zmt325
Dedicated LVC Member
i just cried a little after reading that
spring conversion for the track
- Thread starter zmt325
- Start date
zmt325
Dedicated LVC Member
zmt325
Dedicated LVC Member
are intrax junk i cant find anything on them
zmt325
Dedicated LVC Member
can we use the stuff for a supercoupe with the electronic suspension? that is the only 5way adjustable shock strutt combo that i can find through tokico.
zmt325
Dedicated LVC Member
i bought some stuff
I jumped in head first today.
i got the tokico blues
2'' drop springs by intrax (the guy said they were stiffer than the h&r's
shipping and all i spent $450
jmod kit all new actuators springs and a drilled plate,seals,filter all that jaz.
and he happened to have the front addco bar 1 1/4
all shipped $195
the rear issolators and purches $60
total so far $705
I still need
a rear addco bar
and the upper strutt assy. any cheap adj ones out there
edit
i recently discovered that you dont need adjustable strutt tower mounts. as the entire front suspension (camber and caster) is entierly adjustable stock.
i am starting to like this car more and more.i can only imagine how much more i will like it when i can drive it.
I jumped in head first today.
i got the tokico blues
2'' drop springs by intrax (the guy said they were stiffer than the h&r's
shipping and all i spent $450
jmod kit all new actuators springs and a drilled plate,seals,filter all that jaz.
and he happened to have the front addco bar 1 1/4
all shipped $195
the rear issolators and purches $60
total so far $705
I still need
a rear addco bar
and the upper strutt assy. any cheap adj ones out there
edit
i recently discovered that you dont need adjustable strutt tower mounts. as the entire front suspension (camber and caster) is entierly adjustable stock.
i am starting to like this car more and more.i can only imagine how much more i will like it when i can drive it.
zmt325
Dedicated LVC Member
cool links i found while searching this stuff out
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/products.asp?cat=Ford+Thunderbird+1996 thanks to dlf for this one they will carry all the little rubber pcs
http://agsupplyonline.com/.sc/ms/cat/Hardware--Double Split Set Collars 2 pc ss or aluminum lock collars for my front swat bar
and this shows tokico fitment and part #s
http://www.nolimitmotorsport.com/tokico/page10.html
http://www.tccoa.com/lots of cool stuff for sale and info on our chassi
http://supercoupeperformance.com/ another good one
from what i read if you want ese of installation customer svc and stock like ride eddie is the man http://www.americanairsuspension.com/HISTORY OF AMERICAN AIR SUSPENSION.htm i spoke with him for like 30 min. super cool guy kinda felt bad not buying anything. after all i have read you should put a super coupe or addco bar on in addition of his kit if you like to drive a little sporty. eddie is perfect for any novice.
but if you decide to do it your self.
coil over set up is the best and most adjustable option. it takes some serious change $$$$ like $2000 and a fair ammount of fab work and tuning on your part. there is a guy real close to me that had done a set on a tbird with someone who is no longer in biz. he just did fronts it cost him a little over $500 with bound rebound and height adjustment. if i could have found them I may have eaten ramen for a month and gone with 1 3/8 addco bars the widest tire possable and rocked it
most people go this route.
you will need a shock/strutt setup for 89-97 tbird
koni 5way adjustable is the best money can buy about $500 before shipping tokico makes a set of 5ways but it says its for the s/c with electronic adjustable suspension
bilsene no longer accepts money from tbird/mk8 guys these were my favorite on the bmw's
so i went with tokico blues aka tokico hp's thy are valved properly for lowered sport minded applications and about half the cost of the koni's
everything else i found was basicly a stock replacement part
ok so springs must be for a 89-97 tbird
votland i think is the most used springs on these cars and good quality no personal experence so no comment
h&r's are probably the best all arround sport spring for ride and performance spring i would have bought them if i didn't find this ebay deal. i ran there h&r cups for the e30 and loved the stance and performance wasent to harsh iether considering how stiff thoes cars are stock
eibach in my honest opinion are a little chitty ran them on an e30 for like 6mo.
to soft body rolled more than my factory 15+ yr old bmw sport springs
Now as for these intrax from what i have heard first hand iether you love them or you hate them they are the lowest spring offerd for our car. they are built properly and supposedly the stiffest option
a couple more options and facts
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2409731030078405175amxmIP
you will need the front upper strutt assembly i am still researching this
rear spring purches
if i was made of money or worried about ride quality i would have bought these http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=62875
but i something off an old kit i may go this route in a week or 2 if i dont like what i bought http://www.stockcarproducts.com/susp28.htm
you will want a set of these http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=9.6116
i am planning some chassi stiffining and this is a nice thing to get an idea for what people have done. http://www.tccoa.com/articles/kenny-brown/ i was told that this is a oooollllldddd link but it gives you an idea what you can do.
