Newbie, 2000 LS Black with gray interior

ddwood55

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Well I'm new here, well not really I've been on a while just reading up on these Lincoln LS's!

Anyway thought I'd introduce myself and my LS to everyone.

Not much to tell about myself, I'm a old fart! Presently I own a Red 91 Mustang GT convertible 347 stroker, 5 speed, a 95 probe that I'm needing a engine for. 05 Ford Expedition Limited, and of course the 00 LS. I'm a ford guy all the way, brainwashed early in live since my dad was service manager for the local ford dealership, our back yard was the new car delivery area. The transport would pull into the alley behind our house and unload all the new cars into our backyard! We lived right across the street from the dealership!

I bought the LS out of a junkyard for $800, it was dirty and neglected. They were asking $1200, tranny was bad, engine was in need of help! Thanks to the manual shift mode I was able to drive it home.

I have slowly started getting her back up into good shape. Took the interior completely out, cleaned everything and reinstalled it. After a good clean up I started driving it back and forth to work. I had 2, 3, 4 and 5th gears, no reverse and no 1st gear. It did ok.

Since then I have change the transmission, replaced the secondary chain and tensioner on the right side. Pulled both valve covers just to check the other ones. The surprising part was how clean the engine is on the inside. Looks like it had been very well maintained. No sludge at all. I took my borescope and looked down each side at the primary chains and tensioners and they looked good. I do need two coils, cylinders 2 and 4 are showing misfires. The missing is most noticeable at idle.

I've ordered a new clockspring since my horn does not work, airbag light stays on, radio control buttons are all out of whack, cruise will work sometimes.

I have one issue that is weird, sometimes after a few minutes of driving the engine shows to overheat, goes into limp mode. By my scanner in monitor mode it shows the temp to be around 204, one time when I checked it when it showed to be over heating it was 214. When this happens I can put the car into neutral and turn the key off for a few seconds and restart the engine and it's stopped over heating instantly. Something else that seems weird about this problem is it seems to do it when the ambient temperature is below 50, the last couple of days we've been in the mid to high 60's and it hasn't done it any.

Next is I don't have heat. A/C works great but no heat. I figured it was the blend door, then I read (I think on one of the post here) that our cars don't have blend doors. So I'm still trying to figure this one out.

I have some thumping noise when I hit bumps, sounds like it's coming from the right front. I've check the swaybar bushings they seem to be fine. The upper ball joints may be my problem. I know the rubber seal is damage on both upper ball joints, and it worst on the right side. I figure the upper control arm has to be replaced, am I right on this? When I do it I was planning on doing lower ball joints too. Looks like you can just replace the ball joint and not the whole lower control arm, is this correct.

I have another hood and a right front fender for it, just not going to replace those untill I get all the mechanical stuff fixed and I'm ready to sand her down to paint her. Plus I need to find a rear bumpercover.



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Welcome... Glad to see you bringing one back from the dead... (pics arent working)...

all of your issues can be a few things

for the overheating, id try an good flush and make sure the fans operating correctly, follow these steps closely
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/tech/Lincoln-LS/CoolingSystemDraining/

for the airbag... check the wire harness under the seat also... they are known to break and cause issues

for the clunk... the swaybar links can be deceiving... there wear doesnt show well they can look fine, but still cause knocking. Its not easy to replace, but prob. a good idea. could also be your ball joints though...

Could be your heat and overheating are related... a good flush might fix both... If not you might have a failing DCCV ...

very cool though.... good luck
 
Well I'm new here, well not really I've been on a while just reading up on these Lincoln LS's!

Anyway thought I'd introduce myself and my LS to everyone.




Since then I have change the transmission, replaced the secondary chain and tensioner on the right side. Pulled both valve covers just to check the other ones. The surprising part was how clean the engine is on the inside. Looks like it had been very well maintained. No sludge at all. I took my borescope and looked down each side at the primary chains and tensioners and they looked good. I do need two coils, cylinders 2 and 4 are showing misfires. The missing is most noticeable at idle.


Next is I don't have heat. A/C works great but no heat. I figured it was the blend door, then I read (I think on one of the post here) that our cars don't have blend doors. So I'm still trying to figure this one out.

I have some thumping noise when I hit bumps, sounds like it's coming from the right front. I've check the swaybar bushings they seem to be fine. The upper ball joints may be my problem. I know the rubber seal is damage on both upper ball joints, and it worst on the right side. I figure the upper control arm has to be replaced, am I right on this? When I do it I was planning on doing lower ball joints too. Looks like you can just replace the ball joint and not the whole lower control arm, is this correct.

I have another hood and a right front fender for it, just not going to replace those untill I get all the mechanical stuff fixed and I'm ready to sand her down to paint her. Plus I need to find a rear bumpercover.

nice LS!

the thumping may be the lower ball joints. from my experience, the upper ball joint creaks and sounds like its going to break, especially when turning. jack up the car and move the wheel at top and bottom to check the uppers, and use a pry bar to check the lowers. You do have to replace the UCA when doing the ball joint. You can press out the lower ball joint from the knuckle, and press the new one in.


the no heat could just be you need to properly bleed the cooling system, by the book, and/or replace cracked cooling parts
 
Welcome...and thanks for saving an LS from the crusher. Looks like you have a clean car and one that is lucky to have a Ford guy as an owner.
 
ahhh... she's beautiful... not a ton of aftermarket stuff but i couple cool things out there if you ever feel the need!
 
