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But congratulations. I thought I might be the first

Parked mine at 282k. Needs cooling system rebuild. Have all parts but don't have time at the moment. Still runs. Been driving the truck instead. That has over 260k hard miles. 1995 F150 step side 4x4 5.8L

And it sounds like your starter may be bad. Either that, or the engine is tied up. Put a socket and ratchet on the bottom pulley and see if the pulley will rotate. If it does...your starter is probably bad.

No. The computer system doesn't monitor the starter. You said the battery died. You need to start diagnostics with a fully charged battery.

Catching up... bad starter and or solenoid

When was the last time the fuel filter was changed???

The factory coils eventually go bad... causing issues with the PCM. That causes the PCM to eventually need rebuilding. That causes a relearn by the PCM to get everything back in sync. Give it some time to settle in under normal driving conditions, so drive gently until things smooth out.

Won't work. 2005 is gen 2. Gen 1 housing is completly different.

That test was done over a decade ago.

That's not true. I have a good DVM that has a lead that measures temps. I tried coil covers on... and coil covers off. The difference was negligible.

I use a box end wrench that just barely fits over the t-stat, then rotate the stat "wings" in place, in the housing You get better leverage that way.

Over and over... and over.

The reason for replacing everything in one shot... Is because all of those new parts will last for 70k (or more). Why waste time and effort going back in to replace one part???

You still have air in the cooling system. Try bleeding the system with the nose of the car pointed down.

The hum you are hearing is the auxillary coolant pump. It will run and circulate the engine coolant until the temp drops to a certain point. You are probably looking at a complete cooling system rebuild.

As an afterthought... Did you bleed the cooling system with the nose of the car downhill. The heater core can get "air locked" if you didn't. Air always tries to find the highest point.

Look for a Gates 41528E... Or a Rein WPA0034. Those are Jag aftermarket. IIRC... Advance auto can special order the REIN. Either of those will work, but the orientation of the aux pump might be different than OEM.

Well ... If the first shop said the engine was 1.5 gallons low, then there has to be a leak somewhere, and it's most likely NOT the head gaskets.

If the coolant is low, it could potentially damage the water pump by letting it run dry.

That hose is about 3/8 in diameter. It's no wonder you have been leaking engine coolant the whole time