1994 STS Good or no?

joeywhat11

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Hello all, I am currently looking at an STS that I can get for quite a deal. It's in immacualte conditon, except it has 170,000 miles. I am wondering if the Northstar will survive without any large repairs for a while. i was hoping to get it into the 200,000 area...

Can anyone here help me out? The price ($3,000) is well under the KBB value, and the rest of the car is in great condition. I love it, but I want to make sure that I won't have to drop a new engine in it within a month.

Also, when the motor does go, would you guys recommend rebuilding it or getting a new engine? I would have to pay for the rebuild as I don't have the facilities to do so.

Thanks for the help.
 
I'm not into cadillac. My personal opinion, I see that for $3000 and 170K & 94, It's a bit too steep. I go to major car auctions here in New England every week, and a car like ya describe would sell at around under $2200, to as low as $950 ( At auction).
Dunno How long it might survive but when I start Sevilles, DTS's, Eldorados, all that use the same Northstar, in the lot when I check cars before auction starts, 70% of them make a rattling noise in cold starts & revving it after start. All between 93 & 2001 with 75K to 125K that I've checked. These motors seem very sencitive. It's why I never look at em.

94 sevilles I believe came with Air Ride, & this is pricey. The complete system is Over $650 if ya do it youself & probable over $1000 if a mechanic did it. 97's are even more pricier systems. 98's don't have that. At auction, few go by the Black Book, & everyone tries to pay the minumum.

If I were you, I'd look elsewhere, But if you still want Seville, go with something newer like a 98, or something with under 100K, that way u will foresee less problems and u'll have a car that will last U many miles & rears. If you really like the car, check it real good, rev the engine like there were no redline, drive it around to see if the tranny is good. If alls well, and if the owner would like to knock off alittle from the price for some cusion, why not, Just check it well. My Opinion!!!!!!!!!!

You mentioned about the engine If it became an issue. Either way, it will be pricey. A northstar can go $1200 plus. Now u'll have about $4200 in the car. Then before u'll know it the tranny will kick in if it's the original. That will be over $1600. Before u'll know it u would have $5800 in a 94 seville. I don't mean to scare but if u're this skeptical of the car having issue like that, stay away from it and put your money in something more woth it.

I bought a 2000 Continental is mint conditon. Silver, 4.6 32V Intech V8, 275HP, Alpine sterio with CD changer, mem seats, keyless entry, top of the line for $3200. It had 121K.

I missed a 98 continental that sold with the same setup as the 2000 and it sold for $2400. That one had 68K
 
Well, I know the owner, and he has kept all the service records. It's been serviced regularly, and it has been kept up. It was his wifes car, so he made sure it always worked. I'm going to see it in a few days, so I will be able to take it for a test drive.

Also, where did you get those cars for that cheap? I have looked around me, and this was damn near the cheapest I could find. KBB quotes it as over $4000, and most that I have seen are at least that much with similar mileage. Where do you get yours? I don't live too close to any big cities (detroit is closest), so I doubt I could get a good selection from an auction.
 
Well if he has all of the service records and make sure the coolant system was maintained you should see well past 200K. Pull the codes by pressing the off button and warmer button and post back.
 
At Auction, everyone bids the minumum price, Few Go by the Black Book at the auction. The book duzent know the secrets a car may have or codition, It's more of a street value estimate!!!!

I went to a nearby dealer only auction Today That I go Wednesdays. I bought a 1998 Lincoln Continental with 164K. Beautiful/ Original candy apple red metallic, moon roof, Heated Seats, JBL Sterio, damping controls, floor shift, dual A/C, 4.6 Intech 32 Valve 275HP DOHC V8 everything. Engine and tranny & body are perfect. Got it $1,200 plus Auction fee $125, total $1325.

