2 consecutive defective DCCV's??

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murphymusic

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Firstly,thank you all so much for guiding me through years of successful troubleshooting and repair of my Wife's 2006 Lincoln LS. I have been on this forum for weeks trying to get the cooling system/AC system to operate correctly and I am at my wits end.

Years ago, the LS started blowing hot air out of the passenger side vents. I researched the problem on this forum and replaced the DCCV (although cuz' I'm a cheapskate I got a used one off of Ebay). The problem was fixed...for a while (maybe a year or so) and the uneven cooling/heat slowly returned.
Fast forward to this summer: The LS's radiator fan was constantly going full-blast. It sounded like the car was about to explode. My wife suffered an overheat while out of town and I decided it was time to get to the bottom of these issues. Again, I returned to this forum and after searching many threads with similar symptoms I ordered a new thermostat, thermostat housing and water distributor assembly through RockAuto :DORMAN 902903 {#3W4Z8548AD}
I thought it would also be the perfect time to order a new DCCV :MOTORCRAFT YG378 {#2R8H18495AB, 2R8Z18495AA}
After removing the old t-stat housing and water distributor assembly I discovered that the water inlet tube was completely crumbling apart so, I ordered one and when it arrived began the repair.

After everything was buttoned up I filled the system w/appropriate coolant and bled and bled and bled it. I followed the Ford shop manual fill and bleed instructions to a tee.
The Coolant leak and racing fan issues were resolved, but the A/C still blew hot on the passenger side! Again, I returned to this forum and learned about the DATC self-diagnosis. The DATC returned these codes: 2799, 1262. I followed the pinpoint test J and all tests pointed to a defective DCCV. I contacted RockAuto, set up a return and ordered a new DCCV (same part and manufacturer). It arrived yesterday. I put in the new DCCV and HALLELUJAH I had cold air from all vents!!! I ran the self-diagnosis after the repair and came up with only code 1262 (not surprising because I never touched the defrost actuator).
I thought that I had this thing licked!!
I was wrong!
Later that evening, I wanted to take the LS for a spin and enjoy the cold A/C...guess what....HOT on the passenger side and luke-warm-coolish on the driver's side!! I once again ran the self-diagnosis: 2799, 1262....crap!!!

What are the chances of getting 2 OEM DCCVs that are defective??
I've not yet done the pinpoint test J on the new DCCV.
I have not replaced the Degas bottle (haven't lost coolant and don't see a leak).
Could this 1262 code be the culprit? I've researched how to remove the instrument cluster to gain access but I'd rather not if it's not going to help with my issue.

Many thanks to any of you that might be able to shed some light on this for me!
 
MurphyMusic, COuld you scan and post the Ford Shop Manual bleed instructions. I am having the same problem as you, just installed the brand new DCCV, and I am not getting a successful bleed, cannot get hot or cold air from the climate control system. I m stopping for the day since here in CA my garage is probably above 90 degreees F and 90 degrees is the highest heat setting on the LS climate control - I do not want to keep trying to see if I can get heat to work when the internal thermostat is simply not calling for it. I'll be watching your post thread with interest hoping we get our problems answered. By the way, do you have a V6 or V8?
 
In 2006 Lincoln only produced the V8. I have the instructions in .pdf format. I'm sure I downloaded them from this forum. I'd love to post for you, but I don't know how!
What do you mean cannot get hot OR cold air from the climate control??? What ARE you getting from the climate control???
 
The Degas tank doesn't always leak... It introduces air into the system causing an overheat condition. I would replace the Degas tank first and go from there.
 
I'm no longer having an issue with overheating since I replaced the t-stat, housing, water distributor & water inlet tube assembly.
Could the Degas bottle somehow be affecting my air conditioning??
 
More info that might be helpful.....Since the day we bought the car (bought in 2010-previously owned) we have occasionally heard "critters" behind the dashboard. I realize that this activity is probably blend doors moving, but it sounds kind of odd. This "activity" behind the dash can continue after the car is shut down, w/key removed for 60 seconds or so. I never thought of it as a problem, but perhaps it is??

I took the LS for a spin this evening...initially COLD air on Driver's side, tepid air on Passenger's side...after 5-10 minutes...cool-ish air on Driver's side and HOT air on Passenger's side!!

Also now, on start-up, the vents seem to do a 20 second "dance" trying to decide where to blow from until it blows full force from the dash vents.
It may have always done that, not sure...I don't think so.

Help!!!
 
murphymusic said:
More info that might be helpful.....Since the day we bought the car (bought in 2010-previously owned) we have occasionally heard "critters" behind the dashboard. I realize that this activity is probably blend doors moving, but it sounds kind of odd. This "activity" behind the dash can continue after the car is shut down, w/key removed for 60 seconds or so. I never thought of it as a problem, but perhaps it is??

I took the LS for a spin this evening...initially COLD air on Driver's side, tepid air on Passenger's side...after 5-10 minutes...cool-ish air on Driver's side and HOT air on Passenger's side!!

Also now, on start-up, the vents seem to do a 20 second "dance" trying to decide where to blow from until it blows full force from the dash vents.
It may have always done that, not sure...I don't think so.

Help!!!
Click to expand...


