Another Bushing Thread

jmtiseo

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First post so go easy on me, I spent a lot of time on f150 forums until I got my LS.

The front lower control arm bushings are cracked and shot, the clunking has gotten worse in the past month and I'm looking to replace. My searches on the forums for the past two days say to go to energy suspension after measuring. My problem, I don't have a garage, a junkyard nearby, or a caliper to measure.

Does anyone know the size, part number, or suggestions, on getting these replaced? I saw this after going through a thread and checking this site out.

Tasca Parts - Lower Control Arm Bushings

I bought the car used and ideally I'd like to have all the bushings in the front end replaced at the same time since it seems like a big job for anyone, might as well knock em all out at once.

Thanks in advance.
 
I found some information on the subject here: http://www.jaguarforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=34593

The control arms are the same across a few Jaguar models, including the S-Type up to '02, and the LS across all years, but don't quote me on this.

Rockauto.com has some front control arm bushings available for the 99-02 S-Type, which should fit the LS, provided that in fact the control arms are of the same design.

I personally haven't looked into the front arms, but the rears do not have any "official" bushings available, though the link above provides some replacement parts that should also fit the LS. If the rears fit, so should the fronts?

You could start by taking the wheel off and visually comparing them with the offerings on Rockauto.
 
Ok this is a start. Like I said it's difficult to do this for me since I'm a college guy away from home. I only get about a week here at the beginning of August before I start my co-op to be home to work on it so I'm trying to line parts up to tackle this job if possible during that week.

Any input is a step forward. I don't want to drop 3-400 a piece for each control arm. If I do end up doing that I'm waiting till it gets worse than what it is.
 
So after a look at rockauto comparing the 02 s-type control arms to mine, pictures anyway, they look relatively similar. So within the next week or so I will look to purchase these bushings, allowing me time to further look into. This is definitely a huge help and was expecting someone to jump on hear yelling search search search search. When I go through with this in the beginning of August I'll see if I can post some pics or something. I'm noob to this site but I'll see what happens.

Been reading there's a lot of you on here that seem to know there stuff. Makes for a great read and I'm really excited for things I want to do in the upcoming months. But first things first to handle this clunking sound.

Thanks again.
 
So after a look at rockauto comparing the 02 s-type control arms to mine, pictures anyway, they look relatively similar. So within the next week or so I will look to purchase these bushings, allowing me time to further look into. This is definitely a huge help and was expecting someone to jump on hear yelling search search search search. When I go through with this in the beginning of August I'll see if I can post some pics or something. I'm noob to this site but I'll see what happens.

Been reading there's a lot of you on here that seem to know there stuff. Makes for a great read and I'm really excited for things I want to do in the upcoming months. But first things first to handle this clunking sound.

Thanks again.

You could always look at the universal kits from energy suspension. Not sure how much I like the idea but it might work. My concern would be making sure you have enough contact are between the bushing and control arm so you don't end up with stress issues. Plus there's always the problem with the width on the bushing sitting in the saddle right to keep the arm from sliding around. Be nice if you could get some custom bushings made up.
 
I've read about people suggesting the universal kits from there but I haven't come across a thread where someone said they did it. Like I mentioned before I don't have the time, space, or tools at the moment to do this. It's my only car so I can't have that much down time.

Has anyone on here used the universal kits from energy suspension?
 
Actually no one that I know of has used the universal kit. Actually there is no kit made for the LS. They are just bushings of various sizes. This has been talked about a lot in the past but no one has really done it that I know of. You would have to tear down your suspension an measure the bushing of each component that you are trying to replace and try to find one that's the same size or closer. I have air tools in my garage and need to replace the rear end links and toe links.
 
If I had a second vehicle, my own garage I'd be down for more projects, unfortunately a college student right now. Dad was a mechanic so all the tools at home would make this much easier. I don't see this being something I can do out in the parking lot.

For now, It looks like for about 100 bucks from rockauto.com I could do the lower control arm bushings from an 02 Jag s-type, assuming they are the same size. When I can, I'm going to order these, then when I tear into it just simply compare them before I install.
 
Well gang I took the plunge and have all the parts, well almost all of them.

From rockauto.com I have the following:

  • Lemforder Lower control arm bushing, front and rear, part #'s 2978501 and 2978301.

