led rear taillights

OchoMarko said:
Man, that is a great price, I wonder how reliable they are. They do have a really good rating so they must be pretty good.
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I've saved sooo much money buying straight from china. The only problem is it takes a week or 2 to get it...And if its a higher priced item the whole return shipping if its doa..I usually dont buy the more expensive things overseas.
But for little things its well worth it if your not in a rush. Such as misc comp,camera,mp3 cables,usb's ect..Lighting,ect
 
let me know how these work, where are you gonna put these? in the tail lights? are these direct plug ins
 
well im hopeing someone has tried it before i get them..But yea, they will go all around the car..Maybe just the rear and front signals, the 194's go for $1 each..idk yet..Im not gunna waste money if i'll get the messege.

And if i do get the messege is there a wire i could cut for the ext light messege? much like the one for the air ride ect.
 
My HIDs made my check Ext Lighting come on...if I turn the regular lights on before I start the car the msg won't come on,
so I need to cut the message wire too
 
somebody has to know of a wire to cut. that way i could get them either way.
 
if i just do the rear turn signals will all the rest of the reg bulbs compensate for the leds?


I mean, i can get the 5 turn signals/3rd brake light for the front and rear and 5 194's for f-r and lp light for like 20 dollars shipped..Since its not my money i might take the risk..If anything i could just resell them.
 
I've got LED tail lights on my '96 and the are super cool. But yes, the check exterior lights warning will come on. There's a thread on here somewhere that tells you which wire to cut. I've got to do it one of these days.
 
I'm not an electronics expert, so I can only point you in the right direction. I don't know anything beyond this...

LEDs draw much less current than an incandescent bulb. I'm pretty sure our flashers are thermal, which involves a metal contact that heats up and cools off repeatedly, causing it to cycle on and off. With an LED "bulb" in the circuit, there is less resistance in the circuit, so the contact heats up quicker and the flasher flashes faster (say that three times fast). Same thing happens if the regular bulb burns out.

The "bulb out" test also wants to "see" a specific resistance in the circuit. Again, the LED has less resistance and will cause the warning to come on.

The solution is to wire a resistor of the correct Ohms and wattage in parallel with the bulb. I have no clue what the correct value is, but there are simple formulas for determining resistance in a circuit. You'd just need to measure the resistance of the original bulb and subtract the resistance of the LED "bulb" and use the formula to determine what resistor you need.

There are also companies that sell inline resistors for this purpose. Here's one I just found with a search. I have no idea of their quality:

http://www.v-leds.com/BlinkerWarning-Fix/c132273/

Much better than cutting the wires permanently IMO.
 
Something else to consider when substituting LEDs for regular bulbs is that LEDs are very directional. They tend to only emit light in a straight "cone" out their ends. They give off little to no light around the sides. That's why on so many new cars that use LEDs for brake lights, they use a bunch of LEDs in an array. For example, Cadillac tail lights.

Replacing a regular bulb with a single LED would give you a little pinpoint of light that wouldn't fill up the reflector much at all.

Most of the LED "bulb" replacements try to get around that by clustering a bunch of LEDs around a central "hub" so they're pointing in all directions. I can't comment on them because I've never seen them in use, but it's something to think about.
 
i'm beginning to sway away for cutting the wire just so i can have rear leds..They do look cool esp w/ the neon..i might not do it..And i'd hate turning off the chk ext bulbs everytime i turn on the car. And i like my car to tell me a bulbs really out.
 
Marcus said:
Something else to consider when substituting LEDs for regular bulbs is that LEDs are very directional. They tend to only emit light in a straight "cone" out their ends. They give off little to no light around the sides. That's why on so many new cars that use LEDs for brake lights, they use a bunch of LEDs in an array. For example, Cadillac tail lights.

Replacing a regular bulb with a single LED would give you a little pinpoint of light that wouldn't fill up the reflector much at all.

Most of the LED "bulb" replacements try to get around that by clustering a bunch of LEDs around a central "hub" so they're pointing in all directions. I can't comment on them because I've never seen them in use, but it's something to think about.
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yeah, i was thinking since the front signals lights are covered by that cone that covers the bulb they might not work well up front.
 
Marcus said:
I'm not an electronics expert, so I can only point you in the right direction. I don't know anything beyond this...

LEDs draw much less current than an incandescent bulb. I'm pretty sure our flashers are thermal, which involves a metal contact that heats up and cools off repeatedly, causing it to cycle on and off. With an LED "bulb" in the circuit, there is less resistance in the circuit, so the contact heats up quicker and the flasher flashes faster (say that three times fast). Same thing happens if the regular bulb burns out.

The "bulb out" test also wants to "see" a specific resistance in the circuit. Again, the LED has less resistance and will cause the warning to come on.

The solution is to wire a resistor of the correct Ohms and wattage in parallel with the bulb. I have no clue what the correct value is, but there are simple formulas for determining resistance in a circuit. You'd just need to measure the resistance of the original bulb and subtract the resistance of the LED "bulb" and use the formula to determine what resistor you need.

There are also companies that sell inline resistors for this purpose. Here's one I just found with a search. I have no idea of their quality:

http://www.v-leds.com/BlinkerWarning-Fix/c132273/

Much better than cutting the wires permanently IMO.
Click to expand...

Yep. LED"s take much less current to turn on. But in the case of the Mark VIII, we have digital flasher units under the dash. So the blinkers won't flash any faster than a regular incandescent bulb. The reason the "check exterior lights" warning comes on is because the system thinks it has a burnt out bulb because the LED's take so little current.
 
I'm totally scrapping this idea now... Thats for all the help though guys.
 
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