Ok, still removing my rear hubs, v.questions and pics

Myco

Myco

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Here's the how-to.

http://www.markviii.org/LOD2/rear_hub.htm

step 12 says

#
Remove the 2 lower hub assembly bolts by using the t-50 Torx bit, the ratchet, and the big Crescent Wrench. Be careful of the wahsers, because they have to go back in the same spot as they came from. They go between the hub assembly rubber bushings and the lower connection points for the hub assembly.

How do I get that nut out? The shaft is in the way.

BTW: I have both back tires off the ground. (front hub nut is off)


Take a look at the pics:

2011-11-05131357.jpg

2011-11-05131333.jpg
 
Found my answer. Just as I suspected. The write-up is wrong.

DONE! Rented a 10" jaw gear puller (2/3 jaw gear puller 10" 5 Ton- $45.00) from Autozone. Got the gear puller tight but the hub would not pop loose so hit the end and tightened some more. It never did pop off but fought me every centimeter until it was loose.

Once the hub was free was able to push the half shaft back into the diff enough and lift it enought to give the last 50 Torx bolt room to come out.

The key to this job is to free the hub from the axle first then go after the 2nd 50 Torx bolt.
Click to expand...
 
Push the axle inboard as hard as you can to allow more room to clear the torx bolt.. You will still have to tug pry and wiggle to get clear of it, but it will get by.
 
It's kinda a 2 man job... Remove the bolt for the upper arm, lean the spindle out while someone removes the axle from the hub then that bolt will come out
 
So the driveshaft is pushed inside the knuckle/bearing? Ok... guess I'm off to autozone to get a 5 ton claw-arm thing.
 
Sorry for being so descriptive here guys. Just don't want to be banging/pulling in the wrong direction and :q:q:q:q something up. (even though I think I get the jist).

I'm pushing the axle inside the knuckle here right. So with the gear-puller's I'd grab the circle/knuckle and push the center (axle) through.

2011-11-05134745.jpg
 
So this guy:

DONE! Rented a 10" jaw gear puller (2/3 jaw gear puller 10" 5 Ton- $45.00) from Autozone. Got the gear puller tight but the hub would not pop loose so hit the end and tightened some more. It never did pop off but fought me every centimeter until it was loose.

Once the hub was free was able to push the half shaft back into the diff enough and lift it enought to give the last 50 Torx bolt room to come out.
Click to expand...

Is saying he did this:

2011-11-05141146.jpg


The half shaft being what's coming through the hub and the diff is where the two shafts meet?

I didn't know the diff would allow the rod to come into it like that. See I can understand this working if all the bolts were off but with the bolts in I'm wondering where the inch of slack is coming from.
 
No, just lean the knuckle outward, whilst pushing the axle inward, you gotta hold your mouth right...you do not need any sort of "puller"

Remove the bolt in the upper arm to knuckle!

There's no way in hell you'll get that axle out of the hub without removing the upper arm...ain't happenin, unless you cut the axle in half

Nor will you push that axle into the Diff anymore than it already is, unless youve got about 5-10 tons of hydraulic force in your arm
 
Done that. But the axle doesn't budge. At ALL.

And what I mean by that is the thing in the center there. Think it's called the half shaft, and goes through the hub... does not go in AT ALL. I'm also assuming the diff is the thing with all the rubber around it right behind the knuckle. But I could be wrong about that.


Edit: It sound like this guy had the exact same problem. I don't know what it looks like under that rubber stuff but he states that he 'freed' the hub and was then able to push the half-shaft in and take the knuckle off.

DONE! Rented a 10" jaw gear puller (2/3 jaw gear puller 10" 5 Ton- $45.00) from Autozone. Got the gear puller tight but the hub would not pop loose so hit the end and tightened some more. It never did pop off but fought me every centimeter until it was loose.

Once the hub was free was able to push the half shaft back into the diff enough and lift it enought to give the last 50 Torx bolt room to come out.

The key to this job is to free the hub from the axle first then go after the 2nd 50 Torx bolt.

IMHO the tech bullitan should recommend this step as outlined above for those whose hub is hard to romove.

Thanks for all of your communications. Alone in my garage yesterday I was wondering how much it would cost to have the tow truck hook me up. To be able to get on the Mark Viii website and have good answers within hours is fantastic. Thank you again!
Click to expand...

I'm just trying to confirm that I've interpreted his post correctly with you guys. (because I'm not too familiar with where the differential, half shaft, hub is and how they all piece together.)

Not trying to be difficult just trying to figure this out without breaking anything.

edit:

I assumed what this guy is saying.

You need to put a puller on the wheel hub in order to free up the axle shaft in the assembly. You place the puller on the hub like you are pulling the hub but really you are pushing the axle shaft back a little just so its free and the whole assembly can be taken off rear knuckle and all.
Once the assembly is off the car you have to put the puller on the rear knuckle and that will separate the hub from the knuckle and bearing.
Click to expand...

but they are just not coming off. I might need a shop to do it. I could cut that nut a bit and get it off like I've read but I'd still need to pop that thing off the car which i can't do in the first place. Even with the gear pullers.
 