These are for an 02' Jag S-Type, and from what I can conclude I have a 50/50 chance it working, either they do or they don't right? So why not. Once I get them I'll do a quick look to see how they compare. Unfortunately, I got the last one of the front bushings they offered.

While I'm home I'll be replacing my spark plugs, end links, and fuel filter. Hoping to accomplish all of this in about two days work time. I'm excited yet not too optimistic, but I'm hoping this works.

About 300 in parts for plugs, bushings, end links, and fuel filter. Not bad if it works considering the bloody control arms are each more than that.

Just keeping a log of this process in case some chap like myself would like to do it later.
 
Keep us posted on your outcome. I'm going to purchase a caliper tool and try to measure the bushings in the suspension when I do my springs and see where I can go from there.
 
Same here, I figure the worst that can come out of this is that they don't work, won't return because I'll pay just as much to return them as I would to keep them, but I'll be able to get the dimension on the bushing if I choose to go energy suspension or something else.

Then again if this becomes the worst project ever, I'm just throwing on the MOOG's once the money comes, just hope my car isn't down too long, got a new job lined up in August.

I went to the extent to order the part from a Jaguar dealer, only problem is that it cost more, no return policy since it was special order. The guy was surprised at the situation, Jag having the individual bushings compared to Ford/Lincoln only selling them with the control arm. Also, learned that Jag parts dept. much more helpful than those at the Ford dealer.

I'll try posting pics as I go.
 
Thank you for trying things out! Let us know how it goes.

As for the rear lower arms, they seem to use two (or maybe even three) different bushing types. The front bushing is a standard rubber piece that has to be cut out in order to be replaced. The rear bushing is different, referred to as a "ball joint type" bushing by some. It has two rubber boots surrounding it, similar to the toe links. Those CAN be replaced, but a replacement has to be ordered from a UK manufacturer here. If and when it finally fails on me, I will phone them up and inquire about the replacement. For now, it's not a guarantee that it fits the LS. The third bushing that holds the knuckle, I haven't looked at.
 
I thought my rear diff was leaking when I first got the car, coming from my f-150 I thought, oh easy fix take the cover off, take out a couple clips slide out the shafts, replace seals. After I crawled under there I'm just going to say that I have a spare seal still wrapped up in a box in my trunk. That rear suspension is menacing to me, I'm new to this car but I feel some bonding time here in the upcoming months. It looked as if to do any diff work, the entire rear assy had to be dropped.

Completely unrelated to your rear control arm bushing post but that's my impression of the rear suspension. Hope to have no problems with that for quite some time.
 
Update:

Received the bushings via Fed-Ex yesterday. Needless to say that I am not returning nor using them. This brings good and bad news.

Good news - rockauto.com has fast shipping from Great Britain for almost $40, I believe I ordered it late Wednesday night/Thursday morning. It was delivered Monday morning,'

Bad news - despite the fast shipping, it took me just a few minutes to realize that this thing is not going to work. From what I see the bushing itself is the size of the control surrounding the broken bushing. If that makes sense, if not, the bloody thing is bigger than the one I'm replacing. I'm almost 100% positive that it is but I won't know for sure until I get under there to take a look.

It costs me just as much to ship it back so it looks like I'll be putting some money down for some Moog lower control arms here in a couple weeks or months.

Will keep yall posted. One thing for sure, when I get around to tackling this, you can bet your a55 that I'm measuring those bushings for future reference.
 
That's no good. I wonder though, you listed P/Ns 2978501 and 2978301, while RockAuto shows 2978501 and 2978401. Was it a typo in your post?

Edit: According to RockAuto, Lemforder lists the same front and rear control arm P/Ns for the Jag and LS for ALL arms. I would have a closer look at them.
 
I ordered the last 301 that they had, I figured that it would be the more expensive one out of the 3 that I was looking for. Should have went the cheaper route first. It will cost me more to ship back than the parts w/ shipping were worth in the first place. I think I might just place the order with a jag dealer back home and have my bro pick it up. By it's all said and done, I'm going to spend more money looking for the replacements that actually replacing it with new control arms.

I'm going to give Jaguar of Troy a call and ask them. Or I'm going to wait and take a caliper to them when I do get home. Or I'll try and snag one from work here before the weeks end.
 
jmtiseo,

First off it looks like you're in Romeo, MI so we're neighbors.

