Two more questions about my LS!

[Shredicus]

So yet again, I've had very little luck in finding relevant information using the search feature (maybe im just not putting i nthe right keywords or something) but I seems to get direct answers very quickly when I just make a topic and ask. So I've got 2 questions pertaining to different issues I'm having with my 2003 LS V8.

1.) I think I have a blown sub. The car the THX/Nav package and I notice one of the subs seems to rattle and wheeze a lot. I read the "LS Owner Manual" thread and found out I need a 6x9 speaker to replace the ones located in the rear deck. After some additional research I've found the infinity kappas are pretty well regarded. I was looking at replacing the subs in the rear deck with this set but I'm not really sure what would be entailed by installing them. I have literally no experience at all with wiring vehicle sound systems so how difficult are these to replace? Will the connections fit directly to the stock THX sub amp or will I need some sort of wiring harness adaptors? Also will these give me similar quantities of bass but perhaps a bit sharper/clearer than the stock subs? Also I'm aware they're not really full blown subwoofers, but they're the part of this car's audio system that provides a decent rumbley bass. EDIT: After reviewing the feedback in this thread and considering my options I think I am going to nix this plan and just get OEM replacements. Thanks for the help!

2.) My next issue seems significantly less fun and more expensive. I have a leak. I havent really had a chance to pinpoint its origins, but I stumbled across this thread and the picture shows the exact place the fluid is dripping from and the type of fluid thats leaking from my vehicle. So looks like AC compressor oil. In the thread he mentions he buys "a can of that leak sealer from auto zone" which seems to remedy the problem at least temporarily until the compressor can be replaced when funds allow. Could anyone offer me some insight on exactly what sort of leak stop I would need for this, and how I would go about putting in my system? EDIT: I think it's brake fluid.

I will include my usual apology if these are questions asked too frequently and thank everyone in advance for any insight they can glean on these issues!

 

[T-Money]

If you decide that those speakers you are looking at will be to much work for you I have the thx speakers from my old ls avaliable for sale. And they were only a year or so old because I also had the problem your having but my extended warranty covered it so they replaced the rear deck subs.

Ps if you have a warranty id take it in. I was suprised that the speakers were covered.

 

[myfirstlincoln]

I'm on my phone so if this doesn't make sense or needs further explanation, ill post later, but if iirc the rear deck speakers are just for lows so using a normal speaker isn't ideal. Go to ebay and type in CDT Audio 6x9. They're one of the few companies I've found that makes decent 6x9 subs. They're about $150. However, a few people that got these have said the stock amp isn't powerful enough to fully utilize these subs so you would need to upgrade the amp as well. Overall, easiest option is to just replace w a stock/used sub.

 

[LS4me]

So yet again, I've had very little luck in finding relevant information using the search feature (maybe im just not putting i nthe right keywords or something) but I seems to get direct answers very quickly when I just make a topic and ask. So I've got 2 questions pertaining to different issues I'm having with my 2003 LS V8.

1.) I think I have a blown sub. The car the THX/Nav package and I notice one of the subs seems to rattle and wheeze a lot. I read the "LS Owner Manual" thread and found out I need a 6x9 speaker to replace the ones located in the rear deck. After some additional research I've found the infinity kappas are pretty well regarded. I was looking at replacing the subs in the rear deck with this set but I'm not really sure what would be entailed by installing them. I have literally no experience at all with wiring vehicle sound systems so how difficult are these to replace? Will the connections fit directly to the stock THX sub amp or will I need some sort of wiring harness adaptors? Also will these give me similar quantities of bass but perhaps a bit sharper/clearer than the stock subs? Also I'm aware they're not really full blown subwoofers, but they're the part of this car's audio system that provides a decent rumbley bass.

2.) My next issue seems significantly less fun and more expensive. I have a leak. I havent really had a chance to pinpoint its origins, but I stumbled across this thread and the picture shows the exact place the fluid is dripping from and the type of fluid thats leaking from my vehicle. So looks like AC compressor oil. In the thread he mentions he buys "a can of that leak sealer from auto zone" which seems to remedy the problem at least temporarily until the compressor can be replaced when funds allow. Could anyone offer me some insight on exactly what sort of leak stop I would need for this, and how I would go about putting in my system?

I will include my usual apology if these are questions asked too frequently and thank everyone in advance for any insight they can glean on these issues!

