Another Off-Topic, '06 Fusion.

SoulSoak

SoulSoak

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Sorry for another off topic Guys.

My wifes car, 06 fusion se, won't start. I turn the key to the run position and all it does is make a whine/click noise and all the instrument lights flash each time it clicks.

At first I thought it was the starter so I payed $150 for a new one and it's still doing the same ****. Its not a solenoid because there is only one and it's attached to the starter (which I just installed a new one).

Does anyone know if this is an anti-theft issue or could help me diagnose it? Your help is greatly appreciated.
 
Oh and I forgot to mention, the car did start after several clicks. My wife did it while I was at work. I guess I just didn't suspect the battery because the lights and everything electrical works. The lights are bright too, not dim. But I'm about to go buy a battery. Eff it.
 
Battery. When battery's get low the electircal stuff starts to go crazy. I.e. Lights flashing.
 
Problem solved, was battery. But of course another problem has to arise.

On my way to buy the new battery for the Fusion, my LS decided "Hmm.. He's already pissed about spending $155 on an unnecessary starter, now would be impeccable timing for me to stick it in his a**!!!".

So while driving, particularly at 35-45mph, my LS dies or something. Like... The RPM's will be at a steady 1600-2000 while under light fuel load cruising, then drop to 300 (maybe less) and then go back to 1600-2000. This all happens within a second. It's like it's intermittently dieing.

I don't know if this is fuel or charge related. Are these symptoms fuel pump related, cold weather related, alternator related? I need your expertise/experience guys because you could boil an egg on my effn forhead right now.

Thanks
 
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/fo...35-Intermittent-Buck-Jerk-While-Driving/page2

Found this and read the entire post. I pray I don't have a wiring and or electrical fault like that guy did because I don't have friends that work at a dealer and I can't afford thousands for diagnostic trial and error fixes.

Hopefully I can get some responses and input soon cuz I don't know how to go about this. Greatly appreciate your help as always guys, God bless.
 
Your link is not working for me.
Are you sure that the engine RPM is really dropping that much and coming back up all in a second? Could it be the tachometer instead? Are any other gauges or lights changing at the same time? I assume that there is at least an engine power loss when it happens?

You can probably rule the alternator out. BTW, something like the gauge linked below would help you a lot in being able to tell when you have a failing alternator or a failing battery, for either car.
http://www.amazon.com/Display-Digit...8878978&sr=8-4&keywords=plug-in+battery+gauge

If it's really happening all in a second, then I tend to suspect an electrical problem.

Otherwise, it could be that your throttle body needs to be cleaned. Have you had any hard starting issues? There's a TSB on this.
http://edoqs.com/pdf/dtcs-p0505-p05...-tsb-12-8-1-_677569aaa07d3063fc26ed76ae9178ee
 
joegr said:
Your link is not working for me.
Are you sure that the engine RPM is really dropping that much and coming back up all in a second? Could it be the tachometer instead? Are any other gauges or lights changing at the same time? I assume that there is at least an engine power loss when it happens?

You can probably rule the alternator out. BTW, something like the gauge linked below would help you a lot in being able to tell when you have a failing alternator or a failing battery, for either car.
http://www.amazon.com/Display-Digit...8878978&sr=8-4&keywords=plug-in+battery+gauge

If it's really happening all in a second, then I tend to suspect an electrical problem.

Otherwise, it could be that your throttle body needs to be cleaned. Have you had any hard starting issues? There's a TSB on this.
http://edoqs.com/pdf/dtcs-p0505-p05...-tsb-12-8-1-_677569aaa07d3063fc26ed76ae9178ee
Click to expand...

Yes I've actually been having starting issues. When I turn the key to run, it will turn over a few times, pause for a half a second, then start. Like it's struggling or hesitant. I assumed it was the cold weather.

I'll disassemble and clean the TB tomorrow. Is there a specific method you recommend?

Also I'll add that the Tachometer drops in RPM, but the speedometer remains at the speed I'm traveling so I do believe it's engine power loss and not an electrical shutdown.