I just bought new tires for my '02 LS Sport with 105K miles. The tire store told me I had 4 bent rims and that I'd probably get vibration at highway speeds. This actually didn't surprise me because the last time I bought tires I had two bent rims which I replaced with a couple out of an OEM set I got cheap ($820 each at dealer) on EBAY. I now believe that the factory rims are too weak ( 8 bent rims, come on!) as I'm the only driver of the car and I know I've never hit any severe potholes....but that's a whole different story. Anyway, I also just bought a new set of rims because the vibration drives me nuts. While the new rims eliminated most of the vibration I still get steering wheel vibration at 60 to 70 mph. After some research I believe it's the control arm bushings because I've replaced most everything else in the front suspension.

I did read somewhere else that the Jag S-Type bushing will work on the LS. I think maybe the Rock Auto part numbers are wrong because if you look at the picture of the Jag wishbone on the link that was posted earlier on this thread, it looks nothing like the LS Lower C.A. The bushing on Rock Auto look like those on the Jag exploded view and they both show three required where as the LS only has two. The complete Lower C.A. shown on Rock Auto is correct for the LS so I'm wondering if the bushing listed are for another model year. If I were you I would challenge Rock Auto and see if they will refund including shipping.

So I'm wondering if you ever found anything out at the Jag dealer? It's nuts that you have to buy the whole control arm but I think it's because the bushings need to be pressed in. I just replaced the ball joint with the MOOG aftermarket and while that was a lot of work with the right tool it's not too hard. I did try to find universal fit from Energy Suspension but I think that's somewhat of a crapshoot as well. I'll keep researching and let you know if I find anything.

By the way, anyone interested in a slightly bent set of factory rims?:p
 
Have you looked into having your damaged wheels repaired? I have used:
Weldcraft
734 779 1303

KS
 
Have you looked into having your damaged wheels repaired? I have used:
Weldcraft
734 779 1303

KS
I guess I didn't think repair was possible. They aren't visually bent but the tire store could see runout when they were balancing them.

I looked at Weldcraft, looks like they do major repair. These just need minor straightening somehow.

How much did they charge you?
 
@brewurown they are not hard to check. If you crawl under there you will see a crack going around the rubber in the bushing. I'm pretty sure that the bushing I have is just too big.

The part in the link posted above is the same part that I have, I'm just waiting to see if it works. The front lowers require 2 bushings where the rear lower requires 3 from what I saw in the picture. If it does work I'll be exuberant, but I'm not holding my breathe with it. If it doesn't I'm probably going to install parts from Ford with a killer discount my brother, dad, and mom get through a dealer my dad did a lot of business with back in the day. Should have an update here on Sunday, car will be up on Jack stands all week, give me some time to maybe polish and wax it as I wait for parts.

Pics will be on the way as well. While I'm there I'm taking measurements because I'm sure someone out there who has done this and didn't take the measurements, or didn't share.

Updates soon.
 
Update is in, and it is not good for anyone with similar problems.

The total bill came out to $1285 including (25% off parts from Ford):

Upper and lower control arms right and left.
Caster camber alignment kits
Full alignment

The Jag S-type bushing I purchased was much too large. It would have been hell trying to press out or in too. It's not a straight bushing and it has a bubble in the center. Some sort of lead. The job to replace the above parts for a noob took about 15 hours. Some of the bolts are stubborn to get too. Only problem is that I broke a strut stud putting back together. To sum up the process of the job, everything on each side gets taken out except for the sway bar.

Anyone looking to find bushings to replace I took measurements of the lead on the bushing in the control arms I replaced. The diameter of the lead is 2.75". The bushing off the S-type had an increase of .05" from the lead to the center of the bushing to get that press fit, so I assume to get a tight fitting bushing look for one in the 2.80" range. I'm no expert but this is my finding.

My symptoms:
Creaking/crackling when putsing around town, not really noticed on the highway, just when front suspension was flexed at low speeds.
Same creaking/crackling sound when braking.

Diagnosis:
Front Lower control arm bushings cracked causing unwanted suspension movement and flex. The creaking/crackling was the rubber griding/moving. When braking the suspension was flexing more than it should have been.

Fix:
I replaced the lower control arms, however if someone was willing to do so, try pressing out bushings and replace with 2.8" bushing from Energy Suspension if they make them.
Get car aligned and hold on to your butt.