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/products.asp?cat=Ford+Thunderbird+1996 thanks to dlf for this one they will carry all the little rubber pcs
http://agsupplyonline.com/.sc/ms/cat/Hardware--Double Split Set Collars 2 pc ss or aluminum lock collars for my front swat bar
and this shows tokico fitment and part #s
http://www.nolimitmotorsport.com/tokico/page10.html
http://www.tccoa.com/lots of cool stuff for sale and info on our chassi
http://supercoupeperformance.com/ another good one
from what i read if you want ese of installation customer svc and stock like ride eddie is the man http://www.americanairsuspension.com/HISTORY OF AMERICAN AIR SUSPENSION.htm i spoke with him for like 30 min. super cool guy kinda felt bad not buying anything. after all i have read you should put a super coupe or addco bar on in addition of his kit if you like to drive a little sporty. eddie is perfect for any novice.
but if you decide to do it your self.
coil over set up is the best and most adjustable option. it takes some serious change $$$$ like $2000 and a fair ammount of fab work and tuning on your part. there is a guy real close to me that had done a set on a tbird with someone who is no longer in biz. he just did fronts it cost him a little over $500 with bound rebound and height adjustment. if i could have found them I may have eaten ramen for a month and gone with 1 3/8 addco bars the widest tire possable and rocked it
most people go this route.
you will need a shock/strutt setup for 89-97 tbird
koni 5way adjustable is the best money can buy about $500 before shipping tokico makes a set of 5ways but it says its for the s/c with electronic adjustable suspension
bilsene no longer accepts money from tbird/mk8 guys these were my favorite on the bmw's
so i went with tokico blues aka tokico hp's thy are valved properly for lowered sport minded applications and about half the cost of the koni's
everything else i found was basicly a stock replacement part
ok so springs must be for a 89-97 tbird
votland i think is the most used springs on these cars and good quality no personal experence so no comment
h&r's are probably the best all arround sport spring for ride and performance spring i would have bought them if i didn't find this ebay deal. i ran there h&r cups for the e30 and loved the stance and performance wasent to harsh iether considering how stiff thoes cars are stock
eibach in my honest opinion are a little chitty ran them on an e30 for like 6mo.
to soft body rolled more than my factory 15+ yr old bmw sport springs
Now as for these intrax from what i have heard first hand iether you love them or you hate them they are the lowest spring offerd for our car. they are built properly and supposedly the stiffest option
a couple more options and facts
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2409731030078405175amxmIP
you will need the front upper strutt assembly i am still researching this
rear spring purches
if i was made of money or worried about ride quality i would have bought these http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=62875
but i something off an old kit i may go this route in a week or 2 if i dont like what i bought http://www.stockcarproducts.com/susp28.htm
you will want a set of these http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=9.6116
i am planning some chassi stiffining and this is a nice thing to get an idea for what people have done. http://www.tccoa.com/articles/kenny-brown/ i was told that this is a oooollllldddd link but it gives you an idea what you can do.
zmt325
Dedicated LVC Member
!!!!!look what i got!!!!!
even has the tbird stuff so i can torch my rear shock mount and install
even has the tbird stuff so i can torch my rear shock mount and install
zmt325
Dedicated LVC Member
Look at this shaaaat!!!!
I want to start by saying i am not dogging the seller at all. this pc is exactly how he described and It shipped quickly he is a great seller.. it was the first pc i bought, i was over excited about the project, and only payed $35. i thought i scored. note to self. allways ask for pics. But what i am about to burn RRRREEEEEAAAALLLL HARD
!!! is whoever he got these things from. he bought these as a part of a kit by a "reputable source". whatever jackass douch bag retard thinks that this will safely seat a spring in an almost 5000 lb. car you sir should be shot for endangering people's lives. and should go ahead and STOP BUILDING THINGS AT ALL. i mean WTF you are going to kill someone. seriously i just bent it with my hand 
GO FLIP BURGERS YOU RETARD!!!! If the person who made this reads this (wich he probably wont) please justify your actions...
not a total loss these look like decent quality supressors.
