Lets talk rear brakes

[Gus_Mahn]

I just did the rear brakes on my '03 LS8. For the second time, I had to grind the ends where they contact the caliper mount. Both times it was Advance Auto Parts pads, and they wouldn't fit otherwise. It's almost like the pads were measured for a mount that didn't have the stainless shims on the slides. Also all four pins were frozen in the slides. I bought new pins and boots from the local Autozone and lubed it all up with a mixture of waterproof grease and silver anti-seeze. Hopefully things will work right for the life of the pads.

So, who else has had these issues?

 

[M4rk]

I have had my sliders seize up slightly after a bed-in process. That's about it.

I don't know if waterproof grease + silver anti-seize is a good lube for the pins. This is what I use:

 

[jmtiseo]

They make a "special" grease for brake slides. Your mixture may work but I was told that normal grease won't like the temperatures of the brakes. I'm not sure on how hot these things can get under normal use but it's a thought.

 

[Gus_Mahn]

I have had my sliders seize up slightly after a bed-in process. That's about it.

I don't know if waterproof grease + silver anti-seize is a good lube for the pins. This is what I use:

I have some of that stuff here, and it has also allowed Ford slides to seize on me before, so I quit using it. I live in the rustbelt, all the the pins were pretty rusty under the boot. The boots were dealer only last time I did the brakes so I didn't change them. The new boots were much tighter. It's probably a good idea to change them with every brake job if you live where it snow or rains a lot.

 

[M4rk]

I live in the salt central of the Western world. My front pins have zero rust on them, but my rears were rusted just like you say. I should have changed them out.. Luckily all is well now.

 

[2002_lincolnLS]

I use wheel bearing grease and have for years without problems I know it can handle heat and movement just fine with out breaking down if it goes into wheel bearings, plus you get a ton of it in a can.

 

[TooManyToys]

Many of the aftermarket brake pad companies buy steelbacks from one aftermarket source, and I know these are not held to the tight tolerances of OE steelbacks. What you did is what I always recommend whenever aftermarket pads are used. The more expensive pads usually have a better tolerance controlled steelback. Other times it's not the steelback but the paint that is sprayed on.

Caliper boots are molded from rubber that is tolerant of brake fluid, which means it's not tolerant of petroleum grease and why a silicone grease is recommended for all slide pins no matter what auto manufacturer. Exposure to petroleum will over time swell the boot to loosen the seal it has to keep water out of the pin bore. But silicone is not the best for dispelling water either. Especially with rear brakes that do not get the same drying air that front brakes get which is why you often see a higher rate or rear caliper sliding pin rust problems.

While I had always been an advocate of using the silicone caliper grease on the slides, lately I've been using a silicone based anti-seize lubricant. This seems to provide a little more protection the the normal clear brake silicone grease.

 

[Gus_Mahn]

Caliper boots are molded from rubber that is tolerant of brake fluid, which means it's not tolerant of petroleum grease, and why a silicone grease is recommended for all slide pins no matter what auto manufacturer. Exposure to petroleum will over time swell the boot to loosen the seal it has to keep water out of the pin bore. But silicone is not the best for dispelling water either. Especially with rear brakes that do not get the same drying air that front brakes get, which is why you often see a higher rate or rear caliper sliding pin rust problems.

While I had always been an advocate of using the silicone caliper grease on the slides, lately I've been using a silicone based anti-seize lubricant. This seems to provide a little more protection the the normal clear brake silicone grease.

Thanks for the reply. What's the name of the anti-seeze you are using?

 

[TooManyToys]

Gus,

I was hoping someone wasn't going to ask me that. I'm trying several.

Honda uses a silicone moly grease that they use on the back of their pads as an anti-squeal compound. I used to get pails of that for our work so I've been using that in some applications. It is a very thick grease and needs to be used in thin quantities or over time it thickens and become resistive to movement. You just can't use it like silicone brake grease.

The advantage with moly is that it is a perfect lubricant for sliding surfaces and bonds itself to metal. The product is Dow Corning M-77. But even using it judiciously I've not liked it after a few years on one application. Just thickened too much.

Dow supplies many of the caliper manufacturers with silicone slide pin grease, and depending on the application it can be: Dow Corning PG-54 | G-807 | 111 | G-3407. None of these use moly from what I remember.

The other ones I'm trying and appear to have good results are CRC SL35920, Loctite 39895, and Bel-Ray Molylube 16. Problem is it takes years of exposure until you know for sure.

I know of some guys with Ford Superdutys that have been using some mineral based anti seize (Counterman's Choice packets) purchased at Advance, etc that say they have had good luck. But the mineral oil will affect the rubber over time.