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Yes, absolutely the Mark VIII is designed to retard timing to reduce power in elevated engine temperatures. It is not as sophisticated as a 'limp home' mode but it will loose power. IMHO, there is air trapped in the coolant system. Typically the temp gauge will lie to you because the...

That is thankfully uncharted territory for me and I don't have any knowledge of any tips or tricks. I don't believe it is a very common repair (unlike the Gen2 blend door issue). Sorry I can't be of any further help.

Best of luck finding traction with the Kenne Bell. LOL

When you jump the pins on connector C2, you are grounding the motor drive circuit and it will not stop until you disconnect the ground. In operation, the feedback potentiometer indicates the position of the AC Temperature Control Door and it is commanded to move by grounding the proper motor...

Helm Inc., the OEM source no longer publishes manuals for the Mark VIII but you should be able to score a set off eBay.

On the 96, it's not a 'blend door' but technically known as an AC Air Temperature Control Door and is completely different from the infamous 97-98 blend door. There is an extensive troubleshooting section for the system starting with the EATC unit self test. Diagnostic Trouble Code "02"...

I've always understood the rear height sensor was different from the fronts. Quote from the shop manual:

No one makes a specific kit for these cars. Basically most any kit for a modular engine can be made to work. The KB 2.1L can certainly work but you will need someone to tune it.

Usually just need to replace the four? rubber compressor mounts. They start to dry rot and then the compressor hammers them to oblivion. Been too long since I've done it to know where to get them now.

My late (RIP) brother-in-law 'borrowed' my Cadillac once. He claimed it quit running and we had it towed to a garage. Long story short, the big 500 cu.in. engine was seized. Upon teardown and inspection, I went to the garage to survey the damage. All 8 pistons were literally melted and obviously...

I'm not sure it would be a likely fix but I recall years ago when I was working in our fleet shop, we would often fix a myriad of mysterious AC issues by having the AC service guys replace the O-rings on all the AC connections. Now normally they would evacuate the AC system and pull a vacuum on...

Prior to replacing my '93 halogen housing with '96 HID housings, I found the best results were with the Sylvania Silver Stars in the low beams and a set of modified HIR bulbs in the high beams both with relays wired in for direct battery voltage.

You need to verify fuel pressure at the fuel rail. When you turn the key on, the fuel pump should run for a few seconds. You can cycle the key on/off a few times to "prime" the fuel system with pressure. Remove the schrader valve cap on the fuel rail and hook up a fuel pump test gauge to verify...

Don't tell my '93 that, it's had the '96 EATC functioning in it for close to 2 decades. :eek:

My Innova code scanner requires a separate menu selection to read ABS DTCs.

I cannot locate the part number(s) but the '96 EATC unit is preferred. All '93-'96 EATC units will interchange. The '97-'98 EATC units are not compatible with the '93-'96 models. '94-'94 have the weak front buttons while the '95 was similar but improved. The '96 used more solid oval buttons.

You'll find your problem from tracing the vacuum line from the intake manifold tee fitting. Most will break or separate right at the tee fitting.

To the best of my knowledge, the "California" moniker is simply a dealer dress-up, much like the "Presidential" and others. I wouldn't recommend swapping PCMs unless by chance they have the same strategy or PCM catch code.

Oh well, thanks for the reply.

"Pearl White" 96? What's the exterior color code? "WK" Opal Opalescent or "WT" Performance White If "WK", I may be interested in the mirrors and who knows what else.