I thought I would document how to do a coolant change on the Continental. It is a PITA to bleed the air out of the 32V. Lets take it step by step. Step 1: Make sure you can get the factory bypass tube cap off!!!! Might need a butane torch to heat up just below the cap in order to get it off, once you throw heat at the old cap its useless the heat deteriorated the rubber. You need a 1/4 drive ratchet to do this...you must have the old cap off first and the new cap in possession more than anything. Contact 98Mark8lsc he makes these: Step 2: Get antifreeze, this is up to you which brand you use. I use Napa 50/50 pre-diluted green coolant: Step 3: Take off the lower radiator air deflector, has 3 screws up front, and a bunch of push pins in the back of the piece: Step 4: You now have access to the drain plug. Spray some WD-40 on the plug, so that it doesn't bind or break. Be careful with it as its plastic, and has a rubber O-ring that needs to be lubed before you place it back into the radiator. Unscrew and Pull out the plug, make sure the bypass tube cap is off and the recovery tank cap is off. Coolant will pour out very fast make sure you have aluminium food trays or something to catch the antifreeze: Make sure you put drain plug back into radiator!! Make sure its snug fit, don't over tighten!!! Step 5: This is optional I took out my recovery tank to clean it to get all the sediment out. Here is what you need to take it out: (I circled the bolts/fasteners that need to come off for your viewing so its easier) 1. Top recovery tank bolt 10 mm nut. 2. Top tank side bolt into fender well is 8 mm nut. 3. Power Steering Tank bolts both 8 mm , get a bungee cord to tie it out of the way so you can have easier access. 4. Washer bottle neck 2 bolts in center of brace both 8 mm. 5. 2 Fender brace (black bar up front) bolts both 10 mm or so. 6. Unplug the low coolant sensor. (Make sure you cover the connectors with electrical tape so they wont corrode when you wash the tank) 7. Optional: I replaced the snap hose clamp with a small radiator clamp with flat head screwdriver nut. *8. Slide small hose clamp off of the tiny return line on top of the recovery tank, then pull hose off. All Clean: View with tank removed: Replaced old snap clamp with screw type: All put back together again: Step 6: There should be around 2 gallons of coolant that drained out. Measure what you took out, so that you have an idea of what should go back in. Start to pour coolant in the small bypass tube using a funnel. I had to tape mine to the bypass tube so it would not fall down. It will work. Pour the coolant so that the radiator will get full, you will start to see coolant enter the recovery tank at the bottom. Fill coolant up to the middle of the black and white plastic as they meet. Now comes the fun part bleeding the system. Like I said my second time doing this I had problems and need some help on here to figure out what I did wrong. For starters close the reservoir recovery tank cap, leave the small coolant bypass tube vent open, put funnel on top of it. Start the car, turn your heat and blower fan to MAX. Coolant will spew everywhere and go flying, mine did, when the temp goes up, until it levels out when no bubbles can be observed turn engine off and close the bypass tube: Venting and steam coming out, heat was medium to hot out the vents inside if car: Inside temp where it should be: Bubbles can't be seen so the air is out of the system: Once no bubbles can be observed turn engine off and close the bypass tube vent. **If during this process there is no coolant that can be seen in bypass tube vent add more. **When the engine cools down add coolant up to the max cool level on the recovery tank, as to make sure there is no more air: **open the recovery tank and let it run for 15-30 minutes, then close the tank, turn engine off and let it cool down. I'll post on my trouble I'm having so far separately from this original post..