Anyhow I'll start by cleaning the TB after church tomorrow and then update. Again, any advice or specific cleaner or materials recommended? Thanks
 
I am having a starting problem like this with my 04 CTS, mine doesn't do that whining noise and the click I hear is the solenoid and not as loud as the click in your video, but anyway mine starts most of the time and could go a month without an issue or it could do it two days in a row. I at first thought it was the battery, so I replaced it and it still wouldn't start, I then thought it was the started and had it taken to the dealership and they had it for a few days hooked it up to their scan tools and what not, just to tell me nothing was wrong with my car and it started fine for them every time they went to start it. I'm pretty sure mine is a anti theft system issue. She hasn't done it since then and that was like 5 weeks ago, so im not worried about doing anything to it now.
 
SoulSoak said:
Problem solved, was battery. But of course another problem has to arise.

On my way to buy the new battery for the Fusion, my LS decided "Hmm.. He's already pissed about spending $155 on an unnecessary starter, now would be impeccable timing for me to stick it in his a**!!!".

So while driving, particularly at 35-45mph, my LS dies or something. Like... The RPM's will be at a steady 1600-2000 while under light fuel load cruising, then drop to 300 (maybe less) and then go back to 1600-2000. This all happens within a second. It's like it's intermittently dieing.

I don't know if this is fuel or charge related. Are these symptoms fuel pump related, cold weather related, alternator related? I need your expertise/experience guys because you could boil an egg on my effn forhead right now.

Thanks
Click to expand...

Expensive battery. All auto parts will load
test battery for free. That would have been my first check
 
SoulSoak said:
...
Anyhow I'll start by cleaning the TB after church tomorrow and then update. Again, any advice or specific cleaner or materials recommended? Thanks
Click to expand...

Just go by what the TSB says and shows. Note that they want you to remove the throttle body to clean it. That way you can get to the whole thing and won't push any of the gunk into the engine. Any throttle body safe cleaner should be okay. I'd leave the throttle body heater hoses attached if you can.
 
joegr said:
Just go by what the TSB says and shows. Note that they want you to remove the throttle body to clean it. That way you can get to the whole thing and won't push any of the gunk into the engine. Any throttle body safe cleaner should be okay. I'd leave the throttle body heater hoses attached if you can.
Click to expand...

I'll do that thanks Joe. But what do you mean do what the TSB says? Where is the TSB and what does it say? Probably a dumb question sorry. Thanks again
 
SoulSoak said:
Oh and I forgot to mention, the car did start after several clicks. My wife did it while I was at work. I guess I just didn't suspect the battery because the lights and everything electrical works. The lights are bright too, not dim. But I'm about to go buy a battery. Eff it.
Click to expand...

Just so you know, the headlights only pull about 20 amps (I'm not sure about the HIDs but I can't see it being any different; they just convert amperage to voltage to run them). You can check the fuse to see what they pull. The entire car might pull about 80 amps while running, which the alternator will provide with no problems. The starter, on the other hand, will pull 300+ amps, even more when cold. This is why CCA, or cold cranking amps, is so important a measurement for the battery. It also is why a lot of people wake up on a cold frosty morning to discover their car won't start when it started fine the day before when it was warm. This is also why the car has a 700+ amp battery but only a 100ish amp alternator. They expect the car to be run at least 20 minutes once started, which will recharge the 300-400 amps the battery pulls for 3-5 seconds when starting.
 
Telco said:
Just so you know, the headlights only pull about 20 amps ...
Click to expand...

The headlights (counting the parking lights too) are probably less than 15 amps. Each headlight is just under 5 amps, HIDs are even less.

Anyway, to add to your good points above, it seems that a lot of people have trouble realizing when the problem is a weak battery. It used to be that with a weak battery you would still have the starter turn the engine slowly, and/or the lights would dim way down while you tried it. Now, you just get a series of clicks and the lights may just flicker a little. The reason is the electronics that control starter engagement. Before, it was just a relay and it would work even when the battery went down to six volts. Now there are electronic circuits that will often reset when the voltage drops to nine volts. When it resets it releases the starter relay.
 
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/fo...170-Car-shuts-off-when-driving!!!-Please-Help!!!

Found this. Seems identical to my issue, I'm going to do some inspecting of my power/grounds. Can you guys give me some God places to start? I'll check the battery to fuse/relay junction in trunk. Then the driver side kick panel (anything particular to look for here?).

Also someone recommended PCV hose in that thread, maybe I damaged mine when doing my cooling system. Would a PCV hose induce the symptoms my LS is having?
 
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