1998 Mark Viii Transmission Filler Tube

Drumlove521

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What's up my beautiful people, does anyone know exactly how to replace the transmission fluid filler tube o ring? I've tried searching for a write up on it, but to no avail.
 
Generally, you need to drain out the trans oil by dropping the pan or get a suction device and suck it out threw the dip stick tube. Once you get that done, there's a bolt bracket off the tube that bolts the tube to the bell housing. Once you get that bolt out, wiggle the tube free from the engine bay. Good time to do a filter if you have the pan down.
 
Generally, you need to drain out the trans oil by dropping the pan or get a suction device and suck it out threw the dip stick tube. Once you get that done, there's a bolt bracket off the tube that bolts the tube to the bell housing. Once you get that bolt out, wiggle the tube free from the engine bay. Good time to do a filter if you have the pan down.
I had the transmission fluid/filter changed a few days ago, the mechanic told me he'd either have to drop the exhaust or loosen a motor mount to get to said bolt. She's still leaking fluid so I'm going to try and get this handled today.
 
Here's a suggestion, this was my tactic when I finished the J-mod on my 1998 Mark VIII - use a hacksaw and small file to notch the dipstick tube bolt hole flange on the bottom so it can slip over that bellhousing bolt. Clean, prime, and paint the tube. Start the bolt into the bellhousing, slide the tube into place so the flange hooks onto the bolt, then lower into the transmission. For me, it was easier to lift it up from below, then lower it into position - not down from the engine compartment. The notched tube flange makes the process a lot easier, because the tube blocks your fingers from starting the bolt.
 
Thanks for your reply, she's leaking from the dipstick filler tube o ring and the front seal, so my mechanic is pulling the transmission down anyways. Also, I've heard it's best to change the rear main seal along with the front? I would appreciate your two cents on it.
 
I've never had a main seal leak, but if I knew one was leaking I would absolutely do both now instead of having to repeat the process later. Good luck.
 
I've never had a main seal leak, but if I knew one was leaking I would absolutely do both now instead of having to repeat the process later. Good luck.
Right on, just wanted a second opinion on the matter. Thank you sir.
 
If hes dropping the Trans, copy the spec work sheet I posted in the J-mod article and see if he will drill out the valve body ports as described in the article. The stock porting absolutly sucks. The stock porting makes the torque converter do long sloppy gear changes from 1st to second and also to 3rd. The Jmod will make clean fast shifts threw the gears that throws you back into the seat each time with a spirited throttle but dosent have to be WOT. It was one of the most satisfying mods I'v done. As was predicted by the J-mod guys. You wont regret it. Also it keeps your trans oil cooler by not making the TC stay out of lock up so long between shifts. Win, Win....

At the end of this article, I added the spec sheet for any trans guy to follow
 
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If hes dropping the Trans, copy the spec work sheet I posted in the J-mod article and see if he will drill out the valve body ports as described in the article. The stock porting absolutly sucks. The stock porting makes the torque converter do long sloppy gear changes from 1st to second and also to 3rd. The Jmod will make clean fast shifts threw the gears that throws you back into the seat each time with a spirited throttle but dosent have to be WOT. It was one of the most satisfying mods I'v done. As was predicted by the J-mod guys. You wont regret it. Also it keeps your trans oil cooler by not making the TC stay out of lock up so long between shifts. Win, Win....

At the end of this article, I added the spec sheet for any trans guy to follow
Dude, this is badass. Asking him if he'd be down to do it. Thank you sir.
 

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