What I've noticed:
Creaking/crackling "almost eliminated"
Much tighter in cars lateral movements
Peace of mind knowing what's under there

Suggestions:
Aerokroil, PB Blaster, some sort of pentrating oil to help with stubborn bolts.
Metric, every nut and bolt is metric (7mm-24mm) would cover you for this project.
Small hands to get the rear upper control arm nuts off if you are going to replace them.
Patience
Removing/loosening the steering rack to give clearance for front lower control arm rear bolts is needed.
Ratcheting open end and box wrenches would have made this easier.

Future concerns:
It seems as if bushings are not sold, or for that matter any part that is pressed into another for the part. I figured while I had both sides apart to do the lower ball joints. The lower ball joints from Ford need to be bought with the steering knuckle. List price for these are well over $300, not cool. Moog sells the lower ball joint, but only if you buy the Moog lower control arm it fits in. These are all serviceable parts and they do that to screw the consumer.

If you experience the same problems, share your story, this was quite the adventure. It steers like new and I quote my brother in my concern if this happened to the rear end "It will almost steer like day one, if there's a problem in the rear, just drag it around till it falls off"

New thread coming soon, I gave her a spa treatment. Wetsanding, polishing, wax, the works.
 
jimtiseo,

Wow...that's a pretty good chunk of change just for bad bushings. Seems like a real waste when all the control arms are still good parts. Makes you wonder what Ford (or Jag) was thinking. If these cars were sold at higher volumes you know some aftermarket bushings would be available. There probably just isn't enough money in it for them.

My problem is just a slight vibration at highway speeds. Since I have new rims and tires I'm pretty sure it's the bushings however mine are not cracked. I'm still convinced that the the Jag dealer has the bushings. One day when I get motivated I'll stop at the dealer and check it out.

One thing I must correct you on is the Moog replacement lower ball joints. They do fit the Ford OEM knuckle because I just replaced mine. It wasn't that hard. Basically remove the brakes and rotors, remove the wheel bearing, unbolt and separate the ball joint from the lower control arm, swing the knuckle out and press the old bearing out with the knuckle still on the car. You can borrow the bearing press tool from any part store such as Advance Auto for a fully returnable deposit. Since you don't remove the lower control arm or the tie rods you don't need another alignment.

I've also replaced the struts using a cheap spring compressor tool I got from Harbor Freight and the sway bar bushing with Energy Suspension. I'm with you on the rear suspension...at these prices I wouldn't touch it until something breaks!

Thanks for the measurements on the bushings. I may just give the Jag dealer a call tomorrow.
 
Okay, so Monday I'm measuring every bushing needed in the front and rear suspension. Tie rods, ball joints, controls arms front, upper and lower, and rear. I spent about thirty minutes on the phone with energy suspension, and am convinced a set can be made by grouping a bunch of universals together.

Let ya know what's up Monday.
 
@brewurown,

I was hoping to be able to sell the control arms at a ridiculous price and listing with them that the bushings are cracked but to be quite honest they could have been driven on for quite a while longer. Would of had to watch your alignment a little more but I couldn't stand the sound of them.

It's bittersweet, I like how this car isn't the most common thing on the road but at the same time I wish it were so it had the aftermarket like the Mustang or F-150 for example. I know it's not a car but it's the best selling truck for how many years now?

The Jag dealer does have the bushings but it was better at the time to purchase them from RockAuto. Jag dealers are hard to come by here in Indiana and the one I called, which I assume would be the one you call, (Jaguar of Troy) would of had to order it and if it didn't work you couldn't return it because it was special order. But it never hurts to try again right?

By no means am I worried about lower ball joints at the moment but thanks for clarifying that they do fit. I wasn't willing to take the gamble on another $160 in parts if I'm not mistaken from what I remember from RockAuto. Been down that road when I did the upper and lowers on my F150 that I wish I never sold.

I wanted to do the sway bar bushings but I heard they were difficult since they were molded to the sway bar itself. How did you go about doing that? Sizes on the sway bar bushings?
 
@lsdarkshadow

Keep us updated. If a list of all the parts from energy suspension can be compiled I'm sure it will be very helpful down the road. I went to the extent of calling Moog and seeing if they event offered replacement bushings for their control arms to no avail. If I had a second car and my own place this thing would have been garaged and done much better, spending less money.

Good luck.
 

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