1998-02 Lincoln Continental Coolant change Procedure

Lincoln Continental

  1. Svets96

    Svets96 Dedicated LVC Member

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    I thought I would document how to do a coolant change on the Continental. It is a PITA to bleed the air out of the 32V. Lets take it step by step.

    Step 1: Make sure you can get the factory bypass tube cap off!!!! Might need a butane torch to heat up just below the cap in order to get it off, once you throw heat at the old cap its useless the heat deteriorated the rubber. You need a 1/4 drive ratchet to do this...you must have the old cap off first and the new cap in possession more than anything. Contact 98Mark8lsc he makes these:

    2015-09-28%2014.29.51_zpsymqkcuqw.jpg

    Step 2: Get antifreeze, this is up to you which brand you use. I use Napa 50/50 pre-diluted green coolant:

    IMG_0516_zpszv6a95nd.jpg

    Step 3: Take off the lower radiator air deflector, has 3 screws up front, and a bunch of push pins in the back of the piece:

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    Step 4: You now have access to the drain plug. Spray some WD-40 on the plug, so that it doesn't bind or break. Be careful with it as its plastic, and has a rubber O-ring that needs to be lubed before you place it back into the radiator. Unscrew and Pull out the plug, make sure the bypass tube cap is off and the recovery tank cap is off. Coolant will pour out very fast make sure you have aluminium food trays or something to catch the antifreeze:

    Make sure you put drain plug back into radiator!! Make sure its snug fit, don't over tighten!!!

    IMG_0515_zpsgdqsd2hm.jpg

    Step 5: This is optional I took out my recovery tank to clean it to get all the sediment out. Here is what you need to take it out: (I circled the bolts/fasteners that need to come off for your viewing so its easier)
    1. Top recovery tank bolt 10 mm nut.
    2. Top tank side bolt into fender well is 8 mm nut.
    3. Power Steering Tank bolts both 8 mm , get a bungee cord to tie it out of the way so you can have easier access.
    4. Washer bottle neck 2 bolts in center of brace both 8 mm.
    5. 2 Fender brace (black bar up front) bolts both 10 mm or so.
    6. Unplug the low coolant sensor. (Make sure you cover the connectors with electrical tape so they wont corrode when you wash the tank)
    7. Optional: I replaced the snap hose clamp with a small radiator clamp with flat head screwdriver nut.
    *8. Slide small hose clamp off of the tiny return line on top of the recovery tank, then pull hose off.

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    All Clean:

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    View with tank removed:

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    Replaced old snap clamp with screw type:

    IMG_0521_zpsoyc7oiao.jpg

    All put back together again:

    IMG_0522_zpsvwjuj0cj.jpg

    Step 6: There should be around 2 gallons of coolant that drained out. Measure what you took out, so that you have an idea of what should go back in. Start to pour coolant in the small bypass tube using a funnel. I had to tape mine to the bypass tube so it would not fall down. It will work. Pour the coolant so that the radiator will get full, you will start to see coolant enter the recovery tank at the bottom. Fill coolant up to the middle of the black and white plastic as they meet.

    Now comes the fun part bleeding the system. Like I said my second time doing this I had problems and need some help on here to figure out what I did wrong.

    For starters close the reservoir recovery tank cap, leave the small coolant bypass tube vent open, put funnel on top of it. Start the car, turn your heat and blower fan to MAX. Coolant will spew everywhere and go flying, mine did, when the temp goes up, until it levels out when no bubbles can be observed turn engine off and close the bypass tube:

    Venting and steam coming out, heat was medium to hot out the vents inside if car:

    IMG_0528_zpswedzcjr4.jpg

    Inside temp where it should be:

    IMG_0527_zpsm1sikzyd.jpg

    Bubbles can't be seen so the air is out of the system:

    IMG_0529_zpsxtnxrw3v.jpg

    Once no bubbles can be observed turn engine off and close the bypass tube vent.