on a much brighter note there was a mix up on my tracking #'s from some pcs i had bought from http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/ i made 2 orders. recived the latter order first. so i go to check status on the first order. it has the same tracking # listed as the one i recived.. so i go to call them no# just an email. so i think i am going to be put on the bottom of some calling list in india and called by the same guy that desighned the above part. now keep in mind the missing order was for only like $35. and it is good fri. kinda a holliday. i recived an email first thing in the morning by a guy just to let me know there on it. and that he would go outta his way and call the shipping departmant in cali. and have me an answer. and by noon i had a proper tracking# and the parts had allready been shipped.
at the end of this day (i feel like dougie houser md.) i have learned 2 things. allways get pics of what your buying. and when you need any type of suspension bushing you can count on http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/
I want to start by saying i am not dogging the seller at all. this pc is exactly how he described and It shipped quickly he is a great seller.. it was the first pc i bought, i was over excited about the project, and only payed $35. i thought i scored. note to self. allways ask for pics. But what i am about to burn RRRREEEEEAAAALLLL HARD
!!! is whoever he got these things from. he bought these as a part of a kit by a "reputable source". whatever jackass douch bag retard thinks that this will safely seat a spring in an almost 5000 lb. car you sir should be shot for endangering people's lives. and should go ahead and STOP BUILDING THINGS AT ALL. i mean WTF you are going to kill someone. seriously i just bent it with my hand GO FLIP BURGERS YOU RETARD!!!! If the person who made this reads this (wich he probably wont) please justify your actions...not a total loss these look like decent quality supressors.
on a much brighter note there was a mix up on my tracking #'s from some pcs i had bought from http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/ i made 2 orders. recived the latter order first. so i go to check status on the first order. it has the same tracking # listed as the one i recived.
. so i go to call them no# just an email. so i think i am going to be put on the bottom of some calling list in india and called by the same guy that desighned the above part. now keep in mind the missing order was for only like $35. and it is good fri. kinda a holliday. i recived an email first thing in the morning by a guy just to let me know there on it. and that he would go outta his way and call the shipping departmant in cali. and have me an answer. and by noon i had a proper tracking# and the parts had allready been shipped.at the end of this day (i feel like dougie houser md.) i have learned 2 things. allways get pics of what your buying. and when you need any type of suspension bushing you can count on http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/
DLF
Dedicated LVC Member
That kind of crap is exactly why people asked me to make them the UHMW spring perches. 
And those isolators look like they're made for springs that are flat on each end, which the T-Bird rear springs aren't. Take a look at Prothane p/n 6-1709, they are what you need.
Here's are pictures of the Prothane isolator, you can see the depression for the coil end at 3 O'clock in the first pic and 9 O'Clock in the second.
The other two pics show how much the spring can move around without some kind of lower perch.
And those isolators look like they're made for springs that are flat on each end, which the T-Bird rear springs aren't. Take a look at Prothane p/n 6-1709, they are what you need.
Here's are pictures of the Prothane isolator, you can see the depression for the coil end at 3 O'clock in the first pic and 9 O'Clock in the second.
The other two pics show how much the spring can move around without some kind of lower perch.
Lownslowlsc
Dedicated LVC Member
i sold you those so i'll take full resposeability....Thats what i got from him and i have seen some of them on ebay with the same perch...Thought it was just a diff kind. My buddy and i tried both and they were fine we just decided to go with the other set..
after pp and shipping i only got 19 for the mounts and bushings...now im stuck with a pair of springs that have nowhere to go...
reguardless, you were a very nice guy on the phone...i tried to describe them to the best of my abilities.
after pp and shipping i only got 19 for the mounts and bushings...now im stuck with a pair of springs that have nowhere to go...
reguardless, you were a very nice guy on the phone...i tried to describe them to the best of my abilities.
zmt325
Dedicated LVC Member
Thank you and sorry
I wish i could afford your stuff. i am not a rich man by any means. i would really like to try out this material your using UHMW. i had never heard of delrin untill i came to this cite. you have been the only real help with this build that i have recived so far. so last night i did a search of your user name. i came across a few pics of your shop and car. you are living the dream man. and your not affraid to lend a hand. thoes 2 things are hard to find in a person.
so thanks for the help and keep doin what ur doin cause thats how u roll.
now that i am done with the brown noseing
i need some help on sway bars. i have purchased a 1 1/4 addco sway bar for the front. heck of a deal. and was thinking of going with the same in the rear. then i found an 89 s/c that someone is parting i think i read the bar is like 1.10 or 1.08 in dia. my experence told me that would be the bar. sutch a small diffrence in sway bar dia that it would not upset the balance ,it would compensate for all that huncin dohc up front (understeer), and not make the back like a rock (oversteer) but if thats the case why is everyone going with just the rear bar? am i missing something? am i ignorant? if you think i am please let me know what i am missing out on
remember my goal is for this car to take corners with an m5. with 100 shot i think i can get him in the straights. and yes i do know this car weighs allmost 4k lbs 3750 was the number i got off wiki. the 2000 m5 tipped the scales at 4026 curb weight it has about 100 more hp.