All what it needs are all 4 wheel bearings which is normal to happen with cars with these miles. Other than that It's a great car and will please the next owner for many more years. It's going to a public auction down in Philly and I'm sure I'll get $2,600 plus from it. at public auctions, cars bring highier prices because everyone goes by that book thing ( More Public).

I gave you those quotes on the Sevilles cuz thats what I see them going for here in Dealer Only Auto Auction. Dealers buy the cars cheap to sell em for more on the lot, street, or at public auction where cars bring more money.

If the Seville is as good as you say, and if it test drives well, good records of great maintaining, and for 3 grand flat, then go for it!!

But how many years or miles do you plan to push out of it if ya take the car on?
 
theyre very attractive cars, if it werent for reliability issues, i would own one.

3 g isnt bad but id try for 2800.
 
Hello,
I just purchaced a 94' STS a month ago. It has 92k miles and I paid $3500.
The car was owned buy an elderly couple, but the husband had died, and the widow went out and baught a new Deville.
The car I have is in perfect condition, but did need a few general maintenance items. The list includes new suspension, inner tie rods, brakes, and tires. Pokeeto2 is correct about the suspension being expensive to replace. I got prices for the STS's rear road sencing air shocks as high as $1200 a piece, but there are passive kits available for the car, which is what I purchaced/installed for $411 for both front, and rear. The inner tie rods and brakes aren't as expensive as one would think, iether. I got the parts from A-Zone and the tie rods were $15 a side, front pads were $20, rotors are $29, rear pads are $13 and rear rotors are $19. All of the things I have replaced are general maintanence items on a car with 100k, to me. I know I've never purchaced a car I never had to work on after 100k miles.
The Cadillac I own is going to be used to keep mileage off my 01 Monte SS, and I did not want to spend a lot of money to fix the problems that it had. This is why I went to A-Z for parts. When everything is all said and done I will have less than $4100 in a 94 STS with 92k miles that is in wonderful condition. I dont think I got the deal of a lifetime, but the car will serve the purpose I need it to, and I didn't go broke in the process.
If the STS you are looking into buying is in good shape, runs out well, and was well kept, I'd say go for it. If you can turn a wrench and find a few small items that need fixed, you haven't anything to loose, if this is the type of car you want.
There are lots of cars out there for $3000. And a lot of them will have similar problems.
As far as the engine goes. Do a local search in your area for engines. Pick up the phone and call some local bone yards, or garages and see what kinda money your getting into if the worst should happen... At least then you'll be a little prepared if it does...
 
Need info on conversion from air shocks

I am new to this forum so please bear with me. I posted this on another "old" thread and didn't get a reply. So, here I am.:confused:

My question has to do with the electronic leveling shocks on my wife's 99 Deville. The car is in excellent shape and only has about 70K miles. We are the second owners and got the car in 2000. The shocks are showing signs of failure (oil leak around the fittings) and I checked to see about replacements. STICKER SHOCK!! Between $1000 and $1200 just for the two rear shocks.

I did find that Strutmaster has replacement coil spring shocks and Arnott Industries has Air Charged Shocks that can be used as replacements.
My question is, has anyone on this thread done the conversion? If you have, what are the pros and cons of doing this conversion.
Both manufacturers say "no problem" and they can get around the warning light on the dash usig some resistors.
The price is about $275 for a pair and I can install them.



Gene
 
I personally have'nt done it but alot of the guys on the Caddy forum said that the passive shock are good enough to where eventually you won't notice, some have stated that they did'nt notice at all. My car is a 96 and I still have to check whether I have the stock air struts or the conversions being that I've only had it going on a year and the car is 11yrs old.
 
Questions about other suspension parts

I read on another Caddie forum that one owner converted to passive shocks and started having lots of squeak problems with other bushings in the suspension.
He is the only one that I have found that had the problem, but I am sure that if this car starts to have "problems" I will be "Married with NO Cadillac".


