06 LS Alarm goes off for no reason

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brianvnt90

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Hello, I've been a long time lurker on here and while my LS hasn't always been trouble free, I have always been able to handle finding and fixing whatever issues have come up. But I am stumped now and couldn't find posts/answers searching here, and the service manual doesn't even acknowledge this problem! So here it whats stressing me out....

Its a 2006 LS, with 32K miles, completely stock, its basically a new car and probably one of the nicest in the country (dark cherry red, beige int, every option but THX/navigation)

Anyhow I've had it since 2010 when it had 26K mi on it, and every once in a while the alarm would go off for no reason. I never thought much of it since once every 1 or 2 months, this was not a big issue. But the past few months it would go off a couple times a week and now it goes off for no darn reason a couple times a day. (I now either disconnect the battery or leave door unlocked because of this).

So far:
- I've tested and checked the engagement of the hood and trunk sensors.....no problems I could find with them
- Charged the battery and have tried new battery.....didn't help
- Visually do see anything wrong and no other issues with the car

Not sure what to do next. Anyone else have this problem? What did you do to resolve it? How do you ready DTC trouble codes for this? Have to go to the dealer? Thanks for any help!!


BTW....adding to my stress, my equally nice '98 Mark VIII LSC just likely failed the blend door (I have no heat now), so that's yet another project!

IMG_20140928_155804_219.jpg
 
edmarquez08 said:
the door switch is going out. its inside the door lock actuator.
Click to expand...

if that was the case, I would expect while driving sometime that the door trigger would malfunction and tell you that you have a door open, even if it is only for a short time...
 
a.) welcome

2.) you sure there's no aftermarket alarm system or remote start that might be playing havoc on your factory system? might be worth looking around (under the dash etc.) for anything that looks out of place.

also check fuse and relay connectivity... any signs of water damage?
 
I've had the same problem with my 2004 LSE. Last week I sprayed some silicon oil into the passenger side lock and built up the striker bar where the latch hits the bar with a little metallic duct tape. So far no false alarms, but I fear I may have to replace the whole lock mechanism before too long. Before, it was giving me door ajar message which was a tip off that it was something in the lock mech.
 
Ebony LSE said:
I've had the same problem with my 2004 LSE. Last week I sprayed some silicon oil into the passenger side lock and built up the striker bar where the latch hits the bar with a little metallic duct tape. So far no false alarms, but I fear I may have to replace the whole lock mechanism before too long. Before, it was giving me door ajar message which was a tip off that it was something in the lock mech.
Click to expand...

That sounds like the latch mechanism as opposed to the locking mechanism, i.e. lock actuator.
 
joegr said:
But that's all in the same single assembly isn't it?
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Is it? I seem to remember just replacing the actuator on my old 2000....

edit.....
According to Tasca it looks like it is one assembly; they have the front door for ~$113.
 
I replaced the one on the driver's side (would not lock) and it was one unit (my 2004 would be same as a 2006, but I don't know about gen 1). Anyway, it was a pain in the neck to replace, so if I can avoid doing the same on the passenger side that would be nice.
 
Ebony LSE said:
so if I can avoid doing the same on the passenger side that would be nice.
Click to expand...

there is no reason to not fix the problem properly on something you know how to do, especially if you ve done it before. band aiding problem is just a terrible way to go about something, especially when some of that metallic tape gets caught somewhere it shouldn't and either the your door won't close, or possibility worse, wont open...
 
Not a 2nd gen, but anyone know where I can get a 1st gen passenger door actuator? I fear my daughter's LS needs one as the remote won't unlock the door (though it is unlockable from the inside). Tasca and many other dealer sites say "discontinued" or "no longer available" though other sites allegedly have them for mid-$300 or $510!
 
When you say works from inside, I assume that you mean the manual lock lever on the door handle, and not the power lock button.
You may have to try a u-pull-it junk yard.
 
joegr said:
When you say works from inside, I assume that you mean the manual lock lever on the door handle, and not the power lock button.
You may have to try a u-pull-it junk yard.
Click to expand...

You know, I just thought of that last night. She's in Phoenix so I'll have to ask her. I'm guessing she means the lock button works which will point me to the remote, yes???
 
LS4me said:
You know, I just thought of that last night. She's in Phoenix so I'll have to ask her. I'm guessing she means the lock button works which will point me to the remote, yes???
Click to expand...

