Needless fuel pump replacement update. V.pics

Myco

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Pump the way it went in
2011-12-22120019.jpg

2011-12-22120031.jpg


It works!! and nothing broke! HOLY CRAP!! Thanks to everyone who gave suggestions and input. Merry Christmas to you all. :)

throttle response is WAY up. No hot start issue so far. Gas meter works fine so far.. I'll know if it's been corrected after I fill up (before I always had 1.5 gallons in the tank left when the meter said empty)

And got to hear my car without exhaust .. droool...
 
Ahhh the mandatory fire up w/o pipes.... a thing every car guy must do atleast once
 
I think I am gonna finally get around to doing mine this weekend. Looking forward to improved performance
 
Went out this morning and car was OUT OF GAS. Had to put a gallon in to get it to the store to fill it up. Took 17 gallons total (where is that last gallon?)


Also, the checkvalve in the first picture I guess doesn't work because I have 0 PSI when the car is off. I used to keep 20 PSI in the fuel rails.

edit: or I didn't torque the little bolts that go into the top of the fuel pump bucket ( I gave it a good 1-2 quarter turn .. didn't want to break anything.)

edit2: only getting 30psi while idling. I"m guessing I have a hole in a hose somewhere. :-(
 
edit2: only getting 30psi while idling. I"m guessing I have a hole in a hose somewhere. :-(

With the FPR vacuum connected, that sounds about right. With the vacuum line disconnected from the FPR it should be right around 39.5.
 
Ok, your right. 39.5 when the FPR vacuum disconnected. (not that I was doubting you)

Why do I loose vacuum then when the car's off? Shouldn't that check valve keep that from happening? IMO I'm guessing I do have a tiny hole somewhere in that new line.
 
Ok, your right. 39.5 when the FPR vacuum disconnected. (not that I was doubting you)

Why do I loose vacuum then when the car's off? Shouldn't that check valve keep that from happening? IMO I'm guessing I do have a tiny hole somewhere in that new line.

I'm guessing that you're really asking about the fuel pressure, not vacuum.

If the car starts and runs ok, I wouldn't worry about residual pressure.
 
Ok, just to answer some of these questions.

From a cold start the car takes an extra 3-4 cranks to start than it did before. It's not an immediate start like the last pump.

I'm assuming that the reason for this is that the fuel is bleeding back into the fuel tank after the car turns off. With the OEM fuel pump when the car was off there was still 20psi kept in the rails. I'm guessing this is because there is a check-valve built into the OEM pump.

The reason I used the white line from the SVT pump is because there is a check-valve built into the line and I wanted to keep that assuming they put it there because the SVT pump doesnt have the check-valve built into the pump.

Roadboss: Thanks, didn't think about replacing the fuel filter after the replacement. I'll do that.
 

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