I wish i could afford your stuff. i am not a rich man by any means. i would really like to try out this material your using UHMW. i had never heard of delrin untill i came to this cite. you have been the only real help with this build that i have recived so far. so last night i did a search of your user name. i came across a few pics of your shop and car. you are living the dream man. and your not affraid to lend a hand. thoes 2 things are hard to find in a person.
so thanks for the help and keep doin what ur doin cause thats how u roll.
now that i am done with the brown noseing
i need some help on sway bars. i have purchased a 1 1/4 addco sway bar for the front. heck of a deal. and was thinking of going with the same in the rear. then i found an 89 s/c that someone is parting i think i read the bar is like 1.10 or 1.08 in dia. my experence told me that would be the bar. sutch a small diffrence in sway bar dia that it would not upset the balance ,it would compensate for all that huncin dohc up front (understeer), and not make the back like a rock (oversteer) but if thats the case why is everyone going with just the rear bar? am i missing something? am i ignorant? if you think i am please let me know what i am missing out on
remember my goal is for this car to take corners with an m5. with 100 shot i think i can get him in the straights. and yes i do know this car weighs allmost 4k lbs 3750 was the number i got off wiki. the 2000 m5 tipped the scales at 4026 curb weight it has about 100 more hp.
That kind of crap is exactly why people asked me to make them the UHMW spring perches.
And those isolators look like they're made for springs that are flat on each end, which the T-Bird rear springs aren't. Take a look at Prothane p/n 6-1709, they are what you need.
DLF
Dedicated LVC Member
My LSC weighs 3,980 lbs. with me in it (~200 lbs.).
Get a matching ADDCO 1 1/4" rear bar. I have both F&R, and it's nicely balanced. You generally can't compare sizes of bars by different manufacturers, due to differences in material.
The MN-12/FN-10 platform understeers (a lot) from the factory, which is why some people just add a rear bar. That, and the front is not very easy to change.
zmt325
Dedicated LVC Member
not your fault your ok by me
like i said you did nothing wrong and everything wright. i have no beef with you i know u got the short end of the stick.my beef is with the guy building this shaaaaaat. i kinda bought them for something to get an idea of what the replacement stuff was. and allow for the springs to settle for a week of driving. now after seeing them. i may put them in there for about 15 min to get an idea of what it will sit like. i have read these intrax sag in the back.
in order to get the ride height right i will just have to preload the sus which i was going to do anyways. before tightining everything so i can get it right. measure the diff and leave .1-.2 to allow for the much longer fronts to settle
like i said you did nothing wrong and everything wright. i have no beef with you i know u got the short end of the stick.my beef is with the guy building this shaaaaaat. i kinda bought them for something to get an idea of what the replacement stuff was. and allow for the springs to settle for a week of driving. now after seeing them. i may put them in there for about 15 min to get an idea of what it will sit like. i have read these intrax sag in the back.
in order to get the ride height right i will just have to preload the sus which i was going to do anyways. before tightining everything so i can get it right. measure the diff and leave .1-.2 to allow for the much longer fronts to settle
zmt325
Dedicated LVC Member
mfg and age. i agree. do you know anyone who has offset the bars with any sucess this thing is like 70%-40% F-R isint it? putting the same size bars just dosent make any sense to me. with the stiff ass springs i am worried i will be back in the same oversteering boat. and agian i ask am i ignorant to something here. or just plain stupid? i think a small diference will help to balance that a very small amount. i feel that i should have gone with 1-3/8 but everybody sayed that they were just to much.
and i got this bar for like $50+shiping
looking back they may have only been talking about the rear bar. i wish i could use this one out back and a 1 3/8 up front.
DLF
Dedicated LVC Member
Don't get hung up on the fact that the bars are the same diameter. The ends of the bars are different lengths, very short in the back and longer in the front. The geometry of the F&R suspensions is also quite different.
Some of us having been running matched sets of ADDCO bars for over a decade (1 3/8" F&R in my SC).