I can't find the thread or the exact name of the part but there is a "blend" (not really a blend door as the LS has none) door behind the glove box. There is a motor that moves the door and the gears get stripped and it makes a chirping sound as it tries to reach its parked position. Once I replaced mine the chirping disappeared. If you remove the glove box you can actually watch the motor arm to park.

I HOPE Joe will chime in and explain it better...
 
Lately, when I shut down the car (could always have happened but now I'm listening very critically)..I hear this activity from all over...glove box...hard left (near door) center..It sounded like I heard it from somewhere in the back seat as well. All very distinct...separated by like 5 second intervals....very odd.
 
The sound is more of a "Crunchy" sound if that makes any sense...like plastic rubbing on plastic.
 
Are you sure you are getting Motorcraft? My experience with Murray was that they failed very very rapidly. Rockauto has been accused of sending aftermarket parts in OEM boxes.. The other big possibility is that you have corrosion or other problem at the DCCV connector. Try unplugging it and plugging it back in (make sure it locks in). If that restores correct operation (even if only temporarily), the you know where the problem is.

You are going to regret the Dorman part.
Your degas bottle if past due for replacement.
 
murphymusic said:
More info that might be helpful.....Since the day we bought the car (bought in 2010-previously owned) we have occasionally heard "critters" behind the dashboard. I realize that this activity is probably blend doors moving, but it sounds kind of odd. This "activity" behind the dash can continue after the car is shut down, w/key removed for 60 seconds or so. I never thought of it as a problem, but perhaps it is??

I took the LS for a spin this evening...initially COLD air on Driver's side, tepid air on Passenger's side...after 5-10 minutes...cool-ish air on Driver's side and HOT air on Passenger's side!!

Also now, on start-up, the vents seem to do a 20 second "dance" trying to decide where to blow from until it blows full force from the dash vents.
It may have always done that, not sure...I don't think so.

Help!!!
Click to expand...

It's called a mode door actuator...
 
joegr said:
Are you sure you are getting Motorcraft? My experience with Murray was that they failed very very rapidly. Rockauto has been accused of sending aftermarket parts in OEM boxes.. The other big possibility is that you have corrosion or other problem at the DCCV connector. Try unplugging it and plugging it back in (make sure it locks in). If that restores correct operation (even if only temporarily), the you know where the problem is.

You are going to regret the Dorman part.
Your degas bottle if past due for replacement.
Click to expand...

How can I be sure that they are genuine motorcraft? They did both come in OEM boxes and they both say Bosch on the caps. What else can I check?
The DCCV connector responded to all the pinpoint problem J diagnosis steps, how do you suggest I proceed with the connector theory?
 
I'm having am having a similar problem. I'm working my way through the pinpoint tests and the component test.
I ran the DATC self test and got the following DTC:

B1242- Air Inlet Door Actuator Circuit Failure
B1262- Defrost Door Actuator Circuit Failure
B1264- Floor Door Actuator Circuit Failure
B2798- Driver Coolant Control Valve Circuit Short to Ground.

I think B2798 is the cause of the other fault. I will following the the pinpoint tests to find the source of that fault first.

H10 CHECK CIRCUITS 91S-FB4 (BN/GN) AND 91S-FB3 (BN/BU) FOR A SHORT TO GROUND

Key in OFF position.
Disconnect: DATC Module C228b.
Disconnect: Coolant Control Valve C1034.
Measure the resistance between ground and:
coolant control valve C1034-1, circuit 91S-FB4 (BN/GN).
coolant control valve C1034-3, circuit 91S-FB3 (BN/BU).


Are the resistances greater than 10,000 ohms?


Yes
INSTALL a new DATC module. TEST the system for normal operation.

No
REPAIR circuit 91S-FB4 (BN/GN) or circuit 91S-FB3 (BN/BU)/91S-FB3 (BK/OG) for a short to ground. TEST the system for normal operation.
 
murphymusic said:
How can I be sure that they are genuine motorcraft? They did both come in OEM boxes and they both say Bosch on the caps. What else can I check?
The DCCV connector responded to all the pinpoint problem J diagnosis steps, how do you suggest I proceed with the connector theory?
Click to expand...

Those should be correct then.
First try unplugging and plugging back in the connector as was suggested.
 
joegr said:
Those should be correct then.
First try unplugging and plugging back in the connector as was suggested.
Click to expand...

OK...I had a very full day and I just got to the LS to do as you suggested. I somehow managed to get my big hand in there and successfully disconnect it w/out having to move anything out of the way. I examined the loose connector and polished up the connections until they shined.
Feeling hopeful and optimistic, I plugged it back in and started the car.....no dice....same crap....2799 & 1262..cold-ish on driver's side and tepid on passenger's side..and getting warmer as I sat there.

After a few minutes of utter disappointment, I left the car running and began to wiggle and shake the connector. Totally pissed, I went back into the cabin and found wonderful COLD air all around!!! Forty-Freaking-Degree Cold air out of every vent!!!! I took the LS for a test drive, got it up to normal operating temperature and the blessed coldness continued!! I ran the datc self-diagnosis and came up with only 1262...the 2799 is gone!

Joe-YOU ARE THE MAN!!!!

But, as I'm sure you'll tell me, I'm not completely out of the woods yet. How do I go about changing that connector out?
Also, do I need to be concerned about the 1262 code? I've not noticed any problem w/defrost on the LS...seems to work fine.
 
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