Having 2 problems with my ls

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tabbymarie24

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I have a 00 lincoln ls v6 I believe it may be a gen1. My heat will not work, I have did the heater diagnostic(pushing off and floor then auto) and no codes show at all. However, when I use my slapshift and get my rpms up to 3000 it will blow hot air. But as soon as I go lower rpms it stops working.

And problem number 2 would be:
When I put my car in drive or reverse occasionally my car cuts off. Its almost like my engine revs itself and then it will cut off. I can not afford to have a dealer look at these problems as Im sure its going to take all my money to fix them. Any help is much appreciated:)
 
Not sure about #1, but you may want to check the condition of your battery for #2.

I have a 00 v8 and my car will die for no reason. I pull over and it currently restarts.

Had the battery checked at autozone, and he said it was charged but only had 50% reserve capacity.

I did a fast charge and it got me by for a couple of days, till it died again. Did a slow charge on it last night (says it's charged) but I'm resolved to get a new battery next week. The battery I currently have is a Motocraft (according to the code on the battery) it was made in Feb 2007 and is a 36 month version. So I'm looking at that as the source of the problems.

I also read somewhere on this board, that upon initial start up, the car will rev (maybe to ensure it's got the amperage). My LS used to rev to about 1800 rpm for about 10 secs, then idle normally, Now it revs to about 2300 or so before it levels out to about 700 rpm. Not sure it's related, but these cars do all kinds of quirky things when the battery is about to dump.
 
The "rev up" at start up is emissions related, not for the alternator. How high and how long it revs above normal idle are mostly temperature dependent.

1) Find the leak(s) in you cooling system, fix those (I promise the degas bottle will be one of them), flush the system, refill with fresh coolant, and correctly bled it and you should be good.

2) It could be a bad battery or alternator as was mentioned. It could also be:
a. Bad/sticking IAC.
b. Marginal COPs.
c. Bad PCV elbow.
d. Bad solenoids in transmission.
e. Bad torque converter.
f. A few other possible issues. Not enough info has been supplied to be sure.
 
I bleed my coolant and now my heater works. My boys and I can not thank you enough, we were freezing! Thankyou

Now on to get the battery replaced
 
I bleed my coolant and now my heat seems to be working great. My boys and I can not thank you enough. We were freezing. Thank you.

Now on to the next.. Replacing the battery. It has been going dead fairly easy over the last few months whenever my trunk gets left open (when the light is on) and it doesnt take very long for the battery to go dead.
 
tabbymarie24 said:
I bleed my coolant and now my heat seems to be working great. My boys and I can not thank you enough. We were freezing. Thank you.

Now on to the next.. Replacing the battery. It has been going dead fairly easy over the last few months whenever my trunk gets left open (when the light is on) and it doesnt take very long for the battery to go dead.
Click to expand...

So, I assume that you care about your sons. If that is the case, you will need to buy a replacement battery from a Ford or Lincoln dealer. Just about any other battery will not have the vent connection to the external vent tube. Without that, you could have a hydrogen explosion inside your car.
 
joegr said:
So, I assume that you care about your sons. If that is the case, you will need to buy a replacement battery from a Ford or Lincoln dealer. Just about any other battery will not have the vent connection to the external vent tube. Without that, you could have a hydrogen explosion inside your car.
Click to expand...


I got the proper battery from my FLAPS that deals under the Federated Auto Parts label. The battery was around USD $90.
 
Both Autozone and Oreily carry vented batteries that fit the LS. The only issue is finding them in stock. I was lucky and found one.
 
BlackLS06 said:
Both Autozone and Oreily carry vented batteries that fit the LS. The only issue is finding them in stock. I was lucky and found one.
Click to expand...

I've got an appointment for tires, fuel filter and battery on wednesday.

My mechanic deals with Interstate batteries. They appear to be a bit more pricey, but it looks like it has a touch more beef than my Motocraft 650.

MTP 66
CCA 750
RC 140
CA 940
Single Port Vent
Flat Top
$150

Here is a link to their spec sheet for all batteries:

http://www.interstatedealers.com/IBCatalog/common/automotive_spec.pdf
 
cirelle said:
I've got an appointment for tires, fuel filter and battery on wednesday.

My mechanic deals with Interstate batteries. They appear to be a bit more pricey, but it looks like it has a touch more beef than my Motocraft 650.

MTP 66
CCA 750
RC 140
CA 940
Single Port Vent
Flat Top
$150

Here is a link to their spec sheet for all batteries:

http://www.interstatedealers.com/IBCatalog/common/automotive_spec.pdf
Click to expand...

Ford sells both a 750 and a 650 battery. I think that the last battery I purchased from them was less then $150 (but this was two or three years ago) and it was a 750.
 
I just replaced my OEM battery after 7 years with OEM, vented, BXT-66-750 $109.95 plus tax from my local Ford dealer, the 650 batttery was the same price.
 
I know, 150 is a bit pricey, but trying to get him as a client with my company, so casting a bit on the water may help get the deal. (hopefully)
 
I picked up a battery & all my parts from O'Reilly so far. They've had everything I needed...even stuff autozone didn't. The battery from them was $116 & some change.
 
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