sitting however it would not last a week, or even 3 days after charging it on multiple voltages, 1hr 12 amps, 1 hr 40 amps. car would start, next day would be dead, have to jump again.
replaced battery from september of 21 with new one. they did a load test on counter, battery had 4.5 volts, failed. I had charged it prior to bringing it there in the last 24 hrs. could the battery have been defective from factory?
am concerned about new battery being ruined by drain.
do not know about intermitant drains. the car was sitting, there was nothing other than the radio. guess unlike my f150, needed to constantly disconnect battery.
guess I would have to figure out how trouble shoot around those modules. dont do much with voltage drop tests, or get that heavy into testing relays either.
 
There is an aftermarket radio that has 2 power leads within inline fuses. I did disconnect them, the are the memory for the radio. the radio has been in the car for years, did not cause this. was driving it more regularly. now disconnected. I have no other aftermarket.
the car has been sitting however it would not last a week, or even 3 days after charging it on multiple voltages, 1hr 12 amps, 1 hr 40 amps. car would start, next day would be dead, have to jump again.
replaced battery from september of 21 with new one. they did a load test on counter, battery had 4.5 volts, failed. I had charged it prior to bringing it there in the last 24 hrs. could the battery have been defective from factory?
am concerned about new battery being ruined by drain.
do not know about intermitant drains. the car was sitting, there was nothing other than the radio. guess unlike my f150, needed to constantly disconnect battery.
guess I would have to figure out how trouble shoot around those modules. dont do much with voltage drop tests, or get that heavy into testing relays either.
Its a hard problem so keep up the work
 
Is the car in security mode when it has this draw? Key fob lock or door switch lock engaged? Mine will bleed a battery down to nothing in a week in electronically locked mode, but lasts significantly longer if the alarm is not set and the lock is done manually. I never measured the draw of mine. I just stopped the offending practice since the car is not a daily driver.
 
followed TSB 05-22-9, which is overly complicated. The only part of this procedure I can do is the fuse test. i do not have the scl or other firmware testing equipment for modules. followed the fuse removal test from the back dist box, to the one under the kick panel then the front.
the starter is currently completely disconnected.
the test specifies latching hood, alarm, and truck lights, then doing test. the amps settle to around .07 which appears to be my high drain amperage, double .035. removing fuses in the back, except for ssp 1-4 and relays, same amp reading. eventually in kick panel dist box, removing fuses 2 and later, I need to reset the key fob to bring the voltage back to .07. take out more fuses, it goes to 0 again, need to reset key fob to get it back to .07. moving to front dist box, removing all fuses and relays, same thing except the .07 only stays on for a very short time then 0.

at the end of this lengthy, busy test, I cannot determine how I am suppose to isolate any circuit since it is behaving the same with mutiple cicurits, while disabling the entire electric system.
only thing that appears clear is that the ssp circuits and relays are active during this test. WTF is the point of this test if the result is 0 with a system wake up every so many minutes?
it then goes into cryptic module software link tests after, is anyone useing forscan for this exotic testing or is this a propritary tester? scl protocol?
 
In my town theres a car electric shop "unique wiring", ph 330 784 8000. Opens at 9 am Akron Ohio . I gave had him fix gas door that would not open. He replaces ev batteries . Try calling him, tell them what your problem is. He might clue you in to what to look for at this point. Worth a try. Its a old school kind of place . Offer him a few $ to help over the phone. Try a chicago car electric shop too.
 

Members online

No members online now.
Back
Top