03 cobra swap

I think phreakness has a better handle on it than the rest. Hotrodding and showcar-ing are in different leagues, even if Jeremi made a car look show quality without the frills.
 
Since my name is dragged into this thread so many times, might as well as add something to the fire ;)

Complete used 03 cobra motor is absolutely the cheapest and easiest route one you can take if
you want a blown, forged motor with a PD blower in a 2nd gen car.

YouTube- DSCF1876.AVI
 
Roadboss said:
"Just when you think you are out they drag you back in"!!!! LOL
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we keep a little gold chain around his testicles...when we need the great gazoo we just give the gold chain a little tug and WALA!
(LMAO)
 
I'm open to posting my total when I'm done, even if I get laughed at! :D

I really don't think I'll be too surprised. I think if I go over it's because I'll be going with some nicer parts than I need to.

So far I'm looking at 4 thousand for a forged teksid longblock including heads(which I don't need to pay somebody for and am choosing to out of laziness) and 3 grand for a whipple 2.3.
And I still have 3 grand to go, with a nice blower. 3 grand can go a long ways if you're smart!
 
I seriously hope you dont think I was trying to HELP that guy sell his car.

I couldn't give a ratsazz if that car SOLD, or rusted into the ground.. personally it matters not to me in the least.

I've steered a couple of prospective buyers towards it out of kindness, I dont have ANY vested interested in that car, the owner or it's sale.

Thanks for questioning my credibility and motives though, hopefully I can return the favor someday.
 
poniesviii said:
because I'm just gonna stfu
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that's a pretty good idea, your debating facts with people that have DONE the swap, they have posted their findings, their experience and the COST.

They have already traveled this path.
Once you have walked this path, then and ONLY then will you have anything useful or truthful to add to this thread.

As it stands, your just speculating...because you dont have a clue what the end total is gonna be

your adding up "big things" like a block and a blower, you have ignored the fact that the "little items" are gonna add up and EAT YOUR LUNCH.

Hell your gonna have OVER a grand invested in JUST getting the car TUNED and running properly.

If you think the mark 8 PCM is gonna have a CLUE what to do with BOOST.. you've got a HUGE eye opener waiting for you.. and maybe even a HUGE BLOCK OPENER.

since the headers alone cost 800.00 and you debated 1100.00 cost?
how much do you think it's gonna cost to have headers installed???

You really need to step back.. talk less and listen more.
 
And realizing how it would be taken is why I deleted it right away.

Fordnut had already hit the quote button.

Even if someone was trying to help sell the car, nobody's wrong about it being a decent deal. But arguing so heavily that it can't be duplicated for that sure gives the thought that it could be a motive.

Nothing against you, Tommy. We haven't met, and you don't seem like a bad guy. If you want to write me off over this, I guess it doesn't really matter.
 
poniesviii said:
3 grand can go a long ways if you're smart!
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that will BARELY cover the trans and convertor your gonna need... and it might not even fully cover it.

So you'll have a block and heads, a blower and a trans and converter..all laying in the garage floor... do you realize there is gonna be about 3K still left to spend..and that is "IF" you do "ALL" the work yourself.

Then...just for kicks, see how much Strictly Performance or ANY other dyno shop in houston is gonna charge you and HOW long they will want to charge you to TUNE the car?....4-5 hours of dyno time... is gonna eat your freaking LUNCH.
 
if I was gonna "write you off" I wouldn't be wasting my finger muscles typing in this thread...

I just dont understand how you can THINK you have it all figured out.. when Roadboss has spoonfed you 99% of the information that supports the entire cost of one of these builds.

Do you think he just threw a bunch of dollars that he didn't NEED to spend?
no, he spend ALL the money that meant he'd have a DEPENDABLE "end result"

notice those folks that have stopped posting in this thread... THEY have written you off.

I'm still trying to steer you in the right direction.

now if you want to WRITE ME OFF.. lemme know..and I'll just bow out of attempting to help you.
 
poniesviii said:
Tommy. We haven't met, and you don't seem like a bad guy.
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no I'm not a bad guy, I go well above and beyond to keep people from stepping in a PILE of dogcrap...which what your about to do.
your gonna ignore the warnings of people that have walked that path...they are telling you WATCH OUT, there's PILE OF DOG CRAP you dont see.
but your gonna waltz right thru those piles wearing your crocs...and it's all gonna come squishing up between your toes.

I AM an AZZhole, openly and freeling admitting it.
But being an AZZhole does not mean that I am wrong..

Seriously.. if you think your gonna make a car COMPARABLE to the one that is for sale for 15.5 for less..then I REALLY want some of what your smoking.

I dont doubt you can get a mark 8 blown and running for less, but.. it's days will be numbered the first day you turn the key...meaning you'll have to spend the same dollars again, to recover from your lack of insight and unwillingness to listen or ADMIT that someone else might KNOW more than you do.
 
XLRVIII said:
no I'm not a bad guy, I go well above and beyond to keep people from stepping in a PILE of dogcrap...which what your about to do.
Click to expand...

I can see this about you, and there's nothing wrong with it.