1) The rear speakers are subs only and the amp only supplies the low frequencies do a full range speaker will be useless. Replace with the factory subs or a comparable aftermarket speaker.

2) If it is indeed compressor oil you will need to replace the compressor. I replaced the compressor on my daughter's 2000 in a couple of hours. It's not too tough. That stop-leaks stuff usually stops operation also.

 

[joegr]

...
2) If it is indeed compressor oil you will need to replace the compressor. I replaced the compressor on my daughter's 2000 in a couple of hours. It's not too tough. That stop-leaks stuff usually stops operation also.

Exactly. Don't add any leak stop, replace the compressor.

 

[Shredicus]

Hrmm, I see. Thanks for the input everyone.

@T-Money: Thanks you for the offer. I will definitely keep that in mind should the aftermarket route prove too difficult or costly.

@myfirstlincoln: With the stock amp would the CDT speakers sound distorted or incapable of producing higher volume, or just not capable of reaching their maximum output levels like they would with a more powerful amp? Is there going to be no increase in bass quantity/quality by going with the CDT 6x9s over the stockers with the stock amp? I'm really a total novice when it comes to car audio so thanks for the help.

@ls4me&joegr: That's good to know. How difficult of an install is this for a complete novice to car repairs? Any specialized tools that would be needed beyond a ratchet set? Is there a write up on how to do this somewhere? Thanks.

 

[joegr]

...
@ls4me&joegr: That's good to know. How difficult of an install is this for a complete novice to car repairs? Any specialized tools that would be needed beyond a ratchet set? Is there a write up on how to do this somewhere? Thanks.

It's not too hard. You need a good vacuum pump and a good high side / low side pressure gauge set at a minimum.

 

[Shredicus]

It's not too hard. You need a good vacuum pump and a good high side / low side pressure gauge set at a minimum.

Ah right, the refrigerant and whatnot. Guess tomorrow I will have to get underneath and confirm that the compressor is indeed the cause of the leak. Is there a diagram showing the exact location of the compressor?

edit: Also, in the the event that I confirm it is the compressor would you recommend I purchase a brand new one or for approximately half the price get a "low mileage" used one?

 

[joegr]

Ah right, the refrigerant and whatnot. Guess tomorrow I will have to get underneath and confirm that the compressor is indeed the cause of the leak. Is there a diagram showing the exact location of the compressor?

http://deneau.info/ls/s6x~us~en~file=s6xc1006.htm~gen~ref.htm

 

[Shredicus]

http://deneau.info/ls/s6x~us~en~file=s6xc1006.htm~gen~ref.htm

Ah perfect. Thank you sir

 

[LS4me]

Ah right, the refrigerant and whatnot. Guess tomorrow I will have to get underneath and confirm that the compressor is indeed the cause of the leak. Is there a diagram showing the exact location of the compressor?

edit: Also, in the the event that I confirm it is the compressor would you recommend I purchase a brand new one or for approximately half the price get a "low mileage" used one?

Rock Auto, Tasca, Team Ford, Max (Chapman Ford) are all good sources. IIRC, I found one complete with pulley and field for min-$200ish; I don't remember where. Go with Motorcraft as you probably won't find a new one; reman only.

 

[Shredicus]

Rock Auto, Tasca, Team Ford, Max (Chapman Ford) are all good sources. IIRC, I found one complete with pulley and field for min-$200ish; I don't remember where. Go with Motorcraft as you probably won't find a new one; reman only.

What were your thoughts on this unit?

http://www.discountbodyparts.com/ca...n+ls+replacement+a-fs-c+compressor+repl191103

Advertised as brand new, seems to have all the accessories.

The reseller seems to be pretty well-known and well-reviewed.

 

[LS4me]

What were your thoughts on this unit?

http://www.discountbodyparts.com/ca...n+ls+replacement+a-fs-c+compressor+repl191103

Advertised as brand new, seems to have all the accessories.

The reseller seems to be pretty well-known and well-reviewed.

I would probably purchase that one. You will need know if oil is included as you will need to let the shop that recharges the system know. I wouldn't worry about evacuating the system. If the compressor is leaking the "Freon" has probably mostly leaked out anyway.

 

[Shredicus]

I would probably purchase that one. You will need know if oil is included as you will need to let the shop that recharges the system know. I wouldn't worry about evacuating the system. If the compressor is leaking the "Freon" has probably mostly leaked out anyway.

