Recent content by abe_lincoln78

So. . . . I've decided (since my converters are now filled with chunks of broken ceramic) to upgrade the exhaust system on my tired old '93 TC. My plan is to fit up the stock exhaust manifolds and H-Pipe from a 96-04 Mustang. So. . . here's the issue. I was sure everything would fit until I...

What you are describing is very common. The head units in those things will all eventually just quit. This happened to both of my Towncars and both of my brothers first two mark VII's. Your best bet is to get yourself a good after market radio and a bypass kit for your amplifier. The...

Check the EGR tube. I doubt it would cause the pop but it could hurt your low RPM drivability like you've talked about. On mine it just looked cracked from an external inspection, but when it came off it was actually in two pieces. The problem area is in a thermal expansion flex that just...

On the old JBL systems you could count on it, but I figured the new stuff would be better. . . Go figure.

Keep in mind I'm not just talking new pads here, I'm talking new disks. That will add about $70 to your brake job. keep in mind though that if the disks are warped changing them will only temporarily fix the problem. Honestly with your bigger wheel and tire combination you need to get bigger...

It could be a number of things. By putting a different diameter wheel and tire combination on the car you are affecting the "harmony" of all the rotating components from the engine down to the brake rotors. You see, all rotating assemblies have a speed at which they will run rough no matter...

If you put a resistor between the +/- leads to make up the current you're not drawing with the LED's you're really negating one of the chief reasons to switch to LED lighting (less power consumption). Now, if I remember correctly, in the old days a flasher was faster when you drew more current...

16's will give you a softer ride because in order to get the same overall tread diameter you will need a taller side wall. The result is a smoother ride. I doubt your '72 weighed any more than 500# more than your '06. They're much closer than you think (imagine how much more steel etc goes...

when I switched from my '80's model to my '93 I noticed a significant difference. And with new shocks on it now it really seems stiff to me. The upside is that it handles much better than that old '89 did, so you win some, you lose some.

gilly, i think it would, though I'd be concerned about all that butane being inside the car. . . . The issue you're probably thinking about Mr Wiggl3s is that of the thermostatic valve that moves vacuum to or from the heater door in response to a combination of the cabin air temperature and...

I had an '84 towncar with a bad ignition switch that had the same problem. It should be high on your list of candidates. Check the wiring to the crank sensor. I know its screwy on my '93 and very well could be your issue.

you probably have multiple leaks. The car is now about 20 years old, meaning there's likely serious dry rot compromising your vacuum lines. Now, before you go ape looking for your leaks keep in mind you're driving a 4000 pound car with a 150 hp engine. When you're accelerating from a light or...

correction. . . ft-lb. . . . my head was a little stuck in work there. . . . . . .

oh, its "slow." I've never measured 0-60, but I can tell you that it will get up and go whenever you want. Mine is 100% stock with single exhaust, which puts power at 190hp, 285ish in-lb.

"Really its not a question of if your torque converter is going to break, but a question of when." Straight out the mouth of the transmission tech I took my car to before buying it. So far. . . . crosses fingers. . . . when hasn't happened yet. 135k and still rockin' the socks off Hondas.