Just get the 1 1/4" rear bar.
zmt325
Dedicated LVC Member
tyvm
thank you thats what i wanted to read and back in the mkt. for an 1 1/4 addco only the hardest one to find used :dancefool
for some reason when people buy the rear 1-1/4 they put them on AND keep them
Don't get hung up on the fact that the bars are the same diameter. The ends of the bars are different lengths, very short in the back and longer in the front. The geometry of the F&R suspensions is also quite different.
Some of us having been running matched sets of ADDCO bars for over a decade (1 3/8" F&R in my SC).
Just get the 1 1/4" rear bar.
thank you thats what i wanted to read and back in the mkt. for an 1 1/4 addco only the hardest one to find used :dancefool
for some reason when people buy the rear 1-1/4 they put them on AND keep them
Quite honestly I used some center caps with a bolt through the middle ot seat the springs i have. It made a little noise but it worked out fine until I found a legit spring perch off a strutmasters conversion. i also used the prothane spring cups and have a pair I no longer need.
I think you're well on your way to making a very well handling mark. I think your next step should be purchasing some bracing for the front and rear. Also, look into the idea of subframe connectors. Increasing chassis rigidity certainly helps!
Also, if you are interested in my 1 3/8 bar I am putting up a FS ad for it soon, as well as a fully set up 3.73 pumpkin with a trac-loc installed.
I think you're well on your way to making a very well handling mark. I think your next step should be purchasing some bracing for the front and rear. Also, look into the idea of subframe connectors. Increasing chassis rigidity certainly helps!
Also, if you are interested in my 1 3/8 bar I am putting up a FS ad for it soon, as well as a fully set up 3.73 pumpkin with a trac-loc installed.
zmt325
Dedicated LVC Member
i pmed you about the bar once allready. i would like to know what you would take for all of it 3.73 and front bar. i might just sell this 1-1/4 bar i bought and go 1-3/8s
i am running low on car funds so i am parting this out i put a 4.10 lsd in it wonder if i can some how weld it in lol jk
zmt325
Dedicated LVC Member
o yeah i may have scored a 3.73trac loc diff complete with 2000 mi on it an a 1 3/8 rear bar might just sell the 1 1/4 front and go 1 3/8 all arround
zmt325
Dedicated LVC Member
another pacage arrived
i feel like bret favre by saying this but i have decide %100 to go with 1.25 barz. i just heard a story of a guys windshield cracking with 1 3/8. hey the energy has to go smewhere.
jmod and front bar are here
i am going to a shop some time today to get the spring compressed onto the strutt today. i should have the front complely dissasembled tonight. now all i need is to figure this rear spring purch thing. and spend $200 i dont have anymore on a rear 1 1/4 addco bar.
i feel like bret favre by saying this but i have decide %100 to go with 1.25 barz. i just heard a story of a guys windshield cracking with 1 3/8. hey the energy has to go smewhere.
jmod and front bar are here
i am going to a shop some time today to get the spring compressed onto the strutt today. i should have the front complely dissasembled tonight. now all i need is to figure this rear spring purch thing. and spend $200 i dont have anymore on a rear 1 1/4 addco bar.
zmt325
Dedicated LVC Member
i did it
so i had enough time to put the springs/strutts on today. and so far i only have one complaint. the back sags bad.
I may have to suck it up and just buy dlf's delrin stuff. $300 is allllloooot of money to me right now.
I finaly got to give it a little hell today. damn this thing will haul balls! i only put about 5 mi on it before i did the swap as there was no air in the bags what so ever. i was afraid i would break something with no air.
the swap is a cake walk. you must source a wall mounted spring compressor. and if they can get it close you can put an extention through bottom of the strutt and get it perfect. i do not suggest any more than 10 deg of adjustment this way. and note which way the spring is seated in the strutt. i would not recomend turning it away from the bottom seat. the shop i used had the pass side hat 180 off on one so i took it back and they fixed the problem.
durring the swap i discovered that on the upper and lower control arms all of the rubber boots arround all of the ball joints have been removed by mice. the front end is in need of some love. but there was no play. i also discoverd this car has been sitting since 05. i worked at an oil change place (way back in the day) and we would date the filters. the date is 09/05 on my filter but if i look at the oil on the dipstick it is clean,like new. dont worry it is getting a change tomorrow i am just saying thats kinda strange. maby all the carbon settled over time? idk
this mouse thing sucks. when i first got it it would not run. but after about 30 min of thinking and trouble shooting. i found the wires for the crank sensor had been removed down to the pladtic. and i could see little bite marks all over it. and i think i have discovered a fuel leak. god i hope i dont have to pull the tank!!!!!! I think the jbl system has also been tampered with by thoes little basterds. when i first tried it made a loud poping noise on one corner or "channel". now i get no radio sound but still with the poping.