Hey, I thought you had a Dodge. :)
Anyone else have any opinions? :confused:

Gene
 
27and68Olds said:
I read on another Caddie forum that one owner converted to passive shocks and started having lots of squeak problems with other bushings in the suspension.
He is the only one that I have found that had the problem, but I am sure that if this car starts to have "problems" I will be "Married with NO Cadillac".


Hey, I thought you had a Dodge. :)
Anyone else have any opinions? :confused:

Gene

Was this forum Cadillacowners.com.:confused: I got rid of the Dodge and moved up to a Caddy. A Viper was too expensive but when I get the money I'll buy a STS-V.:D
 
I have installed the passive kit from Strutmasters' on my 94 'STS. I got the kit for the front and the rear. I kinda believe the kit from Arnott would have given a better ride(they make kits that still use air in the back), but when I found that I could buy the whole front/rear kit from strutmasters for less than $420 shipped to my door, it was easy to make my decision. I purchaced this car to keep miles off my 04' Monte SS...NOT to go broke getting the car to ride like it came off the assembly line. If that's what I wanted, I woulda baught the cheapest OE replacements I coulda found.
The strutmaster rear shocks are little baby's compared to the factory, electronic-controlled air struts. The shaft on the stockers is almost 3/4 of an inch thick. Strutmasters rear shocks(they are a shock with a spring grafted onto them to create what they call a coil-over) have a puny shaft (maybe 3/8), similar to a regular gas shock for a regular rear drive car. The shaft is covered with a piece of hose to take up the space inside the rear upper strut mount...The fronts seem to be direct replacements with the exception of not having the electronic plug in the back side.The kit looks to be designed for a cheep way out of air ride troubles. The kit doesn't have anything fancy, but will do the job. No more Cadillac ride, though. I will get used to it...
As far as rattles, squeeks, and noises. When a car has enough time on it that the suspension needs replaced, there are bound to be other items that will need replaced as well. Replacing the bad parts will make the parts that are half-way-there stick out like a sore thumb. I had noises after the passive conversion. I found most of them. One was the stearing rack. New inner tie rods($15 a side at A-Z), and an all wheel alignment, as well as 4 new tires, cured that "funny" feeling from the steering. The next noise came along with a "shimmy" at low speeds, over small square-edged bumps. Front stabilizer links were the culprit. One end mounts directly to the strut, other to the control arm. I checked them when the struts were out, seemed O.K., but didn't pay too much attention to the lower part of the link(control arm end). With the car on the ground and someone moving the car up/down while I checked made the problem obvious. A-Z could get them for $43 a side, but decided to take them off first. Thats when I realized it wasn't bad, just loose!!...Another issue solved. After that I had a few other noises I figured out(2 golf balls in the glove box, loose speakers in the trunk, etc.), but its pretty decent now. I would in no way compare it to a factory ride, though...
As for the resistors, Strutmasters says you don't need them if the small electronic shocks that attach to each corner of the cars suspension(I can't think of what they're called.) are in good condition. Also the STS has a 2 wire plug on each shock/strut. The kit's instruction were a little sketchy about were to put the resistor, and my electronic mini shock thingy's were in good shape, so I first spliced them into the plugs that were pulled from the factory struts/shocks. The "Service ride control" light still came on, so I pulled the plugs for the mini eletronic shock do-flochy's, and put the resistors in that harness... Same issue. The passive kit doesn't have any electronics to plug in, so the harness has to be deleted from the car. I still have the ride control warning light on, though. It hasn't bothered me enough to dig into it any deeper, yet. I can turn it off once it comes on, but it comes on again every 15 miles or so...
I would spend the extra dough for the Arnott kit if I had to do it over again, and money wasn't an issue. The Arnott kits are only a few hundred more than the Strutmaster kits, and still use the air-ride.
I am happy with the ride of the Strutmaster kit because of the cost. Everyone has different reasons for making thier choice, BUT, if it is for comfortability, spend the extra dough. You wont be happy with Strutmasters...
 

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