02 sport issues

D

Dykzeulb

Active LVC Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2012
Messages
75
Reaction score
0
Location
Kansas City, Mo
My wife and I just bought an 02 with 106,000 miles.

I've noticed when she starts it, it seems like it revs high. V8

Door handles loose outside (pisses me off)

Air bag light, throwing driver side code, but steering controls all work?

Any help is greatly appreciated, meanwhile I will be reading up on the other 1000s of problems the ls has...
 
LOL....Give a new member a break Shred. We are all going to need each other from time to time. None of these cars are new anymore and we all get corrected from time to time with a not so well crafted response to a post. A little egg on the face seems to be our way of checks and balances but we all are passionate about the LS so we play fair and help each other regardless. :)

First, welcome to LVC.

1) How many rpms are u turning before the idle settles? All of our cars do idle "up", if you will, once started and then settles to the normal idle. It could be normal or something. Again, how many rpms?

2) is the handle hanging loose or just has some play? Have you pulled the door panel, or had someone,
to see if it is something correctable from the inside?

3) Watch the airbag light when u start the car. If it blinks, count the first series of blinks(may be 3 of them) followed by a pause and then another series of blinks(maybe 2). It will do this 5 times and then illuminate consistently. It sounds as if you have a common issue and have a broken or dirty wire under your driver seat which is part of the system. If that is what it is, it is not to hard to identify and relatively easy to fix. First place to start is to identify the number of blinks you get and then post with your results. The other path to take is to understand that your clockspring may be about to go south.

Keep us posted....and again, welcome.
 
Code 32, traded my problem Dakota for the Lincoln ls that had 300k miles on it. Didn't realize the common issue was long until after but well worth it, these are all minor issues IMO. Door handles on the outside wiggle they open and close fine, but wiggle either while they are pulled out or of you wiggle them while shut, just drives me nuts
 
I found the same thing via Google, but I also was told about the same code being thrown if there was an issue under the driver side seat, and since we dont have any issues in our steering wheel controls or horn, I assumed it wasnt the clock spring...you really think it is though?
 
Dykzeulb said:
I found the same thing via Google, but I also was told about the same code being thrown if there was an issue under the driver side seat, and since we dont have any issues in our steering wheel controls or horn, I assumed it wasnt the clock spring...you really think it is though?
Click to expand...

It could be either.
Please note that the clock spring has separate circuits for the airbag, horn, radio, cruise control, and button lighting. It's very possible for one to fail long before the others do.
 
I would start with the seat. When mine went(the first time and currently) the cruise control was the first to go. Last night I noticed my horn is now gone as well. Crazy thing is that this clockspring is only 8 months old and a brand new oem replacement. Worked fine til my engine replacement. Not sure what, if any, correlation that had to do with it but that is when my latest issue began.
 
Dykzeulb said:
I found the same thing via Google, but I also was told about the same code being thrown if there was an issue under the driver side seat, and since we dont have any issues in our steering wheel controls or horn, I assumed it wasnt the clock spring...you really think it is though?
Click to expand...

As joegr mentions, it can be either. Since you can check the connections to the seat and the airbag in the seat pretty easily and more cheaply, start with that. As usual, the disclaimer: disconnect your battery negative terminal before doing anything with the seat or airbag connectors.
 
Which connectors do I need to be looking at? I am looking at replacing the pass side regulator today.. so maybe I will take a look at this...
 
Dykzeulb said:
Which connectors do I need to be looking at? I am looking at replacing the pass side regulator today.. so maybe I will take a look at this...
Click to expand...

There are two:

Underseat connector. It's yellow, and connects the seat to the wiring harness under the floor. Run the seat all the way forward and look for it from behind the seat. I think if you search for "underseat connector" you'll find a thread with an excellent picture of it. Lots of people have had problems with this going all the way back to 2000.

Side airbag connector. You have to take the seatback off and it's at shoulder level on the outside of the seat frame, under the seat foam. To my knowledge I'm the only one who's had a problem with this connector.
 
marcredd said:
... Crazy thing is that this clockspring is only 8 months old and a brand new oem replacement. Worked fine til my engine replacement. Not sure what, if any, correlation that had to do with it but that is when my latest issue began.
Click to expand...

The steering shaft has to be disconnected to drop the engine. The steering wheel doesn't lock on the LS, unlike on most cars. The service manual has warnings about finding some way to lock the steering wheel so that it can't turn while the engine replacement work is done. I'll bet that they didn't bother to lock it, and while working they turned the shaft far enough to over stress the clockspring. (If the steering wheel is turned more than the normal lock to lock turning range, the clockspring will break.)
 