XLRVIII said:
I AM an AZZhole, openly and freeling admitting it.
But being an AZZhole does not mean that I am wrong..
Click to expand...

Very true.


XLRVIII said:
Seriously.. if you think your gonna make a car COMPARABLE to the one that is for sale for 15.5 for less..then I REALLY want some of what your smoking.

I dont doubt you can get a mark 8 blown and running for less, but.. it's days will be numbered the first day you turn the key...meaning you'll have to spend the same dollars again, to recover from your lack of insight and unwillingness to listen or ADMIT that someone else might KNOW more than you do.
Click to expand...

Well, we'll see. I've said many times I can be wrong. I also pointed out that Jeremi must be paying out the butt to build these cars and sell them if they can't be built for that. You must be overlooking any of that. And I've done my homework. My set up is proven to hold 600rwhp and still be reliable. Guys are pushing the envelope way more than I will be with my 500rwhp tune and still not having any problems.

If I mess up why should anybody else be mad?

Peace, man.
 
wow.... thats about all i can say. ha


i didnt know what all i was gettin myself into. there are quite a few expenses i didnt think about. i dont think i can justify that much money for this project idea.


so i guess untill i win the lottery i will just be doing little bolt on things. thanks for all the insight, there is alot of good information in this thread.
 
dont get me wrong, its a great idea.

just wanted to make sure you didn't dive in head first before checking the water depth.

start off with the bolt ons, as you said.
work on building the car to support your future plans, plan it well and you can do it.

start at the rear, and work your way forward
gears, convertor, trans, tuning..

you'll get far more bang for the buck, and enjoy your ride if you follow what i posted..

rather than having a buncha parts laying around...
 
after you got the above gears/tc/tune you could chunk a 100 shot on it and have close to the same output as a stock 03 cobra motor, and all the manners and economy of a near stock NA car.
 
ya i have 3.73's with limited slip waitin to be put in. and im looking to do the jmod/tranny cooler. i want to do the mild setting and leave the bottom 1-2 spring out and the 2-3 spring out.

next on the list is:

Kooks 3/4 length headers and full lms exhaust. no cats
sct chip
walbro 225 fuel pump
1 1/4 addco strut bars front and back from spinningwheels-sc
4" solid driveshaft - probably the dynotech
window tint
suspension conversion

the order of that list is always changing though. any suggestions as to what order that should be in? or other brands that would be better for me?
 
I would start with the window tint...that will make it scream. :)

+1 sct first.
Gears pump and shaft go together, all done at the same time.
You will want to go with a deeper gear.
4.10s are very street friendly.

Head hunter is a pefect example of a 11 sec car, but street ready.
 
seein how i already have the 3.73 i think i will use them. unless i can get a hell of a deal on some 4.10's

i was gonna get the chip first but i thought you had to get it reprogrammed when you add on other mods. i dont want to have to keep reprogramming it. or is it just a one time thing?


i'm also wanting to put a cobra intake on it but that wont be untill all the above listed mods are done. i want something shiny under the hood if i'm not supercharging it :)
 
evf4720 said:
ya i have 3.73's with limited slip waitin to be put in. and im looking to do the jmod/tranny cooler. i want to do the mild setting and leave the bottom 1-2 spring out and the 2-3 spring out.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't worry about going mild. I went big and took my 1-2 spring out and it shifts great. I don't get that neck snapping annoyance that most complain about, could be my tranny, but I like how it shifts. No matter what anyone says this isn't a luxury car anymore. It's a 12+ year old coupe that should be beat!! :D

next on the list is:

evf4720 said:
Kooks 3/4 length headers and full lms exhaust. no cats
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Factory 03-04 cobra exhaust manifolds breathe pretty good... good enough that those headers are pretty pointless. And over priced.


evf4720 said:
1 1/4 addco strut bars front and back from spinningwheels-sc
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I would go 1 3/8 rear and whatever the smallest is that's offered for the front since these cars understeer like they do. I think you would enjoy it more if you're actually going to drive it..

evf4720 said:
4" solid driveshaft - probably the dynotech
Click to expand...

I'd research beforehand. I'm wondering if they're not a waste of money. Never heard of a factory 1 piece having any problems in any application.. so maybe do some research and possibly save some cash. They sure don't come with any larger U joints. Almost sounds like a joke to me.

evf4720 said:
the order of that list is always changing though. any suggestions as to what order that should be in? or other brands that would be better for me?
Click to expand...

I second Tommy and Ford nut on the whole 'back forward'
 
ford nut said:
Head hunter is a pefect example of a 11 sec car, but street ready.
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That is where the OP should've asked himself first before posting, "What ETs am I looking for and what's the cheapest way to get there?"...

Is he lookin' to build a all out track car???, because the question he need to ask himself there is "Am I rich?"

I believe there is cheaper ways to have a 12 sec DD Mark than to do a 03/04 Cobra swap...
 
i mostly just want to have a nice, comfortable, luxury car that will beat all the local pos ricers. something to stand next to and say look what i did to my car. i dont like leaving anything stock.

i guess now im only going to shoot for 13's but 12's would really make my day. just whatever i can to with 3 or 4 grand for now. throwing up 500 or so a month here and there.
 
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