Difficult to Replace Brake Pads?

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Eurythmian

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I know, I know... stupid question!
But I have never done it before or seen it done. Every place I call to get a price quote, wants $300.00 and up - and I think that's a bit much. I have a friend who keeps telling me I can do it myself... but I'm worried that I will get it torn apart and screw it up. I need you guys to walk me thru this...

How to photos would be awesome!
I only need to do the front pads.

Thanks for the help.
 
Well if your Gen 2 is anything like my Gen 1, then it's only 1 bolt to take out after you get the wheel off. Leave the top bolt in and rotate the caliper up, take out the old pads, loosen the bleeder screw, take a C clamp and compress the piston back in and put the new pads in. Reassemble with new pads and you're done. Should take less than 30 mins to change both sides.
 
SlickLS said:
Well if your Gen 2 is anything like my Gen 1, then it's only 1 bolt to take out after you get the wheel off. Leave the top bolt in and rotate the caliper up, take out the old pads, loosen the bleeder screw, take a C clamp and compress the piston back in and put the new pads in. Reassemble with new pads and you're done. Should take less than 30 mins to change both sides.
Click to expand...

You can't use a C-clamp on the rear pistons.
 
Eurythmian said:
I know, I know... stupid question!
But I have never done it before or seen it done. Every place I call to get a price quote, wants $300.00 and up - and I think that's a bit much. I have a friend who keeps telling me I can do it myself... but I'm worried that I will get it torn apart and screw it up. I need you guys to walk me thru this...

How to photos would be awesome!
I only need to do the front pads.

Thanks for the help.
Click to expand...

It's easy if you have the right tools and know what you are doing. I strongly recommend that you not do this alone if you have never worked on brakes before. Get someone who has to help you.
You will need something like this for the rear brakes.
http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/itemdisplay/displayItem.do?itemid=40732
 
Thanks for your help... just planning to do my front brakes at this point. If all goes well I will tackle the back. I have read enough on the web about the rear brakes to know they take a bit more work to do. And the fact I need to get this special tool to compress the caliper.

Thanks again for your help. If anyone has any more advise or photo on replacing pads, feel free to post. I can use all the help I can get.
 
joegr said:
You can't use a C-clamp on the rear pistons.
Click to expand...

I know that, but he said that he was only doing the front so I told him how to do the front. I've changed the back and it's easy also, as long as you have that tool. Autozone rents it out.
 
SlickLS said:
I know that, but he said that he was only doing the front so I told him how to do the front. I've changed the back and it's easy also, as long as you have that tool. Autozone rents it out.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I didn't notice the comment about the front only.
So far, my brake wear has been close enough to need to do the front and back at the same time.
 
Don't mess with the bleeder screw. Just loosen the brake fluid reservoir. I remove both bolts. IIRC, it takes a 12mm wrench. Don't forget the shims or copper grease on the back of the pads where they contact the caliper to stop squealing.
 
It's not too bad, I did it and I'm not very mechanically inclined. I rarely do any work on the car myself.
I second the recommendation to get the rear caliper tool. It makes the job a lot easier. (i first tried pliers and a clamp but it was very difficult)
 
Eurythmian said:
Thanks for your help... just planning to do my front brakes at this point.
Click to expand...

Due to the LSes brake distribution the rears wear out as fast, sometimes faster, as the front. The hardest part about the rears is (after you purchase the tool) getting the piston to start turning. Once the piston gets moving it's relatively easy. That tool is indispensable. Don't cheap out and get that universal cube tool.
 
more

you can rent for free at autozone or other parts places, you need the tool for the rear, yes do not remove of loosen bleeder screw, just loosen cap on brake fluid reservoir in engine bay. remember to retighten the cap1
 
Thanks guys... perfect instruction after watching a video on line as well.
I'm no longer worried about screwing this up.:)
 
and yes, please do yourself a favor and don't ever mess with the bleeder screw unless you want to have to bleed the air out of the lines, u don't need to loosen the bleeder screw to compress the calipers.
 
jcharb said:
and yes, please do yourself a favor and don't ever mess with the bleeder screw unless you want to have to bleed the air out of the lines, u don't need to loosen the bleeder screw to compress the calipers.
Click to expand...

Well I always do and have never had a problem.
 
Got the front finished last night in about 45 minutes... took my time to ensure I didn't miss anything and everything got cleaned.

