What do I have to do to make the 96 t bird rear shocks bolt into the 96 mark 8 . The t bird has different shocks using a rod instead of the mark flange mounts.s . Can I switch the mark's top shock mounts into the thunderbird's shocks?
1996 fords thunderbird shocks .
- Thread starter BILLBOATS
- Start date
I used '97 or 98' T-Bird shocks IIRC on mine.
I think there was an eyelet flange attachment on my Mark VIII (been ages now, forget what they are called and if the Mark used them) that the shock upper rod went through, that was bolted to the body.
From what I remember, I removed that, and what you end up with is a silver dollar-sized hole in the top of the inner fender opening into the trunk. I took bushings/washers from the new T-Bird shocks and reused some off the old units. I managed to sandwich the new bushings (they had a stepped design and fit the .50 cent hole inner diameter w/o actually falling through the hole as they rested on top/bellow of it; w/o that stepped bushing to ride in the hole and above/below it on the metal, you'd need to weld in a washer to fill the hole while allowing the shock top bolt to go through it snugly) from above/below the large hole. and used the large domed spacer/washers to compress the rubber.
So it went something like this: Shock top ->domed washer ->bushing-> to inner fender hole (o) <- top side of hole ->bushing ->domed washer -> normal washer-> nut (I *might* have needed a slight spacer between the nut and the top of the domed washer, can't remember. If you can't get it tight enough before it runs out of threads, might need a 1/8" to 1/4" spacer. Again, I don't remember exactly, other than everything went smoothly and quickly). Tighten until compressed.
I ran the car for about another 10-15k miles before selling it, and never had issues with that. No idea how others are doing it, but that worked 100% in my case and cost $60 total. Car still had the air ride too. Only issue I ever had was I could hear the cheaper shocks compressing, but that was partly because I had removed a bunch of dampener in the trunk and behind the rear seat and had an access hole behind the rear arm rest.
I think there was an eyelet flange attachment on my Mark VIII (been ages now, forget what they are called and if the Mark used them) that the shock upper rod went through, that was bolted to the body.
From what I remember, I removed that, and what you end up with is a silver dollar-sized hole in the top of the inner fender opening into the trunk. I took bushings/washers from the new T-Bird shocks and reused some off the old units. I managed to sandwich the new bushings (they had a stepped design and fit the .50 cent hole inner diameter w/o actually falling through the hole as they rested on top/bellow of it; w/o that stepped bushing to ride in the hole and above/below it on the metal, you'd need to weld in a washer to fill the hole while allowing the shock top bolt to go through it snugly) from above/below the large hole. and used the large domed spacer/washers to compress the rubber.
So it went something like this: Shock top ->domed washer ->bushing-> to inner fender hole (o) <- top side of hole ->bushing ->domed washer -> normal washer-> nut (I *might* have needed a slight spacer between the nut and the top of the domed washer, can't remember. If you can't get it tight enough before it runs out of threads, might need a 1/8" to 1/4" spacer. Again, I don't remember exactly, other than everything went smoothly and quickly). Tighten until compressed.
I ran the car for about another 10-15k miles before selling it, and never had issues with that. No idea how others are doing it, but that worked 100% in my case and cost $60 total. Car still had the air ride too. Only issue I ever had was I could hear the cheaper shocks compressing, but that was partly because I had removed a bunch of dampener in the trunk and behind the rear seat and had an access hole behind the rear arm rest.
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First of all, I thank you for that detailed and thoughtful instruction . Its the kind of directions I'll need and I can take a look now by opening the trunk or seeing a shock for the Mark sold on line. Its going to give me a picture of where to start. Must have take you some of your time to write me back. Appreciate the help. Your were the only one to reply with information
No problem. I think I used a yellow Monroe shock, and it would have been from a '97 (forget '97 was last year), though dunno how much those changed (if at all) in the final years. From what I remember, it either bolted right in at the base "U" behind the wheel/brakes area, or it needed a washer to keep it square, can't remember.
As long as the stepped section of the bushing is IN the hole, it shouldn't move, but you'll need to really tighten it and if you run out of threads, stick a spacer on it to push the nut further up. The domed washers were on-hand, and were set like a https://atlas-content-cdn.pixelsquid.com/stock-images/high-hats-drum-kit-Ya0o9V6-600.jpg hi-hat from a drum kit where the bushing would be the meat and hi-hats the buns. The sandwiched rubber bushings are thick enough to allow *some* movement, but should keep the rod centered while isolating the shock from the car's body. IIRC, the bushings had a smaller step on the opposite end that faced the washer, and it would "fill" the bottom of the dome. If using a flat washer instead, the smaller stepping of the rubber would prevent the washer from really clamping the outer edges of the bushings as the washer would have hit the small step and compressed that unto the rod. Probably overthinking it, but just a heads up anyways. I'm pretty sure that's why I avoided a flat washer there. I tried to get as much of the bushing onto the outer edges of that giant 50 cent hole in the body.
If you go through with this, tighten the hell out out of it, then take for a test drive. CHECK it often to make sure it's not moving and in fact staying centered. As for the factory flange mount with the eyelet center, once removed, put the 2 (?) bolts back in to prevent rust from getting in there.
As long as the stepped section of the bushing is IN the hole, it shouldn't move, but you'll need to really tighten it and if you run out of threads, stick a spacer on it to push the nut further up. The domed washers were on-hand, and were set like a https://atlas-content-cdn.pixelsquid.com/stock-images/high-hats-drum-kit-Ya0o9V6-600.jpg hi-hat from a drum kit where the bushing would be the meat and hi-hats the buns. The sandwiched rubber bushings are thick enough to allow *some* movement, but should keep the rod centered while isolating the shock from the car's body. IIRC, the bushings had a smaller step on the opposite end that faced the washer, and it would "fill" the bottom of the dome. If using a flat washer instead, the smaller stepping of the rubber would prevent the washer from really clamping the outer edges of the bushings as the washer would have hit the small step and compressed that unto the rod. Probably overthinking it, but just a heads up anyways. I'm pretty sure that's why I avoided a flat washer there. I tried to get as much of the bushing onto the outer edges of that giant 50 cent hole in the body.
If you go through with this, tighten the hell out out of it, then take for a test drive. CHECK it often to make sure it's not moving and in fact staying centered. As for the factory flange mount with the eyelet center, once removed, put the 2 (?) bolts back in to prevent rust from getting in there.