Well, more to feature programming. You can set the LS for the remote to unlock all doors, or just unlock the driver's door on the first press of the remote unlock button. Even if set this way, pressing unlock twice should unlock the passenger doors.
 
joegr said:
Well, more to feature programming. You can set the LS for the remote to unlock all doors, or just unlock the driver's door on the first press of the remote unlock button. Even if set this way, pressing unlock twice should unlock the passenger doors.
Click to expand...

It worked that way (two presses) until it got very intermittent a year or so ago. She said the remote doesn't unlock the front passenger door at all any more. She said "my front passenger lock isn't responding to the remote & I have to use it manually." I shot her a text to find out if the interior buttons work but she hasn't replied yet. We're going to visit her next week so I should know more then....
 
New development...... I arrive and the door unlocks with remote and interior button. We try it several times and after a minute or so of lock/unlock it fails to unlock. The actuator seems like it's straining to engage so I shot some white lithium grease all over the assembly. It works for now so we'll see what happens. I have a theory that when she locks the doors (with the remote) and pushes the button the second time for affirmation she pushes too soon and "confuses" the actuator. She's going to wait a half second or so before the confirmation "push" and see if that cures the problem.

Thoughts???????
 
LS4me said:
I have a theory that when she locks the doors (with the remote) and pushes the button the second time for affirmation she pushes too soon and "confuses" the actuator. She's going to wait a half second or so before the confirmation "push" and see if that cures the problem.
Thoughts???????
Click to expand...

pushing the buttons too fast is not the problem. if it was it would affect every door, not just one (also if anything was confused, the cars horn wouldn't honk, the horn honking means that the car fully understood what it was you were trying to do), there is not really anything (computer module) in the actuator to confuse.


it really is as simple as a failing actuator
 
1LoudLS said:
pushing the buttons too fast is not the problem. if it was it would affect every door, not just one (also if anything was confused, the cars horn wouldn't honk, the horn honking means that the car fully understood what it was you were trying to do), there is not really anything (computer module) in the actuator to confuse.


it really is as simple as a failing actuator
Click to expand...

I was afraid of that.........
 
maybe you'll be lucky, Phoenix is a dirty place with all the desert sand blowing around, maybe the actuator isn't actually failing as much as the lock was getting gummed up and making the motor have to work too hard? the cleaning and lube you gave it might have been just what it needed... I would think you would be able to feel this when manual locking it from the inside (not the button) vs any of the other doors.
 
UPDATE.....Car seems fixed. It has gone 3 days now without the alarm going off. Solution = New drivers door actuator, to the tune of $280. But it gave me a chance to fix some rattles in the door panel as well (just put some black butyl on the base of each of the white push pins).

Anyhow, there is a story behind the actuator. I first tried to fix the one I had after going to 4 junkyards and finding 2000-2004 actuators are different. Removing mine, found it was gummy & dirty inside, but also found the plastic printed circuit board crammed up and not routed the way it should have been from the factory. I tried rerouting it and it just broke. Also the door ajar microswitch was damaged (metal arm, again probably a bad part since new). Make sure you put the latch in closed door position before you take it apart.

So, I then go get a new one from a Ford (not Lincoln dealer) and they had it in stock! Hmmmm. So I put it in the car and put door panel back together. Start the car up and it has a perpetual "Drivers Door Ajar" message on. F$@&!

Take it out, and get my volt meter. Pins 6 & 8 should be open circuit when door open, and closed circuit when door closed. This piece of crap new part is open circuit in both door conditions.

I then exchange it for another, I test the part in the parking lot when I left the dealer to make sure its good (it was)....then get it put in the car earlier this week. Success! And to boot, the door open and closes with a much better pop sound, more like a new car door sound.

Thanks all for your input/help.

Ok, now what to do about my Mark VIII with the bad blend door and no heat.....
 
Update 2

Not even a week went by since the new LH door actuator, and its a nice 58 deg day here, I am eating dinner and, and yep, the alarm went off again! @#$!#&%#$!!

I am out of ideas now. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
 
assuming your battery is good, hit every latch with white lithium grease from a spray can. use it liberally.
when you go to close your doors, close them hard.. basically slam them shut. the lube and extra force from slamming will throw the little switch gizmo a bit further.

battery issue will cause the same problem though. alarm will trip before the pcm calculates it doesnt have enough to start.
you can help mask the symptom by pulling the fuse from under the hood related to the horn. you will lose heated wipers if you pull it for sure, maybe lose the heated mirrors too<but dont quote me on the mirrors>
 
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