Alright, good to know. Thank you much

 

[oddball]

What were your thoughts on this unit?

http://www.discountbodyparts.com/ca...n+ls+replacement+a-fs-c+compressor+repl191103

Advertised as brand new, seems to have all the accessories.

The reseller seems to be pretty well-known and well-reviewed.

In the mean time, disconnect the electrical connector on the side of the compressor. That will prevent the clutch from engaging, preventing the compressor from running.

You want to do that, because a compressor that is low on oil eats itself into little pieces and spews them all through the system. So what was a remove/reinstall and recharge of the A/C becomes a full removal and flush of the entire system.

It's called "black death". Lots of info at ackits.com.

 

[Shredicus]

Ok... so I jacked the car up and took a look underneath but the plastic panel still blocked access to whatever I was looing for from below, but I snapped some pics of the fluid.

I looked around in the engine bay a bit and I think it might actually be the master cylinder and this fluid is probably brake fluid... hmm I remember the previous owner mentioning getting the master cylinder replaced fairly recently.

 

[joegr]

The compressor's at the front of the engine. Those pictures look like the area behind the engine, under the cabin. It would most likely be brake fluid there, but it could be coolant too.
You can't lose much brake fluid before you get a brake light. You can lose a lot more coolant before it becomes clear that you have a problem.
I'd bet on the degas bottle being cracked now.

 

[Shredicus]

The compressor's at the front of the engine. Those pictures look like the area behind the engine, under the cabin. It would most likely be brake fluid there, but it could be coolant too.
You can't lose much brake fluid before you get a brake light. You can lose a lot more coolant before it becomes clear that you have a problem.
I'd bet on the degas bottle being cracked now.

Yeah, I think I misinterpreted the pictures from a different thread pertaining to the AC compressor and thought it was a different part of the vehicle.

Hmm, I'm fairly certain that it's brake fluid after comparing the color of the liquids. I also see a little bit of fluid near the master cylinder inside the engine bay. I went over some bastard speed bumps last week and bottomed out; perhaps I pinched a brake line? Also 2 weeks ago when I bought the car the brakes were really soft. The previous owner said he had the master cylinder replaced fairly recently so we speculated that there may be some air in the brake lines. My friend recommended I do a hard "panic" stop to push the air out of the lines which seemed to have worked as after they point they became considerably firmer.

So, how do I go about checking if its the degas bottle? Whereabouts is that located?

 

[joegr]

It's the thing at the windshield with the big radiator cap where you add coolant.

 

[oddball]

Brake fluid and coolant have very different properties. Mainly, coolant is mostly water, brake fluid is mostly oil. Should be pretty easy to tell. Note that anything that drips that far will pick up dirt and turn brown.
Also, brake fluid is very caustic and will eat paint quickly.

When you bottom out on a speed bump, the car rides on the braces on either side of the engine.

Doing a panic stop does not push air out of the lines. Only a proper brake bleed will. If the replacement master cylinder wasn't installed properly, then your brakes could be dangerous.

Anyway, seems much more likely to be coolant. That amount of brake fluid would cause very big problems very quickly.

 

[joegr]

...
Doing a panic stop does not push air out of the lines. Only a proper brake bleed will. If the replacement master cylinder wasn't installed properly, then your brakes could be dangerous.
...

I mostly agree with all that. However, if the brakes were not correctly bled, doing some panic stops that activate the ABS, actually will move some air out of the ABS pump and valves. It would still need to be bled out of the calipers after that. It would, of course, be better to use the correct procedure and equipment to bleed the system.


The pictures are a little confusing. Those showing fluid on the under side of the car look more like coolant to me. It doesn't look like it spread out and "stuck" like oily brake fluid would. On the other hand, the paper towel looked kind of oily.

 

[msgtusmc]

When changing an air conditioning compressor you always should evac the system to -3 psi or 3 inches of mercury. Purpose in car or house is to remove all contaminents out of system also! I do a house for at least an hour @ -3psi and a vehivle!

 

[oddball]

When changing an air conditioning compressor you always should evac the system to -3 psi or 3 inches of mercury. Purpose in car or house is to remove all contaminents out of system also! I do a house for at least an hour @ -3psi and a vehivle!

Don't you mean -30? My pump can only pull to -27, and that's considered marginal.