05 LS V8 not wanting to coast

LunaLincoln

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My LS does not seem to want to coast at all. Almost as if the parking break is activated. Tested the actual parking break out and it does engage and disengage (you can feel it in the brake pedal) but the damn thing will literally come to a stop if your foot is not pressing down on the accelerator.

Any suggestions?
 

jerrym3

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Just some suggestions.

A bad brake hose can cause the brakes to drag. Happened to my Galaxie. Car would not coast. Driver's side rear brake was dragging. Changed the hose, problem went away.

Or, a problem with a wheel cylinder??
 

LunaLincoln

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Just some suggestions.

A bad brake hose can cause the brakes to drag. Happened to my Galaxie. Car would not coast. Driver's side rear brake was dragging. Changed the hose, problem went away.

Or, a problem with a wheel cylinder??

It coasts fine in neutral, which makes me want to rule out the brakes dragging. Wheel cylinders I'm not too familiar with, I'd have to look into them further.
 

joegr

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It coasts fine in neutral, which makes me want to rule out the brakes dragging. Wheel cylinders I'm not too familiar with, I'd have to look into them further.

A wheel cylinder is a part of hydraulic drum brakes. The LS does not have drum brakes. Do any cars from the 2000s and up have drum brakes anymore? (Some may still have mechanical drum brakes for parking brakes (LS does not), but those wouldn't have wheel cylinders either.)

If it comes to an actual stop on a level or down hill road, then you do have a problem. (It will stop going uphill.) It seems that with you neutral test, you have narrowed it down to the transmission/torque converter.
 

LunaLincoln

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A wheel cylinder is a part of hydraulic drum brakes. The LS does not have drum brakes. Do any cars from the 2000s and up have drum brakes anymore? (Some may still have mechanical drum brakes for parking brakes (LS does not), but those wouldn't have wheel cylinders either.)

If it comes to an actual stop on a level or down hill road, then you do have a problem. (It will stop going uphill.) It seems that with you neutral test, you have narrowed it down to the transmission/torque converter.

Well, it has come to a complete stop on level ground once but It seems to vary in severity. I just had it out not 5 minutes ago and when I first started it up, no problem coasting, but after driving for a couple minutes, I noticed the "drag" is pretty severe. I'll have to see if it comes to a complete stop more in the future. If it is an issue of the transmission/torque converter, what's the plan of attack? Straight up replace? Possible servicing?
 

joegr

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Read DTCs for everything (need something like Forscan).
Diagnose fault (probably have to open transmission)
Repair, rebuild, or replace as needed/desired.
 

LunaLincoln

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Read DTCs for everything (need something like Forscan).
Diagnose fault (probably have to open transmission)
Repair, rebuild, or replace as needed/desired.

Not familiar with Forscan, appears to be an app, does it sync straight from an OBDII scanner? Sorry for the ignorance

Edit: OBDLinks MX a good option?

2nd Edit: Just thought about this, I recently (as in less than 24 hours of posting this edit) had all my fluids flushed and refilled, since this car had been sitting about 5 years before I bought it a week ago. I don't remember noticing this coasting issue before the transmission flush and refill, could that play a role? I'm not terribly well versed in auto diagnosis and repair
 
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joegr

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It could if they used the wrong fluid or the wrong amount. (Or if they did a chemical flush instead of a straight fluid exchange.)
 

1LoudLS

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Do any cars from the 2000s and up have drum brakes anymore? (Some may still have mechanical drum brakes for parking brakes (LS does not), but those wouldn't have wheel cylinders either.)

unfortunately, some econoboxes do... My wife's old 08 escape had drums on the rear of the car.

I also believe that Toyota Tacoma's also have rear drums at least up til 16
 

Andrizzle

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Is this on an incline? Because when my transmission was severely underfilled (2-3 quarts), the car would literally slip out of gear on inclines and it was very weird feeling. You would have to get enough momentum to clear the hill so the transmission would re-engage once it was back to more level ground. Also when I was underfilled, I would get the 'Check Transmission' warning during severe slipping instances like I described above. Especially when moving the car from D/N/R events.

But if yours is just coasting on a flat and wants to stop - sounds like something else could be up.
 

04_Sport_LS

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2nd Edit: Just thought about this, I recently (as in less than 24 hours of posting this edit) had all my fluids flushed and refilled
In your other thread you said the fluids were "replaced"... now you are saying the tranny was flushed.

As Joe asked... what kind of flush? Did the dealer do it, or a private shop,,, or yourself? If a chemical flush by a private shop... It probably dislodged a bunch of debris, and it got into the valve body. If a private shop without the proper tools... they also may not have gotten the fluid amount correct.

Either way... it sounds like a valve body issue, and that something isn't disengaging properly.
 

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