Someone correct me if I am wrong here please but is the hub not pressed into the bearing so the whole knuckle has to come out?

Myco, the diff is where the half shaft ends. The axel is in the diff so you trying to pull the hub off using the puller levered against your half shaft can possible cause extreme damage.

The other post you are reading is that the top bolt of the knuckle has been removed and he is swinging the knuckle with hub in it down. REMOVE the toop bolt and then use the puller.
 
LSC HUNTER said:
Someone correct me if I am wrong here please but is the hub not pressed into the bearing so the whole knuckle has to come out?

Myco, the diff is where the half shaft ends. The axel is in the diff so you trying to pull the hub off using the puller levered against your half shaft can possible cause extreme damage.

The other post you are reading is that the top bolt of the knuckle has been removed and he is swinging the knuckle with hub in it down. REMOVE the toop bolt and then use the puller.
Click to expand...

Yea, for safety I did that. Just so not to cause damage if what you said was the case. Still the thing did not budge. I'm going to let it sit over night and try again. can't hurt as the shop is closed tomorrow anyway. ;)

Thank you so much for your post. This was exactly the question I was wondering.

I was using a 24" breaker bar on the puller trying to get that thing off btw.
 
I have seen half-shafts and hubs so rusted together that they won't come apart, that may be your issue. If it is, then the only solution is another knuckle/hub/halfshaft.

However, try these steps before you give up.

1. Spray PB Blaster, or something like it, onto the splines where the hub and half-shaft meet.

2. Wait a couple of hours for the PB Blaster to soak in and pray!

3. Remove the upper control arm bolt at the top of the knuckle.

4. Then try the three-jaw puller to see if you can press the half-shaft in.
 
you can grind away part of the bolt head to provide clearance. Of course you will want to replace it and it is a discontinued bolt.

It is a PIA, but the bolt will come out by manipulating the knuckle and half shaft. i did it by myself, but it will help if there is another person. One to push ont he bolt and one ot manipulate the knuckle.
 
LSC HUNTER said:
Someone correct me if I am wrong here please but is the hub not pressed into the bearing so the whole knuckle has to come out?

Myco, the diff is where the half shaft ends. The axel is in the diff so you trying to pull the hub off using the puller levered against your half shaft can possible cause extreme damage.

The other post you are reading is that the top bolt of the knuckle has been removed and he is swinging the knuckle with hub in it down. REMOVE the toop bolt and then use the puller.
Click to expand...

The bearing in pressed into the knuckle. The hub is pressed into the bearing. The half shaft slips into the hub.
 
DLF said:
I have seen half-shafts and hubs so rusted together that they won't come apart, that may be your issue. If it is, then the only solution is another knuckle/hub/halfshaft.

However, try these steps before you give up.

1. Spray PB Blaster, or something like it, onto the splines where the hub and half-shaft meet.

2. Wait a couple of hours for the PB Blaster to soak in and pray!

3. Remove the upper control arm bolt at the top of the knuckle.

4. Then try the three-jaw puller to see if you can press the half-shaft in.
Click to expand...

I don't seem to remember you having that Avatar before. :squint:
 
DLF said:
It's the only one that I've ever had here.... ;)
Click to expand...

The way I look at it. If I buy a new half shaft, knuckle, and hub for both sides it will prob. be cheaper than towing it to a shop and having them do this. In which case I might have to buy them anyway.

Guess I'll start looking on ebay for knuckles and half-shafts.
 
Jebus... that's 500$ in parts for something I thought would cost 100$ :( Plus I hope I didn't screw up the diff. banging on that thing. I figure since the hub never went anywhere I'm good but I pounded on it a bit when the top bolt was in. :( That was before I got too paranoid about that 'might not be the right way'. I doubt any damage was done but with this car.... I've had really bad luck.
 
PLus I've never taken the back diff apart or looked at ANY writ-up's. CHRIST! Ugh... (know of any?) :D
 
Myco said:
Jebus... that's 500$ in parts for something I thought would cost 100$ :( Plus I hope I didn't screw up the diff. banging on that thing. I figure since the hub never went anywhere I'm good but I pounded on it a bit when the top bolt was in. :( That was before I got too paranoid about that 'might not be the right way'. I doubt any damage was done but with this car.... I've had really bad luck.
Click to expand...

Well, those are all new parts, you can probably find used parts for less.

Myco said:
PLus I've never taken the back diff apart or looked at ANY writ-up's. CHRIST! Ugh... (know of any?) :D
Click to expand...

You're really not up to working on the differential, leave that to an expert. ;)
 
Myco said:
PLus I've never taken the back diff apart or looked at ANY writ-up's. CHRIST! Ugh... (know of any?) :D
Click to expand...

having done a rear end, its complex. and on the whole, cheaper to have it done for you.
all the tools and down time well get to you in the pocket book.
 
Still can't get it off. Waiting for a friend to come over so I can put more torque on the breaker bar. :(
 
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