05 lincoln ls dccv/heater valve

[Indo93]

Hello guys okay to start off, im not sure if i looked at all of the threads but need help on the dccv, my 05 lincoln ls v8 recently started to blow hot air out the passanger side
And then blew out a fuse (red 10) i have a

Replaced it. Still hot air, did a self check an got back codes 12/65 & 27/98
I took it to go get it checked(just in case) Shop said same thing.

So 1st i want to know.

1. How to remove/replace dccv
2. Is it necessary to bleed system when doing this
3. Will replacing this fix my issue

I seen a few videos. But would like some more simple step by step if someone on the board has had the same issue or has replaced it them selves. Its hot down here in tx and cant keep riding around with my kids in this car heat! Thanks guys to all with advice!

 

[RigsLS]

12 65 you can forget about.

Yes you will need to rebleed the system.

Air will be introduced when changing out the Dual Climate Control Valve. Even if you pinch lines, air still gets in.

I'd recommend replacing the Auxiliary Coolant Flow pump while you're in there. It's just going to fail soon thereafter if you don't.

The DCCV is blowing fuses because the passenger side solonoid is stuck open.

Use OEM parts only!!!!!

You'll need to get a flexible long range clasp pliers to get the lines off the DCCV.

You could pinch the lines so as not to dump the whole system of coolant. You'd still need to top it up and bleed correctly

Search the forum on samples on how it's done if unsure.

GLWR

 

[joegr]

...The DCCV is blowing fuses because the passenger side solonoid is stuck open...

Actually, no. The amount of current drawn by the valve has nothing to do with it freely moving or being stuck in any position. Both valves just have a simple solenoid actuating them. It's blowing the fuse because coolant has leaked past the internal seals and into the windings of that solenoid. There it has corroded the wires and insulation on them such that some of the windings are shorted together and/or to the metal housing of the solenoid. This increases current draw (a little or a lot depending on how many windings are shorted out) and blows the fuse.
It's possible (likely in this case) that the valve isn't stuck at all. Instead, too many of the solenoid windings are shorted for the solenoid to be strong enough to pull that valve closed. Of course, once the fuse blows, neither solenoid can function (so both valves remain open) and the compressor clutch (same fuse) can't actuate either.

 

[RigsLS]

Never stop learning from you Joe, thanks.
Details details details.

 

[Indo93]

12 65 you can forget about.

Yes you will need to rebleed the system.

Air will be introduced when changing out the Dual Climate Control Valve. Even if you pinch lines, air still gets in.

I'd recommend replacing the Auxiliary Coolant Flow pump while you're in there. It's just going to fail soon thereafter if you don't.

The DCCV is blowing fuses because the passenger side solonoid is stuck open.

Use OEM parts only!!!!!

You'll need to get a flexible long range clasp pliers to get the lines off the DCCV.

You could pinch the lines so as not to dump the whole system of coolant. You'd still need to top it up and bleed correctly

Search the forum on samples on how it's done if unsure.

GLWR

Hey would the aux coolant flow pump cause the bleed valve not to stream of coolant? About to start the weekend cooling system over haul as i got most of the parts an hoses now. Just waiting on the pump

 

[joegr]

Hey would the aux coolant flow pump cause the bleed valve not to stream of coolant? About to start the weekend cooling system over haul as i got most of the parts an hoses now. Just waiting on the pump

At idle, it might. At the 2K RPM step, it shouldn't matter.