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PS: What's the list on this thing? $46 or so? I can take a $20K, 20,000 mile LS and do a LOT with the left over $25k... like buy a brand new S-Type R 4.2 and spend the time to crack the damned computer and make it work... and have a better nav system, better tires, better wheels, the list...

Me personally, I'll take that twinforce motor and start messing with a microcontroller and try to get an LS up and running with it... I just don't see the extra value in rebadging a Taurus as a Lincoln... granted, the Taurus is a decent car (as was the OLD S80 chassis its based on,) but WHY oh...

Possibly give Torrie a shout... he has just about every part out there for the LS... or at least he can get it... he MAY even send you a nice little jpg so you can pick your part out of the picture ;-)

Quick note about using stock head unit with aftermarket sub/amp combo... get a Re-Q or Re-Q5... its a pain to wire into each door speaker, but it keeps the bass from doing that compression/roll off thing that the stock head unit does when you turn the car up... and all the stock controls...

I'm kinda likin' the middle one... but the top one looks WAY too much like an early 'Vette to me...

Thank you, sir... since they were ALL oil soaked, should I make sure ALL of them get replaced? I wonder if I should dye-dot all of them in some way to verify that the dealer changes every damned one...

Interesting trip to the dealer... The tech said that all eight boots were soaked in oil, but only replaced the valve cover gasket, plugs, and the BOOTS on the coils, but did not replace a single coil, saying that they all passed testing. It was my understanding from reading the TSB that if...

Hmmmm... it might be some thing handy to write up in the tech section about just a basic brake job... I think I'm gonna sit down and write one with my dad... EBC rotors and Red stuff pads are on the car... GAWD do they smoke durring breakin! But the pedal modulation and feel is superb, as...

thanx for the advice... as a clarification, i was refering to dot 5.1, NOT the silicone DOT 5 crap... :-P As for changing the fluid, call me overly anal, but my track cars get new fluid every two trips to the track and my street cars get it every 6 months or so... overkill? possibly... but...

So, I don't have a manual handy, but I'm taking my car over to the Machine Shop I used to work at (my dad still works there) and we're changing rotors and pads early in the morning... I'm trying to find out if there's any funky torx sockets or anything beyond normal metric or SAE hex bolts...

During the week back and forth to work, I'm at 12 to 13... but on the highway, heading up to Sedona or Payson, I'm getting mid 20s... but i think i have a bad coil or two, so that could account for the crappy mileage...

Check previous threads about the DCCV... :-) its doing the same thing on mine... I'm still trying to get an answer about if anyone has ever been able to clean it or if ya just have to shell out the $150 for a new one....

Too bad I've been heading up to Payson or Sedona or Flag every weekend... I'd have been chatting with all y'all sooner... so, does anyone here get together ever?

My two cents (and my full plan) is to buy a SECOND LS, mileage not a concern... but I just saw a 2002 for $3000... anyhow, STRIP it... seats, panels, motor, EVERYTHING... then I'm thinking 4.6 NA or small SC... just tweak at every part... no, it won't really have luxury in it anymore...

5 months with no further data on running muflerless... hmmm... has anyone else tried? I'm more looking for dyno results, not just seat of the pants... also, what would I need to have torrie change with my xCal profiles to take advantage of the lower backpresure? Thanx in advance for any solid...

So, what about before and after dyno runs? :-) Also, did you change your tune any to take advantage of the freer flowing exhaust?

Does cleaning work? Has anyone tried just cleaning their DCCV? I'm kinda curious to see if that would work....