Dykzeulb said:
Code 32, traded my problem Dakota for the Lincoln ls that had 300k miles on it. Didn't realize the common issue was long until after but well worth it, these are all minor issues IMO. Door handles on the outside wiggle they open and close fine, but wiggle either while they are pulled out or of you wiggle them while shut, just drives me nuts
Click to expand...

oooh, my mistake I misinterpreted "meanwhile I will be reading up on the other 1000s of problems the ls has" as your particular car having a plethora of other issues as opposed to LSes in general. Sorry didnt mean to come off as a jerk.
 
joegr said:
The steering shaft has to be disconnected to drop the engine. The steering wheel doesn't lock on the LS, unlike on most cars. The service manual has warnings about finding some way to lock the steering wheel so that it can't turn while the engine replacement work is done. I'll bet that they didn't bother to lock it, and while working they turned the shaft far enough to over stress the clockspring. (If the steering wheel is turned more than the normal lock to lock turning range, the clockspring will break.)
Click to expand...

That would explain it completely.
 
Did a quick google search and I pulled up valve cover issues and coils, since I wasn't specific it didn't pull up the other issues. I'm ford all the way, but the ls is a high maintenance vehicle, my mechanic at ford told me, if you think your ls doesn't have a problem, I guarantee you it does, it's just one thing after another, and I suppose it's all personal preference. I like oem, and keeping everything in tip top shape.
 
Dykzeulb said:
Did a quick google search and I pulled up valve cover issues and coils, since I wasn't specific it didn't pull up the other issues. I'm ford all the way, but the ls is a high maintenance vehicle, my mechanic at ford told me, if you think your ls doesn't have a problem, I guarantee you it does, it's just one thing after another, and I suppose it's all personal preference. I like oem, and keeping everything in tip top shape.
Click to expand...

Weird. I haven't done other than regular maintenance on my LSes.


Here we go again!
 
Hahaha...not quite

Replaced the front pass regulator, bulbs in the floor shifter, pulled the grill, removed chrome and have it painted a stainless color.. starting pulling off the purpled tint on the rear window...that was probably the biggest PITA of the day, not to mention the :q:q:q:q stunk like ass.

Door handle play just seems to be from old worn handles, no big deal, and I have decided to live with it, at least until I find a donor car.

Rev gets to about 2000RPMS and drops back down to a correct level, takes about 30 seconds. Normal?
 
Next I will be replacing the headlight housings, and getting the entire car shot in either black, or the existing color.

45a578d0.jpg
 
I bought a '72 Pinto new and took it back the next morning to have a badly-assembled heater hose re-oriented. It never needed any attention from a dealer after that day. That was the most trouble-free car I have ever owned.

My '02 LS Sport, bought new, has just less than 150K miles on it at present. I took it back to the dealer every 5K miles for the first 40K as they were doing the oil changes under the purchase agreement. They may have done some sort of warrantee work at that time period, but if so it was so minor that I have no recollection.

There have been several up-keep-type issues since---coils and plugs, an inner door handle, and an alternator and battery come to mind---but nothing else and nothing overwhelming. And as I said, I am very close to 150K miles.

KS
 
I agree, just seems like little stuff that breaks, similar to everything that breaks in the town cars, plastic clips, door handles, electric motors, blower motors, air bag lights, regulators, and so on. Nothing I cant handle my self. I never though I would own a lincoln over 2000 I would feel comfortable working on, but this one isnt half bad.
 
You know that you you can re finish those headlights and make them new again. There's a thread a where a member refinished his headlights and they looked brand new after he was done. It's simple, I would say invest in the 3m restoration kit first before you try to by new headlights. You can pick it up at your local automotive store.
 
Is there such a thing? I dont know the difference. It has a slap shifter in it and the v8, and rides like it has a stiffer suspension.


Also, we have refinished the headlamps 2 times, buffing wet sanding and so forth, unfortunately they have some spider cracks in the lenses, not going through, but just from being beat to hell in the sun, like the clear coat on the body. The passenger side turned out ok, drivers is full of moisture, I could re seal, but the lense is still dried out and junk.
 
I should have taken before and after pics. I just refinished my LS lenses with the 3M kit. Turned out great. Took around 4 hours though to get a really good finish. If possible I'd advice you to take the lamps off as the LS lenses are very angular and difficult to sand without the bumper getting in the way.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 139 (members: 0, guests: 139)
Back
Top