Ac compressor (video)

Lincoln Jealous

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tried to upload a video of the rattle from the ac compressor, just looking for advice, should i think about replacing the whole unit, because it seems like the rattle is coming from the pulley, you can see some dark sticky oil has leaked in a few places, but its not a constant leak, if its just the pulley and i could just only replace that, of course it would be easier then the whole ac compressor. when i start the car i hear the noise right away, with or with out the ac on, thats what makes me think its the pulley, but i can hear some grinding on the inside so im not sure, just looking for advice, and how easy is it to replace, thanks
 
i got this same probblem, rattles like crazy, my mechanic said i would have to replaced the whole a/c compressor part, my boy said i just need the clutch, cause the pulley/cluthc failed im really low on dough on cant pay for a compressor, but i might be able to afford the clutch, lincoln jealous, how long have you had that noise?
 
i got this same probblem, rattles like crazy, my mechanic said i would have to replaced the whole a/c compressor part, my boy said i just need the clutch, cause the pulley/cluthc failed im really low on dough on cant pay for a compressor, but i might be able to afford the clutch, lincoln jealous, how long have you had that noise?

I could be wrong, but it sounds more like the compressor than the clutch. The safe option is to replace both as a unit.
 
thanks joegr, i feel like this ac compressor is shot because it leaked alot of black sticky oil too, im just a little nervous about having to replace it because i know it involves coolants and fluids and vacuums, im not sure if i have all the correct tools to do this myself, do you know of some things i should pick up? im just going to buy a new compressor, but im not too sure about the oil and receiver/drier things, im going to research this some more before i take the old on off, because even that im not sure, i know i would start with the belt, then next would be the fluids to unhook the hoses? any help is appreciated thanks!

silver bullet ive had this problem for about a week now, at first when i heard it i thought it was the beginning of something bad so i havent been driving it, but since its just the ac compressor, the car is still drivable just cant use the ac
 
thanks joegr, i feel like this ac compressor is shot because it leaked alot of black sticky oil too, im just a little nervous about having to replace it because i know it involves coolants and fluids and vacuums, im not sure if i have all the correct tools to do this myself, do you know of some things i should pick up? im just going to buy a new compressor, but im not too sure about the oil and receiver/drier things, im going to research this some more before i take the old on off, because even that im not sure, i know i would start with the belt, then next would be the fluids to unhook the hoses? any help is appreciated thanks!

silver bullet ive had this problem for about a week now, at first when i heard it i thought it was the beginning of something bad so i havent been driving it, but since its just the ac compressor, the car is still drivable just cant use the ac
On any compressor failure, you need to replace all the filters and flush out all of the components in the system. Otherwise, the bits of metal that the failing compressor probably threw into the system will quickly cause the failure of the new compressor. I wouldn't risk the home-brew route on this, but that's just me.
 
i agree, do you think theres a schematic for a gen 1 ac compressor replacement? ive used the search feature and ive been a few members do this job their self, i believe i can do it, i just need alittle guidance or just a shop manual for that part. but i appreciate any advice
 
WARNING If installing a new air conditioning compressor due to an internal failure of the old unit, you must carry out the following procedures to remove contamination from the air conditioning system.


If A/C flushing equipment is available, carry out the flushing of the air conditioning system prior to installing a new air conditioning compressor. If A/C flushing equipment is not available, carry out filtering of the air conditioning system after a new air conditioning compressor has been installed. Install a new thermostatic expansion valve, as directed by the A/C flushing or filtering procedure. Install a new receiver/drier, as directed by the A/C flushing or filtering procedure.

NOTE If installing a new A/C compressor, the A/C clutch disc and hub , A/C compressor pulley and A/C clutch field coil must be inspected and transferred from the old unit to the new unit if suitable for reuse.

1. If flushing of the air conditioning system has not been performed, recover the refrigerant.
2. Remove the air cleaner outlet tube.
3. Remove the drive belt from the A/C clutch pulley.
4. Raise the vehicle.
5. Remove the screws and remove the sight shield.
6. Remove the screw and position the power steering hose aside.
7. Remove the bolt and reposition the A/C manifold and tube assembly.
8. Disconnect the connector.
9. Remove the three bolts and lower the A/C compressor.


To install:

1. If a new A/C compressor is to be installed, the clutch assembly must be transferred from the old unit to the new unit.
2. If filtering of the refrigerant system is not to be performed, add the correct amount of PAG Refrigerant Compressor Oil (R-134a Systems) F7AZ-19589-DA (Motorcraft YN-12-C) or equivalent to the new A/C compressor..
3. Lubricate the O-ring seal with PAG Refrigerant Compressor Oil (R-134a Systems) F7AZ-19589-DA (Motorcraft YN-12-C) or equivalent.
4. If filtering of the refrigerant system is not to be performed, evacuate, charge and leak test the refrigerant system.
5. Install the A/C compressor with the three bolts.
6. Connect the connector.
7. Install the A/C manifold and tube assembly.
8. Replace the power steering hose aside.
9. Install the drive belt on the A/C clutch pulley.
10. Replace the air cleaner outlet tube.