Thanks guys, I've got a long way to go for it to look as good as the ones I've seen on here. But slowly but surely I'll get there.

One thing I didn't mention, I just thought about it. Back when I bought the car the weather was still warm and I needed the A/C at times I would hear a ticking/thumping sound coming from the middle of the dash area. A/C worked fine, nice and cold but it would have that sound, I can't remember for sure but seems like it would start that noise when I'd change the temp settings.

I ran out and checked the bleeder valve for the heater and I got a good stream of coolant as soon as I opened it. I'll check the other stuff when I get home.

Thanks again,
Delos
 
...hmmm maybe a faulty vent door??? not sure if that could even happen on an LS.. I only say that because my expedition would do that in the rear...
 
...I have one issue that is weird, sometimes after a few minutes of driving the engine shows to overheat, goes into limp mode. By my scanner in monitor mode it shows the temp to be around 204, one time when I checked it when it showed to be over heating it was 214. ...

You need to check the head temperature sensor reading, instead of just the water temperature.
 
You need to check the head temperature sensor reading, instead of just the water temperature.


How would I check the head temperature sensor reading? I just have a auto X ray 6000, the coolant temp is all it shows.

Also if it is actually running hot, why would turning the key off for a few seconds and restarting make a difference? The first couple of times I pulled over and turned the engine off, after that I just put it in neutral and shut it off and then restart it. After restarting it the gauge is always mid way. Also if this is a over heating problem why does it only do it when the outside temp is 50 or below. It's been in the 60's the last two days and hasn't done it a single time. Could one of the head temp sensors be bad and when I turn it off it resets?
 
DD, I have often wonder what that is all about mine would do the same thing but only when my coolant got a little low. But when I would restart it, it would be fine, if it was actually hot it would still be hot a minute later. I'm not thermodynamics expert but I know thats a bit weird.
 
How would I check the head temperature sensor reading? I just have a auto X ray 6000, the coolant temp is all it shows.

Also if it is actually running hot, why would turning the key off for a few seconds and restarting make a difference? The first couple of times I pulled over and turned the engine off, after that I just put it in neutral and shut it off and then restart it. After restarting it the gauge is always mid way. Also if this is a over heating problem why does it only do it when the outside temp is 50 or below. It's been in the 60's the last two days and hasn't done it a single time. Could one of the head temp sensors be bad and when I turn it off it resets?

My AutoEnginuity reads both sensors.

The failsafe cooling algorithm looks at head temperature and time. It can trigger on a very high temperature, or on a lower (but still too high) temperature after a period of time. Once it triggers, it's latched (stays triggered) until the temperature goes way down, or you turn the key off.
 
DD, I have often wonder what that is all about mine would do the same thing but only when my coolant got a little low. But when I would restart it, it would be fine, if it was actually hot it would still be hot a minute later. I'm not thermodynamics expert but I know thats a bit weird.

Yeah, that's what I can't figure out. All I have to do is turn the key off, I just put it in neutral and let it coast, and start the engine right back up. Now if it was really hot it wouldn't have cooled down in 5 to 10 seconds. Also the gauge after I restart it is right in the middle, I would figure if it was really over heating that the gauge would still show hot and slowing move back down to normal as it cooled down as in a sticking thermostat that is slow to open. It just makes no sense to me that if the engine is so hot it goes into limp mode that it's going to cool down in a few seconds. And once it does it and I turn it off and restart I can drive all over town and it never will do it again.
 
My AutoEnginuity reads both sensors.

The failsafe cooling algorithm looks at head temperature and time. It can trigger on a very high temperature, or on a lower (but still too high) temperature after a period of time. Once it triggers, it's latched (stays triggered) until the temperature goes way down, or you turn the key off.

I printed off the procedure for bleeding the coolant system. The degas bottle does look a little low. I'll check that out when I get home.
 
I checked coolant level last night, the degas bottle was low, also pulled the coolant fill cap and it was a little low. Fill up the coolant and went through the steps on bleeding the system. Man, that seem like forever before I got coolant coming out the bleed line for the heater. But evidently that was my problem with no heat. But I have another problem, that fill cap on the engine is leaking. never noticed it till last night when I got every thing filled up. The hole in the top, I guess for an allen wrench which I did not have one the right size, it's leaking up through that hole. Is that a dealer only item?
 
I checked coolant level last night, the degas bottle was low, also pulled the coolant fill cap and it was a little low. Fill up the coolant and went through the steps on bleeding the system. Man, that seem like forever before I got coolant coming out the bleed line for the heater. But evidently that was my problem with no heat. But I have another problem, that fill cap on the engine is leaking. never noticed it till last night when I got every thing filled up. The hole in the top, I guess for an allen wrench which I did not have one the right size, it's leaking up through that hole. Is that a dealer only item?

nope... you can even get an aluminum one... http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=78403
 

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