tomorrow i plan to fix the fuel leak, find the amp and fix the jbl's, i also need to put the rear shocks on. the car was on a slight downhill angle and i thought it might be a bad idea to put my 300lb ass in the trunk. the stock ones are good but i think these tokico blues are better so they will be replaced tomorrow.
i am not looking forward to putting this front sway bar in looks like it is gonna suck. i will hold off until i can afford upper and lower controal arms. that way i can do motor mounts and all at the same time. strangely enough the mice left the tie rod ends alone.
but 
the jmod is going in this weekend. man i need to make some money!!! i reallly want a trak lok and 3.73s baaaaad after driving it today. i missed out on the one i found. he sold it the day i got the money together for it. but that is a good thing b/c i would be flat broke right now.
hope all that crap made sense. here are some pics. cause without pics it didn't happen
i forgot to add this is the most valuable thing whaen doing this
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/tech/lincoln-mark-viii/Coil-Spring-Conversion/index.htm
this pic exadurates the sag beacuse of the angle of the driveway but you get the idea
so i had enough time to put the springs/strutts on today. and so far i only have one complaint. the back sags bad.
I may have to suck it up and just buy dlf's delrin stuff. $300 is allllloooot of money to me right now.I finaly got to give it a little hell today. damn this thing will haul balls! i only put about 5 mi on it before i did the swap as there was no air in the bags what so ever. i was afraid i would break something with no air.
the swap is a cake walk. you must source a wall mounted spring compressor. and if they can get it close you can put an extention through bottom of the strutt and get it perfect. i do not suggest any more than 10 deg of adjustment this way. and note which way the spring is seated in the strutt. i would not recomend turning it away from the bottom seat. the shop i used had the pass side hat 180 off on one so i took it back and they fixed the problem.
durring the swap i discovered that on the upper and lower control arms all of the rubber boots arround all of the ball joints have been removed by mice. the front end is in need of some love. but there was no play. i also discoverd this car has been sitting since 05. i worked at an oil change place (way back in the day) and we would date the filters. the date is 09/05 on my filter but if i look at the oil on the dipstick it is clean,like new. dont worry it is getting a change tomorrow i am just saying thats kinda strange. maby all the carbon settled over time? idk
this mouse thing sucks. when i first got it it would not run. but after about 30 min of thinking and trouble shooting. i found the wires for the crank sensor had been removed down to the pladtic. and i could see little bite marks all over it. and i think i have discovered a fuel leak. god i hope i dont have to pull the tank
!!!!!! I think the jbl system has also been tampered with by thoes little basterds. when i first tried it made a loud poping noise on one corner or "channel". now i get no radio sound but still with the poping.tomorrow i plan to fix the fuel leak, find the amp and fix the jbl's, i also need to put the rear shocks on. the car was on a slight downhill angle and i thought it might be a bad idea to put my 300lb ass in the trunk. the stock ones are good but i think these tokico blues are better so they will be replaced tomorrow.
i am not looking forward to putting this front sway bar in looks like it is gonna suck. i will hold off until i can afford upper and lower controal arms. that way i can do motor mounts and all at the same time. strangely enough the mice left the tie rod ends alone.
but the jmod is going in this weekend. man i need to make some money!!! i reallly want a trak lok and 3.73s baaaaad after driving it today. i missed out on the one i found. he sold it the day i got the money together for it
. but that is a good thing b/c i would be flat broke right now.hope all that crap made sense. here are some pics. cause without pics it didn't happen
i forgot to add this is the most valuable thing whaen doing this
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/tech/lincoln-mark-viii/Coil-Spring-Conversion/index.htm
this pic exadurates the sag beacuse of the angle of the driveway but you get the idea
CobraStar_LS8
Dedicated LVC Member
i believe the rear wheel wells can also make it looks like it's sagging
but yours is alittle sagging
but yours is alittle sagging
DLF
Dedicated LVC Member
so i had enough time to put the springs/strutts on today. and so far i only have one complaint. the back sags bad.
IF you are happy with your upper mounts in the rear, and just want to correct the ride height, you can buy just a pair of lower mounts from me.
Just tell me how much you want to raise the rear, and I'll make up a custom lower set for $175 shipped. Are you using Prothane 6-1709 spring isolators?
UHMW, not Delrin, BTW.