anything else? i know theres more i should know thanks

0900c152801edec7.jpg


0900c152801edec8.jpg
 
At the very least, you'll have to pull a good vacuum on the system before recharging it. You can take it somewhere, or you can rent a vacuum pump.
We'll all just assume that you are having the R-134 that's in there now recovered and not just venting it into the air. Please don't publicly alter that assumption.
 
how to test a air compressor?

well i finally have all the stuff to finally convert the rear to springs.... the comp doesnt turn on. i get a instant check air ride messege. i forget what the connection looked like on the comp so im not sure if i could take it out and hook up some leads to test it.
 
oh yuk.. Ford AC Black Death.
Sometimes if not handled properly will kill a new compressor or severely shorten it's life.

you pretty much have to replace it all, and pray.
 
well i finally have all the stuff to finally convert the rear to springs.... the comp doesnt turn on. i get a instant check air ride messege. i forget what the connection looked like on the comp so im not sure if i could take it out and hook up some leads to test it.

I posted my reply and saw yours above.. and was like WTF?
I posted in the wrong damned thread.

Are you trying to make me have a bad mood?
(LMAO)
 
quick question, if i get a smaller serp. belt to avoid the ac compressor (for now), will this affect the defroster, like when it rains, will i be able to clear my windows, without the ac compressor or is this all part of the same unit, i need the defroster to work, basically heat, does taking the ac compressor out the loop get rid of heating options too, or is it just cold air, thanks
 
will this affect the defroster, like when it rains, will i be able to clear my windows, without the ac compressor or is this all part of the same unit,

yes
no
no
yes

your welcome

P.S. ,'s are not a replacement for ?'s
 
quick question, if i get a smaller serp. belt to avoid the ac compressor (for now), will this affect the defroster, like when it rains, will i be able to clear my windows, without the ac compressor or is this all part of the same unit, i need the defroster to work, basically heat, does taking the ac compressor out the loop get rid of heating options too, or is it just cold air, thanks

You would still have a working defroster and heat. You would no longer have dehumidification, so window defogging would not work so well.
 
im willing to drive around with the sunroof open and windows down when it gets hot, i know i should replace the compressor, but its just a luxury thing to have, i dont need cold ac, but i just dont want to deal with a foggy windshield sometime, im just trying to do the quick fix, my ac compressor is shot, still blows cold ac, but it makes a loud grinding noise and alittle black oil has leaked, if i could just get a smaller belt for now, or a bypass pulley, i would, but thanks for the advice
 
my ac compressor is shot, still blows cold ac, but it makes a loud grinding noise and alittle black oil has leaked,

Turn it off, dont turn it back on.
every minute you run that compressor kills more and more of the entire system.

Do not turn on your defrost, unless you unplug the compressor clutch OR the low pressure sensor...that will disable the compressor and keep it from pumping more crap all thru the system.

the longer you leave this unattended, the less likely you are going to recover from this.
that black crap..will solidify and destroy every component within the AC system

if you tackle it quickly, and stop "wondering what if".. you stand a chance of getting it fixed.

But if you bypass the commpressor and just let that crap "SIT".. your AC will never work again...ever.
 
yes, i believe all of that, so just get it done, new ac compressor, and have a shop vaccum and refill it i guess, its gonna cost a few hundred, but its worth it because i dont want to turn my LS into a beater, thanks i guess ill get started


p.s. i hear the noise even when the AC isnt on, clutch not engaged, so it may just be the pulley clutch part, but since it has leaked, im thinking it may be the whole unit
 
yea it's probably the whole unit.. you have two different things happening.
the compressor is dying and the clutch is toasted due to the dying compressor.
it's fairly common...it's a cascading effect of failures.

The compressor starts to die, overworks the clutch.. it starts to die..
but before it dies it pumps the guts from the compressor into the rest of the system, thus contaminating EVERYTHING with "Black Death".
Black Death often kills the new compressor in a short time unless ALL the contaminated components are replaced, I wouldnt trust a "cleaning" to prevent a subsequent compressor failure.

a few hundred.. is on the low side of the estimate scale.
your gonna be more than a "few hundred" in parts alone.. labor is gonna SUCK if you cant do most of it yourself.
 
i know, thats why im like well maybe just screw the ac, its in such a tight spot, looks like the oil pan is in the way, i have the car jacked up now, i see all that black death stuff, thats why i think its a little more involved, but i know how much we save from doing the labor ourselves so i hope i can figure this out thanks

ps, not oil pan, it bolts into above it, i think its 3 bolts, im going to take a few more pictures and post
 
I disconnected my A/C clutch :shifty: I haven't had any problems, it just takes longer to defrost. I don't live in the south, or by the coast tho.. :shifty:
 
I disconnected my A/C clutch :shifty: I haven't had any problems, it just takes longer to defrost. I don't live in the south, or by the coast tho.. :shifty:

lol, did yours make a noise, my is a gen 1, and it says the date on the compressor 19990ct25, MY AC COMPRESSOR IS VINTAGE!! lmao

what do you get from disconnecting the clutch, no constant noise, so did you take the pulley off, and take out the clutch and put the pulley back on? i got a decent amount of black sticky resin in that area, but i cant find the leak as of yet, im going to take pics now, thanks
 

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