    **If during this process there is no coolant that can be seen in bypass tube vent add more.

    **When the engine cools down add coolant up to the max cool level on the recovery tank, as to make sure there is no more air: **open the recovery tank and let it run for 15-30 minutes, then close the tank, turn engine off and let it cool down.

    IMG_0531_zpse2hjk2ik.jpg




    I'll post on my trouble I'm having so far separately from this original post..
     
  2. Svets96

    Svets96 Dedicated LVC Member

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    After doing this procedure the low coolant level message came up on the message center. The next day I added more coolant to the recovery tank through the bypass tube. There was coolant only about a 1/4 of the way up from the bottom, so I poured it all the way to get it in the middle of the white and black plastic meet. Capped the bypass tube vent, opened the recovery tank cap to vent it. So then I started the car, put heat and blower settings to MAX the heat was medium hot, the radiator fans came on and stayed on the whole time, coolant was gushing out of the recovery tank....WHY?? was there still air in the system?? To much coolant added?? couple hours later I checked the recovery tank, and now it looks like this:

    IMG_0531_zpse2hjk2ik.jpg

    What do I do? add more coolant to the recovery tank? or add through the bypass tube up to the middle of the white and black plastic? Run the car again for 15 mins or so?? or just run the car for 15 mins with out adding more coolant?

    Any help thanks!!
     
  3. Svets96

    Svets96 Dedicated LVC Member

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    ***Attention**** Let me add by stating that burping the system through the recovery tank is **Optional**.

    I uncapped the bypass tube coolant pipe filled the coolant through there as it filled the recovery tank up to the white line . Then I had drove the car on the highway and around town for the day with the heat and blower settings to the Max. Heat was hot, I checked on the recovery tank and everything was cool. The smell of coolant that I noticed was all the spatter of when the cooling system was bleeding, it was burning off when the engine was heated up. There are no leaks and things are good.

    Follow this procedure and your good to go.

    Hope this procedure helps everyone.
     
  4. BILLBOATS

    BILLBOATS Well-Known LVC Member

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    Thanks for the real way to do this. I have hesitated as I figured this was going to be not as simple as my other cars. The cars now have bleeder valves because there is so much air trapped in the engine when changing to new coolant.Takes too long now to "burp" the system. Thus bleeder valves
     
  5. Svets96

    Svets96 Dedicated LVC Member

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    Not a problem at all. Took me awhile to actually think about this, then do it. I've done a lot of research on this, also with a lot of help from lincolnelite.
     
  6. FlaOkie

    FlaOkie Active LVC Member

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    Svets thanks for posting this.
    I haven’t done mine yet – I have all new hoses, thermostat and water pump, but I’m too lazy to do it.
    I’ve read many different writeups on the internet on how to fill a
    DOHC 4.6 L.
    One thing that seems to reappear in some of these writeups, is once you fill up the recovery tank put the cap on and do all the fluid adding through the crossover opening, and don’t rely on the recovery tank to indicate coolant level, and always check the level at the crossover opening.
    Another common remark is it may take many heat/cool cycles to get all the air out.
    One of these days I just might take mine to my mechanic and let him pull his hair out.
     
  7. Svets96

    Svets96 Dedicated LVC Member

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    I hear ya on how many different attempts there are to actually do it. Lincolnelite really helped me with mine, he did a write-up and I followed his instructions to the T. I had nothing but good come out of my experience. Sometimes it had gone a little off key but good came out of it.

    If you can swing it with a mechanic, I would do that if I were you. Money spent the right way always is a win, and your car is like new condition.
     
  8. FlaOkie

    FlaOkie Active LVC Member

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    Svets

    After re-reading all this I realized I have everything I will need except a new crossover plug.
    Where do I find this 98Mark8lsc fellow you bought yours from?
    I tried a member search here and got nothing.
     
  9. Svets96

    Svets96 Dedicated LVC Member

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    FlaOkie: His screen name is 98marklsc I had the wrong spelling. Sorry about that. If you type in this name in your people you follow section on your user profile it will give you contact info. I believe he resides in S.C.

    Let me know if you can get through.
     

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