So just recently as the temperature gets colder the car doesn’t want to turn over and start. As it’s gotten warmer it’s starting to turn over. So I’m able to crank it but it only stays running for about a minute then it dies. Try to restart it and it won’t restart again. Not sure if it’s the starter or possibly a air flow problem. I’m not sure what would be causing it or even where to start. Any ideas?
00 LS Shutting Off after being Cranked
- Thread starter 00LincLS
- Start date
DaleGrib
Dedicated LVC Member
I would first start by reading your codes with a code reader to see what codes are pending or are set.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Well, it's not the starter if it starts and runs for a bit then stalls.
Is it flooding? Do you smell gasoline when it stalls?
What about the IAC? Your symptoms would fit with a sticking IAC, but there are other possibilities too. One of those is a failing alternator. What is your battery voltage while the engine is running?
Is it flooding? Do you smell gasoline when it stalls?
What about the IAC? Your symptoms would fit with a sticking IAC, but there are other possibilities too. One of those is a failing alternator. What is your battery voltage while the engine is running?
DaleGrib
Dedicated LVC Member
Also I know this might sound a bit silly but how long has it been since you changed your fuel filter? Also check to make sure all the stuff is plugged in on the intake stuff. I have seen them crank similar to that when they were not plugged in and people forget to plug them things in more often than you think.
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AmsterDutch
Dedicated LVC Member
Does it crank over when you try to restart it?
Yes it cranks over when I try to start it. It’ll turn over, start and stay cranked for about 30 seconds now and then dies. If I try to crank it right after it dies it just turns over but doesn’t start again.
I would love to see the codes it’s putting out I don’t have a code reader and since it doesn’t stay cranked for more than 30 seconds now I can’t get it to a place that has one.
I don’t think that it’s flooding and there’s no smell of gasoline when it stalls. I hadn’t thought of the IAC. I did recently replace my battery for a new one. So the voltage should be good.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
I'm looking for the charging (alternator) voltage, not the standing battery voltage. You can get a cheap multi-meter for $10 to $20.
You can get an OBD II interface for around $20, and Forscan for free.
You are very unlikely to be able to get anywhere and keep this car up without a scan tool and a multi-meter.
Thanks where can I find these for those prices? Local auto store or someplace online? Cause your right I do need them for better information and upkeep.
DaleGrib
Dedicated LVC Member
USB ELM327 OBD2 Modified For Ford HS-CAN MS-CAN Mazda Diagnostic Forscan Scanne | eBay
You need a ELM327 that has a switch or the auto switch built in. The switch is for the CAN system of the car and it's made for Ford cars. There is newer versions than this but this is one the cheapest in the USA as far as I could find. And this works great with ForScan you can even flash some of the modules of the car if you replace them with this tool to avoid a trip to the dealer. And the codes are all on the ford site for programming the modules.
And
https://www.amazon.com/AstroAI-Digital-Multimeter-Voltage-Tester/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=sr_1_6?crid=32T4HQBA2BJ6F&keywords=multimeter&qid=1550604901&s=gateway&sprefix=multim,aps,156&sr=8-6
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
This adapter works too.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N18TOFB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N18TOFB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Grandam88
LVC Member
Not trying to hijack this thread but I have an elm327 obd adapter. I use forscan lite . There is not a switch on it.
Can y'all elaborate on what all you can do with the forscan and a obd dongle with the switch??
Can you flash the pcm?
Can y'all elaborate on what all you can do with the forscan and a obd dongle with the switch??
Can you flash the pcm?
DaleGrib
Dedicated LVC Member
What year is your LS I think for the most part the switch is for a GEN 2 LS. I have not had to use the switch on my 2001 Gen 1. You can read the stats on a lot of systems with live data, you can read and reset your codes, You can bleed your ABS system with it and even program car keys. It will flash the modules such as the ABS module etc.
Grandam88
LVC Member
I have Gen 2 , 2006 .
I read codes, clear codes, test body modules like mirror and seats.
I am wondering what all forscan is capable of.
Especially transmission stuff. Having issues with the trans.
I read codes, clear codes, test body modules like mirror and seats.
I am wondering what all forscan is capable of.
Especially transmission stuff. Having issues with the trans.
AmsterDutch
Dedicated LVC Member
Have you taken off the cold air inlet pipe/tube connected to the intake and tried dumping/pouring gas into throttle body to see if it's fuel related problems?
AmsterDutch
Dedicated LVC Member
Do you hear the fuel pump turn on when you turn the key to power position?
AmsterDutch
Dedicated LVC Member
Just because the battery was replaced and is newer doesn’t mean jack ...buy a multi-meter and test the battery ...put the multi-meter to 200 Volts red on positive black on negative ...report back with the readings
Yes you can hear the fuel pump turn on when you turn the key to the power position. When I get a multi-meter I’ll be sure to let you know the readings immediately. No I haven’t taken off the cold air inlet/pipe tube and poured gas into the throttle body. I’ve hit the red fuel reset button in the kick panel on the driverside.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
No reason to try to reset the crash switch if you hear the fuel pump, it not tripped.
Please don't pour gasoline into the intake. Use a can of starting spray instead, but be careful either way.
(Gasoline will pool in the bottom of the intake and could cause big problems once you get it moving and hit a bump or go up/down hill.)
I wasn’t going to pour anything into the intake. Since idk exactly what the problem is I’m not going to do something that could cause more problems or damage. I haven’t hit the switch yet. Wasn’t sure if I needed to since it was cranking and you can hear the switch when you turn it to the power position.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Yes you can hear the switch when it’s turned to the power position.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
You mean a single click sound?
It's a latching switch that is only ever supposed to switch to the off position if the car is in a crash. How are you switching it off to be able to switch it back on? Are you kicking it? Whatever you are doing, you really shouldn't. It's only meant to operate a few times in its entire lifetime.
I’m not hitting any switch. I put the key in and turn it on (not cracking it). You can here a clicking sound like something is opening. It happens for a few seconds then stops. I’m not switching anything on or off. When I say the power position I’ll talking about putting the key into the ignition, turning it so the car comes on but not cranking it, and hearing a switch or clicking when that happens.