Eibach/Intrax

[Kumba]

Ok, so yes, I should know these things and do it myself is even better. But I hate dealing with springs.

About how long should it take a shop to swap the OE springs for intrax/eibach springs? Keep in mind they'll probably pull out some shop manual that says how long. No super-mechanics will be around to do it in 30 minutes. Looking for a realistic number is all.

It is an '06 Sport V8.

Thanks for the help.

 

[mlara1129]

unless you already have them, you wont find intrax springs.

If you take your car to a reputable shop, it should really take about an hour, maybe a bit more.

I did fronts myself, i'm a full time student so i ran out of time to do the rear and took my car to a shop. Took them about 20 minutes.

 

[Bullschmidt]

It's going to be much cheaper to do them yourself. Shops will try to charge a pretty penny.

Find a friend, some air tools and rent a spring compressor.

 

[mlara1129]

yup forgot to recommend that, the owner of the shop i go to is my friend so i got it done pretty cheap too but i wouldn't recommend going to a shop otherwise.

 

[1LoudLS]

well it depends, are you taking the shocks out and taking them to the shop, if so about 30 mins, if you are taking the car to them for the whole job probably around an hour or two

 

[Kumba]

I was planning to bring them the car and springs and have them call me when it was done. So if I plan 2-hours of shop time as a worse case scenario I should be good is what I'm gathering.

As far as doing the job in general I am familiar with it, just not sure how crazy the LS' set-up is. I still have yet to even slide under this thing and look. The real problem is I no longer have the space to do it and I refuse to work in the sun on blacktop in Florida with summer getting closer. Nothing like burning the piss out of your hand when trying to pick up the damn ratchet after it's been laying down for 5 minutes. Call me a wimp

I'm just thinking of a few things to make the car more fun at the SCCA Solo2 events. Not really to compete but just to maybe make a few people take a second glance at a decent lap time. And yes, I am working on fixing the driver too! Just need more seat time. Good summer tires and brakes are already on the list. From what I gathered on this forum performance lowering springs seemed to be about the best bang for the buck with the least amount of headache/guesswork after that.

Thanks for the input, I appreciate it.

 

[PMJJ]

personally I would purchase the Eibachs. I have Intrax, yes there lower but the ride quality sucks. And I've spent numerous hrs on the alignment machine modifying the A-arm mounts to get the -2 degree camber out that the springs put in.

 

[Kumba]

personally I would purchase the Eibachs. I have Intrax, yes there lower but the ride quality sucks. And I've spent numerous hrs on the alignment machine modifying the A-arm mounts to get the -2 degree camber out that the springs put in.

Well the good news (or bad) is that it looks like I can't get them unless I get them used. That and the car already has problems with bottoming out on speed bumps with the stock spring. Eibach's seem like the better fit now for various reasons.

Is there any room in the stock set-up to get the camber back to 0 with eibach springs? Or would it be within tolerance and just left alone?

 

[LS4me]

Well the good news (or bad) is that it looks like I can't get them unless I get them used. That and the car already has problems with bottoming out on speed bumps with the stock spring. Eibach's seem like the better fit now for various reasons.

Is there any room in the stock set-up to get the camber back to 0 with eibach springs? Or would it be within tolerance and just left alone?

Not in the stock set-up. You will need the camber bolts. The rear isn't adjustable and there is NO WAY I would mess with modifying the aluminum control arm!

 

[Kumba]

Not in the stock set-up. You will need the camber bolts. The rear isn't adjustable and there is NO WAY I would mess with modifying the aluminum control arm!

Guess I'll just buy Eibach's camber bolt set for the rears when I get the springs then and call it a day.

 

[The Hotness]

personally I would purchase the Eibachs. I have Intrax, yes there lower but the ride quality sucks. And I've spent numerous hrs on the alignment machine modifying the A-arm mounts to get the -2 degree camber out that the springs put in.

I had no difference in ride quality, and -2* camber is actually not all the undesirable for corners. Camber bolts, I think, should get you where you want to be.

 

[Kumba]

I had no difference in ride quality, and -2* camber is actually not all the undesirable for corners. Camber bolts, I think, should get you where you want to be.

My plan is for it to be my daily driver with maybe once a month Solo2 events. So with that in mind, I'll just get the camber bolts for all 4 corners and have them installed with the springs. Worse case scenario, I can always have it adjusted back out if I want later.

 

[PMJJ]

I had no difference in ride quality, and -2* camber is actually not all the undesirable for corners. Camber bolts, I think, should get you where you want to be.

-2* was awesome in the corners till the inside edges of the tires got worn off after 1 summer.

 

[The Hotness]

My plan is for it to be my daily driver with maybe once a month Solo2 events. So with that in mind, I'll just get the camber bolts for all 4 corners and have them installed with the springs. Worse case scenario, I can always have it adjusted back out if I want later.

TRUTH!

-2* was awesome in the corners till the inside edges of the tires got worn off after 1 summer.

TRUTH! My cheap Z-rated discount tires have lasted 2 1/2 years now. but the inside wear is terrible!

My alignment guru was the one whom told me about the camber. He told me that -2 was a bit much, but preferred 1-1.5 degrees. Meh. He's a suspension specialist for the solo-x'rs and like. (Ie. three week wait to see him, he did both of my cars.)

Well enough random..

 

[PMJJ]

Not in the stock set-up. You will need the camber bolts. The rear isn't adjustable and there is NO WAY I would mess with modifying the aluminum control arm!

The slot were the arm bolt adjusts from the factory in the sub-frame is actually what is modified. You detach and pull the arm down, then elongated the hole inward more so the arm will move in, thus allowing more positve camber. Then take an alingment shim from another vehicle and cut it to fit in the slot on the subframe were the arm bolts up, this will prevent the arm bolt from naturally wanting to move back out under full suspension load.

 

[LS4me]

The slot were the arm bolt adjusts from the factory in the sub-frame is actually what is modified. You detach and pull the arm down, then elongated the hole inward more so the arm will move in, thus allowing more positve camber. Then take an alingment shim from another vehicle and cut it to fit in the slot on the subframe were the arm bolts up, this will prevent the arm bolt from naturally wanting to move back out under full suspension load.

Right. I would NEVER mess with a cast aluminum piece. All you need in elongating the hole is to catch a void and the arm will fail.