Steps for Replacing Front Brake Pads.

Loosen lug nuts.
Raise the car with floor jack.
Remove the wheel.
Raise the hood and remove the cap to the brake fluid reservoir.
Place shop towels under the reservoir for fluid over flow when you compress the piston.
Loosen the bottom bolt on the caliper.
Leave the top bolt in place.
Rotate the caliper up.
Use a heavy wire to suspend the caliper ensuring brake lines are not pinched or damaged in anyway.
Use C-clamp to compress the piston back.
Remove the old pads and metal plates (if new were supplied).
Using brake parts cleaner - clean everything.
Replace the metal plates with new (if supplied).
Put goo on the outer side of the new pads.
Put new pads in place.
Reassemble ensuring everything is tightened.
Replace wheel.
Repeat on other side.

Once both sides are finished.
Remove shop towel from brake fluid reservoir and replace cap.
Start the engine and pump brakes slowly until they feel right.
Drive car slowly stop frequently.
Complete.

Ready to do the rear brakes...

This may be helpful: http://images.harborfreight.com/manu...0999/40732.PDF
 
Last edited:
Loosen lug nuts. - I prefer to just rip them off
Raise the car with floor jack. - I have two midgets who do that for me.
Remove the wheel. - Easier to change brake pads with the wheel still on the hub.
Raise the hood and remove the cap to the brake fluid reservoir. - Don't forget the discombobulator cap.
Place shop towels under the reservoir for fluid over flow when you compress the piston. - Which one? There are 6 pistons in the motor.
Loosen the bottom bolt on the caliper. - What if the bottom "nut" is sane?
Leave the top bolt in place. - But that's kinda discriminatory, don't you think?
Rotate the caliper up. - I got nothing...
Use a heavy wire to suspend the caliper ensuring brake lines are not pinched or damaged in anyway. - Duct tape and bubble gum work better.
Use C-clamp to compress the piston back. - If C clamp is not available use 20lb sledge hammer.
Remove the old pads and metal plates (if new were supplied). - But I like the old pads! They've proven themselves! I don't know what kind of slackers the new pads are!
Using brake parts cleaner - clean everything. - I tried that. But for some reason brake cleaner and lather don't go together. Now, after cleaning everything, the interior smells like brake cleaner.
Replace the metal plates with new (if supplied). - What do I do if they are not supplied?
Put goo on the outer side of the new pads. - Ahhh... goo... I knew I shouldn't have gone to the bathroom with that new Hustler issue...
Put new pads in place. - If they don't go into place, beat them into submission.
Reassemble ensuring everything is tightened. - Wait... EVERYTHING?
Replace wheel. - Never took the wheel off, remember?
Repeat on other side. - Now I have to go to the restroom again?!


:D
 
SlickLS said:
Well I always do and have never had a problem.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I'm a bit traditional too. I always bleed out enough to change out most of the brake fluid. I think it's a good idea to replace the brake fluid every time you change out the pads. I found out the hard way on a Grand Marquis once that some kind of gunk can from in the brake fluid and cause troubles with the ABS pump.
 
Someone told me another trick instead of completely bleeding or draining fluid (if you want to put new clean fluid) is to use a turkey baster and suck all the old fluid out of the reservoir and put it in a container to discard. Then fill up the reservoir with new fluid. After a day or two of driving, repeat if your fluid was really bad. This is a way to get around having to drain and messing with bleeder screws and getting air in the lines.
 
Eurythmian said:
Someone told me another trick instead of completely bleeding or draining fluid (if you want to put new clean fluid) is to use a turkey baster and suck all the old fluid out of the reservoir and put it in a container to discard. Then fill up the reservoir with new fluid. After a day or two of driving, repeat if your fluid was really bad. This is a way to get around having to drain and messing with bleeder screws and getting air in the lines.
Click to expand...

That trick insures that the brake fluid in the lines and in the calipers (where it counts the most) will never get changed. (A little of the fluid goes back and forth into and out of the master cylinder, but most of it never does.)
 
Guys, a good brake fluid flusher is only about 50 bucks. Why mess around with turkey basters? Look into an EMotive brake flusher. If you need a place to buy it for about 50 bucks, let me know.

It will make your life a he'll of a lot easier and you can do a complete system flush in about 15 minutes by yourself.
 
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